dan williams

Yeah sounds like a notched basket or something mechanical just ain't right. Time to disassemble and have an eyeball. Good luck.

I hate to say it but once something goes funny in the box it's in your best interest to open it up. First though pull off the side cover and check the shifter mechanism. You might get lucky and find the problem is there and not in the gearbox proper. At least I hope that's the case.

Look at the clutch fix pinned at top of Beta forum. Also dressing the steel plates with fine emory cloth may help as the steels get polished and can hydraulic lock (suction) if they are too smooth. You may also have a damaged plate. Sometimes the forged aluminum fiber plates crack.

So where is the Mecatechno already?

In this case, AND ONLY THIS CASE, "dampening" is allowed.

I've been wearing this rain jacket for a couple of weeks now and I have to confess I'm not impressed. Not only is it difficult to get on but it's uncomfortable and doesn't seem to keep the rain out at all. OK I just want to note that this is a joke. If you can't see the picture you can't see a picture of a spring for the jacket. I wouldn't want anyone to think I was serious. ?

Could be air leak. A friend's EVO blew out the case gasket below reed housing due to loose case bolt. Of course check timing and carb. Kehins are notorious for blockages in the piddly little bleed cirrcuit behind the slide.

Sounds good. Let us know when and where available. I'd like to get a look at these. Sherco guys would probably be interested too as they have similar plates and problems. Any more info? This guy posted once and disappeared.

Good for you clean. I'm definately getting older. I enjoy the ride but not so much the aftermath. Those foot cramps on the way home are killers.

You're right of course but I'm bad as far as flushing systems to change fluid anyway. I was surprised at just how stuck the original pistons were though and once the new ones were in the front brake is like buttah! Unfortunately the back is now sticking and I'm not looking forward to that rebuild.

Did mine not to long ago. Had to really work to get the old pucks out. Caliper showed the new ones were a few thousanths smaller. Cleaned the grooves and rebuilt the brake caliper with the new pistons. Now works perfect. When you rebuild it remove the caliper from the fork leg and pick it up by the bars, secure with a tie wrap then disconnect the banjo bolt. After rebuilding the caliper pour brake fluid into the banjo bolt hole to fill the caliper and attach the brake line. This makes the bleeding procedue much easier. Reattach to fork and bleed.

Kudos for the honest and civil discussion. Often a charter says one thing and the organization does another. Not from bad intent but from lack of money or just no one to carry the flag anymore. Getting the right people into the critical positions is key. Bringing in new people to learn from the old dogs is key. The other important piece is us old guys also have to learn to let go. Just like riding memory (the older I get the better I was) you have to let the new leaders sort it out.

Yeah same story here only many years ago, A buddy and I drove up to ride an ATAQ event in Quebec. Tough event, great organization and wonderful people. They used to come down here once in a while too but one club forgot to get insurance taken care of in time and the ATAQ guys were told, "Sorry but you can't ride." after a ten hour drive. They haven't been back since. Something a lot of New England guys still feel terrible about.

Excellent, that's why I've been on Beta's since '89. A company that admits a fault and steps up is worth ten companies that deny and obfuscate. A porous casting like you have is either defective or just waiting to be defective. Glad you got it resolved. Of course you will have work to do changing cylinders but you'll get a good look at the new one and that will help you trust it.

Canadians are so cute when they're angry Let's face it, the only reason most trials clubs associate with any bigger organization is to get insurance.

That cylinder is still suspect. Even a pinhole will cause problems. Tim should replace that cylinder. You will never trust it now. One of the things that has always been a benefit with Beta was their support when something wasn't quite right with a new bike. Sad if that has changed now.

Always bent. I'll go into detail why later. You want to always be centered unless you are doing a dynamic move. Weight on the outside peg is pointless as you have to compensate by weighting the inside bar. Now you have a twisting torque through your torso that requires muscle tension and limits your ability to balance and correct wheel deflections as well as adding fatigue. Most beginners make a common mistake. Coming from an enduro, MX or street background they are used to leaning with the bike. Instead of bending the outside knee and straightening the inside knee to compensate for the lean of the bike they straighten both legs and lean into a turn twisting their butt to the outside to compensate. That is why you almost always dab to the inside of a corner. The demo I give beginners is to stand on a slope perpandicular to the fall line. Most will fall into the natural stance with their uphill leg bent centered between their feet. I give them a push to show them how stable this is. I then ask them to straighten the uphill leg. The only way to compensate is to twist their torso causing the same butt counter weight they use on the bike. I can usually push them out of balance with one finger. You should bend your knees and absorb the motions of the bike with your legs while you stay stable above this moving platform. There is one other reason for bending the legs to get low on up and down hills. By lowering your center of gravity you are decreasing the leverage of your mass over the bike. Guys who flip over on climbs are always the guys standing straight up. If you get down low you can get your weight back over the rear wheel and you can crawl up stuff you wouldn't think possible. The conventioal wisdom is to throw your weight over the bars. This unweights the rear wheel causing spin. Make that mistake on a rooty hill climb and it's instant 5. One other tip is learn to dab while keeping weight on the back wheel. Normal reaction is to stab at the ground and stand on the dabbing leg. That instantly unweights the back wheel leading to spinning and a loss of momentum. Sag is not a good measure of set up on a trials bike. More important is how the bike reacts in the section and that depends on terrain and riding style. Softer and more compliant is always better as long as you're not bottoming out. Watch your tire pressure as new riders always overinflate and can't figure out why they can't get up stuff. Even the top guys will go down to 2.5-3 PSI in slippery stuff. Novice terrain is a lot easier on wheels so don't be afraid to drop pressure if you seem to get less traction than other riders. I should probably get back to work now. Second edit, I think I combined this with something I meant for another thread.

In New England there is an event series called jday. It is an enduro/hare scrambles series put on by a group headed by John Day. It is running on the same turf as NETRA. Regardless of any hurt feelings one way or the other the riders agree they are well run and fun. NESC split off from AMA sanctioning to run MX in New England. Ask yourself this, why has someone decided to split from CMA and run their own series? If WTC is serving some need in the trials community then either there is an excess of trials riders or you are not providing for your target population in the manner you espouse. At the point when they have more events and more riders in more places then the CMA they truly do have a national championship no matter who has blessed your organization. You may be forced at some time to work with them for the better of the sport. Years ago ATV riders were looked down upon by the majority of dirt riders here. There was pressure to shun and ban them as they were the minority. As their numbers grew and they started feeling their political power roles reversed and it's now ATV riders who get land access by promising to not allow dirt bikes. Be careful who you pee on the way up as they will remember you on your way down. I only ask that you try to make the positive choice Steve and realize it isn't who wins or loses but how can we keep playing the game.

Let it go Steve. Nobody outside of Canada cares. I suspect very few inside of Canada care. Anybody wishing to go through the hassle of setting up an event, no matter what they call themselves, is doing a good thing. Unless they're doing something that makes trials look bad in the public eye then what they call their championship is no big whoop. "Like two fleas arguing over who owns the dog they're on." Crocodile Dundee

The guys here in New England who have them seem quite happy. Only questions seem to be clutch pull and I know the factory is working on options to program pull and engagement.

Is your preload backed all the way off on both ends? Are you using a low pressure tire gauge. Got Michelin? Is your damping backed off? Does your buddie have a flywheel weight on his bike? Fast or slow throttle tube? With the stock spring you shouldn't have any more difficulty finding traction than your buddy at your weight. Setup is more likely the issue as much of the weighting that sticks the wheel in slippery terrain comes from leg extension. Are there specific things you are having problems with?

The plastic fork seal tools are actually 1 5/8 inner diameter and 18 inches long. Comes in handy 10 ft lengths.

Yup, there's the standard Beta ones and the new SKF ones that are a little shorter for the dust cap. The SKFs I put in a friend's bike tended to pop the dust cap out of the fork leg until they settled in. You will need a fork seal tool. Easy to make out of a length of PVC pipe. There's lots of information on this forum on changing fork seals. The Paioli forks on your Beta are the same as the forks on the Shercos of the same vintage and there is excellent instruction on those forks if you do a bit of searching. Most disconcerting is taking the fork legs off after the bottom bolt is removed and the circlip above the seal is removed. To pop the seal out and remove the bottom part of the leg you treat it like a slide hammer pulling the slider down from the stanchion tube to pop the seal out. Do this with the fork still in the triple clamps. To seat the seals you remove the stanchion from the triple clamp, slide the seals onto the stanchion and insert the stanchion into the slider, replace the bolt on the bottom of the slide, slide the seal tool/PVC pipe over the stanchion and give a few good taps on top of the seal tool to seat the seal into the fork leg. Replace the circlip on top of the seal and repeat the process with the dust cap. I cut a chamfer into the PVC pipe so it doesn't chew up the seal lips. I also noticed on the SKF seals the chamfer needed to be deeper as the SKF dust caps have a more pronounced lip. I think the PVC pipe I made the seal tool out of was 1 3/8 but I'll have to check as it's out in the garage.

Success then. May it give you many happy hours of dependable power. Yeah those two bolts are damn near impossible to torque. I think I had to resort to a crows foot and some calculation.

2006 was called a Rev3. The EVO model started in 2009. Probably why you are having difficulty finding them.