Come to think of it I had a front brake acting odd because I crashed and the lever hit with enough force to deform the return spring in the master cylinder.
My EVO's fronts were sticking as well. Tried all the above to no effect. Try the above first though especially the lever play. I ended up rebuilding the caliper which wasn't a bad job at all and it fixed the sticking.
I wonder if Beta got a bit over extended. With GasGas going under Beta could sell everything they could produce perhaps even a few bikes that shouldn't get out the door? It's not an uncommon scenario when a manufacturer falls into a windfall of demand.
Probably not but since he said he just replaced his pack I thought it might be a third party plate set and those have been known to suffer the too much glue issue.
Bit more than a pin hole. I don't see anything that would indicate water or fuel/air mixture in or out of the hole. I suppose the real question is why did it overheat in the first place? If that hole went through to the water jacket the system would depressurize and over heat but it would also spew coolant. If the hole went into the transfer port you'd see spooge on the side of the cylinder and the bike would run lean causing it to overheat. I would hope that's a casting defect Beta will replace but it it isn't leaking and they don't replace the cylinder that hole should be filled with JB Weld or something similar just to make sure it doesn't start a crack or punch through to the transfer port.
Congratulations, you have a Beta I'm not familiar with GasGas clutches but this is an old problem with Betas and the fix is pinned at the top of the Beta forum. Don't be afraid, just tell them I sent you.
I typically see ~140-145 PSI near sea level. To be realistic it's only 8 or 9 bolts to take the head off anyway. If in doubt you might as well just replace the gasket.
Yeah local dealer did that to no avail. He did note her CDI isn't strapped in properly so I was thinking one or more of the wires might have work hardened from flexing and be intermittent. I also think pulling the flywheel off and checking the coil and trigger module screws/wires would be a good idea.
Ok problem not fixed. Rode with friend yesterday and she was stalling and blaming herself. I hopped on her bike for test ride and same problem. Still leaning towards electrics.
If you don't do anything to lower spring pressure the engagement speed shouldn't be any different for just dumping the clutch. It should actually be slightly faster as the plates will hang less on the basket. If anything the release should be more consistent.
I'm pretty sure there's no game changing technology in the factory bikes. TRS can buy Reiger shocks from Reiger if they want. With the weight limits there's not even incentive for the hand machined titanium goodies. The big differentiator in the factory bikes is flawless preparation and fine tuning to a rider preference and maybe the custom part to replace an identified problem area but that's about it.
Not like the old days when Suzuki or Honda would spend $200,000 on a factory MX bike or Ossa factory trialers had titanium frames.
Try moving your bars forward. It's common for new riders to have their bars too far back because it just looks weird to an enduro guy for the bars to be angled forward. What happens with the bars back is you rotate your hips too far forward and your hands are too close to your body to get proper leverage so you bend forward and stick your butt back and put pressure on your hands to maintain the wrong position.
Without a doubt the best clutch I ever tried was on a Fantic 307. Remembering that is what drove me to sort the Beta which is damn close now but I never want to go back to the terror of a drop in with wet drum brakes. I suppose there are cable disks for bicycles but I don't know how well they scale up to motorcycle size.
Had the same on my 2013. New pads didn't fix it but a rebuild did. Rebuild kit comes with pistons, seals and an O-ring. Not as bad a job as I feared. Front brake works properly now.
Rather than a clutch a bank of super capacitors that allow a rapid dump of current into the motor beyond what the batteries can do should synthesize the clutch slingshot quite nicely.
Yup Bold new graphics. Still think the 2014 Factory my buddy has is the prettiest bike I've ever seen. Well certainly up there with the old Rothman's Hondas
I cut the round lug off so I could fish it back down the harness and attach it to a hard frame ground with another lug that I soldered on. I think I ran a separate wire up through the harness to the kill switch from another hard ground and tied it to the other ground wires at the bottom of the harness. I don't have that bike anymore but that's what I remember. Having all the grounds tie to that one lug on the triple clamp was the dumbest wiring mistake I've seen a factory make.
