dan williams

Sounds like a plan. I have seen bent choke plungers and a caved in cylinder head from crashes so I guess anything can get broken if you hit it just right but a cracked carb body is a first. Let us know how it runs after you fit the new carb. Knowledge shared is knowledge multiplied.

If the fuel is coming out the vent tubes at the side of the carb nipper a hole in each tube about halfway up the carb body. It will fix the problem. Float height and travel adjustment per Billy T's instructions will cure the downhill burble. I've done these to many Betas with Mikuni's including my own and it will work. Now if fuel is coming out the single overflow overflow tube at the bottom of the carb then you have a float valve problem possibly a holed float. I know it's frustrating but having had a DelOrto on my '95 the bike improved immeasurably once it was replaced with a Mikuni. The Keihin on my '08 is a great carb but is sensitive to air temp and pressure and if the tiniest amount of moisture gets in the pilot circuit it's disassemble and clean time. As for any power issues if the bike hasn't had a set of rings in the last 5 years it's due. A set of rings will restore that bottom end snap and make the bike start easier. The other thing to note with the '00 270 is it has a flywheel on the primary side of the crank to smooth out power. This makes the bike seem slow compared to the 250s of the time or the bikes of the last few years. One way to get a bit more out of it is to use a fast turn throttle. Just take time to get used to it.

Hi Dave, yes a cooling system must be pressurized to work. The normal working temperature of the system is above the boiling temperature of water at 1 atmosphere. As a cooling system heats up it builds up pressure so the water in the system can be heated above 100C without boiling. By operating the cooling system under pressure it can be made much more efficient at removing heat. That's why a pinhole will cause a cooling system to boilover. The pinhole keeps the system from pressurizing so before the water can reach operating temperature it boils (changes from liquid to gas) this spikes the pressure in the system dramatically causing the pressue release valve on the radiator (or some other weaker part of the system) to release the steam in one big spurt.

Sorry no hall effect sensor on these ignitions. I've stripped a stator down to it's wires and it's only coils. One charging and one or two trigger plus 5 lighting. I think the way it works for the two trigger version is one trigger coil is the actual trigger and the second provides the signal that tells the microcontroller in the CDI how much spark advance to use. My guess on the single trigger coil type is the two magnets that are on the flywheel specifically to affect the trigger coils are flipped in orientation so that there is a positive pulse from one and a negative pulse 180 degrees away (flywheel orientation) and that these are used to sense engine speed to set advance.

The Rev3 brochure I looked at had the same stroke listed for the 125/200 and different for the 250/270 so that's why I thought different crank. Yeah call Ron.

I'm not sure but I thought the 250/270 and 125/200 were different strokes. That means different cranks. You might want to look up parts breakdowns for the year bike you have and see what parts are shared and what aren't. Be a shame to take it all apart and find the cases don't fit or some other big issue.

I think the lack of answers is because there is no good one. It's kind of a sore spot with owners of older Betas that you either burn out the mid muffler with fire or chemically but nobody has a really good solution.

Bwaaa haaaaa haaaaa the pants are the spandex trials pants! I can see the advantage. If I pull up to a section with these on my competitors and the observers will gouge out their own eyes in a vain attempt to unsee the unseeable. I showed them to the wife and she just grinned and said, "You think you can fit? Oh they're spandex, they'll stretch, I think." and walked away grinning. Thanks Ron, you're killing me buddy but I love ya anyway.

Black ops Soon several burly men in suits and RayBans will be coming to talk to you for asking about it.

So sitting here at work looking at Trials Central and this thread to see if there were any more helpful replies and I get a call. Pick up the phone and a very familiar voice says "$xx.xx and I have them in stock." Once again Big Daddy Ron Commo has my back. He also has Beta clothing on sale so I got new pants and a jacket. Might as well be stylish with my new mixture adjust screw. Thanks Ron.

Hah pinched a new tube last week so Saturday replaced tube and tire and fork seal. While the front tire was off I did what I've warned others not to do i.e. grab the front brake without thinking. DOH! Then I promptly dropped the fork slider into the pan full of used oil, splash up the pant leg and shoe. Bled the brake and checked the clutch reservoir since I had the bottle of brake fluid in my hand. No fluid. Well some, just the thinnest layer on top of the pickup hole. This comedy of errors did nothing for my self-esteem as a mechanic. Fortunately it

Try squirting the oil around the back of the skidplate where it mounts to the frame. A lot of times the frame flex will loosen that area up and it will squeak. It's probably a good idea to go round about the frame and snug things up if you haven't done it for a while.

Yeah and don't try to stop it by pulling the plug wire. It hurts. A lot.

Yeah the title says it all. Can anybody give me a ballpark price of what a new one is gonna cost?

Same thing happened on the bike I couldn't fix. Only bike to ever defeat me. It ran for a bit then nothing. I checked compression, swapped carbs and changed everything electrical except the stator so as Holmes would say, "When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." I never found out if the owner ever got it running. He went through some personal stuff while I had the bike and lost interest. For all I know it's still sitting in a corner somewhere.

Nippering a hole in the vent tubes above the level of the float bowl cures the fuel peeing problem. Float level and travel adjust fixes the downhill stall (well improves it at least) and the burble on drops. I love my V-Force carbon reeds but the Boyesens are supposed to be very good as well. Really adds to the low speed grunt. For the Mikuni the first jetting change most common around here is to go to a 27.5 pilot jet. Welcome to Beta nation.

"This is glue, strong stuff!" Elwood Blues

Can't fault your efforts. One thing I remember seeing but hoped it wasn't the case, I've seen reports of stator rewinds not taking on the first go from WCW. I have no personal experiance with this just passing it along.

Remember if you have a large amount of preload on the rear shock it will unload somewhat enthusiastically once your weight is off it. You may want to investigate a heavier spring with less preload and slightly higher rebound damping.

It's probably like most problems with sub-contractors. Beta says there's a problem, the supplier tests and says there isn't and around and around we go. After my experience with the grounding issues on my '08 it's possible the stator issues are a combination of poor winding insulation and bad grounding practice. Either one by themselves will not cause a significant number of failures but together they are deadly. I still think Beta would be well served with a modular stator design that would let you swap out the coils. That would put this to rest once and for all but that would cost extra on an already slim margin and they probably have many hundreds of the old design sitting on shelves.

Pity Beta got away from the flanged rim. Never had an issue with my old bikes with the flange.

Thanks for the vote of confidence but others know much more and Jon Stoodley and Billy T have forgot more then I'll ever know.

Airscrew starting position is typically 1.5 turns out from fully bottomed. The idle speed just lifts the slide a little so screw it in until it just begins to lift the slide for a start.

Pilot circuit sounds blocked.

Hmmmm all you need is compression, fuel, air and spark. Assuming you got spark and compression hasn't fundamentally changed that leaves the carb. When you cleaned it did you disassemble it and blow it out with compressed air? And by disassemble I mean take all the screws, jets and fiddly bits and lay them out on a paper towel while you ran high pressure into every hole in the carb body. Carb cleaner don't count because it won't have suffcient pressure to blow out a wedged spec of crud, it will spray in your eyes and cause a fire hazard. While you have the carb off pull the reed cage out and have a look. The described symptoms is exactly what my bike did when it sucked a reed. Reassemble the carb carefully checking the floats don't foul on the bowl gasket. Reinstall and tell us what happens. FWIW there have been plenty of times I've done serial carb teardowns when I didn't get it right. It happens. Keep us in the loop. We're keen to know you got it fixed.