dan williams

Wow, I've been off the forum for a while, busy at work, and all hell breaks loose. I seem to remember hearing Beta has a financial interest in Paioli but that may be incorrect. Without going into a long diatribe about suspension I will agree with Billy T's assessment.(note 1.) The Beta forks are not bad. They

Please do post pics of the "factory" plates.

It's fine. Some aeration is natural so is emulsification of any normal moisture that sits in the transmission.

The little pipe on the bottom of the float bowl is the overflow pipe for the float bowl. The two pipes on either side of the carb body are the atmospheric vents for the float bowl. I don't remember there being any tubing on the overflow. If there was though it would have just been routed down behind the case.

This has actually been asked about before and I didn't have a good answer then either. My suspicion is that the fiber plates, as they're rattling around at high speed, momentarily grab the side of the grooves causing them to get wedged and possibly flex into good contact with the steel plates. The clutch mod as described shouldn't make this any worse and just may fix it. I don't know. The last time I held a throttle wide open to go up anything was long ago and I'm just not that gung ho anymore so I won't be testing this theory out. Oh I just reread the oil theory above. That's an interesting thought.

I was right, bold new graphis and an improved clutch. I have to admit I was partial to the white bike but this may be doable. Of course now that I'm married there are, complications, to any bike renewal.

First things first, teach him how to bail. After watching a few nephews tear uncontrolled across parking lots I learned and taught my niece the finer points of letting it go. Basically took her to the top of a small hill with the engine off and had her roll down while jumping off the back (in full riding gear). That taught her two things. 1. If you exit before the crash it doesn't hurt (or at least it hurts a lot less) 2. Uncle Dan will not be mad at you for scratching the motorcycle. It's expendable. Other then that the clutch is very much a feel thing and the only thing I can suggest is to adjust it to slip slightly. It's not great for the engine to do this for a long time but it shouldn't take more then a few weeks to get the basic feel. Teach him to steer with his feet. Once he learns centering and steering with foot pressure he'll own the sport.

I was rather horrified when I heard about Belatier's dust up with the German observer. Phillipe's a big boy. Then I saw the video and the German checker was a monster. Seriously the guy threw Phillipe like he was a rag doll.

It's just happy after a day of riding. Seriously though feetupfun's right, it could only be coolant or gas tank venting as the cylinder doesn't hold pressure for very long and then only if the piston is in just the right spot. I'm inclined to think gas tank as any hole big enough to whistle in the coolant system will usually cause a boilover.

See this post or do a search for "rebuild Beta shock" http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/21138-desperate-need-info-on-rebuilding-paioli-shock/page__view__findpost__p__175565

Excellent. I'll file away this in the brain case for future reference. Thinking it through the bad stator may have been affecting your timing advance which would cause a delay in engine acceleration.

They're on tonight.

OK the difference between riding and just sitting there running is load on the engine and usually higher RPM and throttle setting. So that leaves the most likely candidates as too far advanced ignition, too lean carburation. Possible low octane fuel, air leak in intake or primary side seal. Carbon buildup in cylinder head raising compression. I know this is uneven but just sort of stream of consciousness on this. Here

Bit of advice Just ride it. If it's sorted now it's just as reliable as any bike but worrying will put you off and you'll be straining to hear every sputter. Still there's nothing like new bike smell

The AGT website says Pat has won three American endurocross championships. No mention of trials.

Just a thought, the bracket at the bottom of the perch may fit one way. Try flipping them 180 degrees.

Are you running stock bars? I can tighten the levers on my '05 Rev3 with Renthal bars but Tommaselli bars won't properly hold the levers. The grips still fit though. Apparently doesn't take much for the lever perches to slip.

The top of the piston expands more then the skirt when hot.

The only thing I'm sure of is bold new graphics and an "improved" clutch. Wouldn't fuel injection be neat? We know it's possible just a question of who jumps in next.

This somewhat parallels the experiance I had replacing the DellOrto on my '95 Beta with a Mikuni. It ran strong with the DellOrto but it was a beast to ride because I could never get the DellOrto properly tuned so it went from running lean to suddenly making olts of power. The Mikuni made the power delivery consistant across the entire range so the bike felt "weaker" but was actually just building power linearly instead of with a big step.

Hate to say it but this sounds like classic broken reed. If you slowly open the throttle does the RPM increase linearly? Duh, read the above post Dan you dumbass.

A stator usually runs crappy at the higher RPM then just dies. The 27.5 and 145 are normal around here (sea level) for a 250-270. Not sure if they are the same for a 200. Should be pretty close though going one size up on the pilot won't hurt. The fact that you have a 27.5 in there means somebody's already tuned it as the standard pilot is a 30. Since your mixture adjust screw has no effect I'd call blocked pilot as most likely. Watery or just plain lousy gas can mimic the effect of a blocked pilot. When you clean you have to really disassemble and go after the jets and body passages with compressed air. Make sure you assembled the needle correctly under the retaining plate. I've seen carbs with the splash shield under the main jet on upside down run weird too. Make sure your air boots and the clamps are sitting properly on the carb. It's easy to tighten them too much and have them slide off the carb throat. You've described where it runs screwy can you tell us if there is somewhere in the throttle range it runs good? Under load? Helps to debug which carb circuit may be at fault. Oh yeah make sure your choke is all the way off. I've seen bent ones stuck partially on. No wait one more thing is to make sure there isn't dirt in the intake holes for the pilot circuit in the intake bell. That can make it act funky too.

Sounds like a plan. I have seen bent choke plungers and a caved in cylinder head from crashes so I guess anything can get broken if you hit it just right but a cracked carb body is a first. Let us know how it runs after you fit the new carb. Knowledge shared is knowledge multiplied.

If the fuel is coming out the vent tubes at the side of the carb nipper a hole in each tube about halfway up the carb body. It will fix the problem. Float height and travel adjustment per Billy T's instructions will cure the downhill burble. I've done these to many Betas with Mikuni's including my own and it will work. Now if fuel is coming out the single overflow overflow tube at the bottom of the carb then you have a float valve problem possibly a holed float. I know it's frustrating but having had a DelOrto on my '95 the bike improved immeasurably once it was replaced with a Mikuni. The Keihin on my '08 is a great carb but is sensitive to air temp and pressure and if the tiniest amount of moisture gets in the pilot circuit it's disassemble and clean time. As for any power issues if the bike hasn't had a set of rings in the last 5 years it's due. A set of rings will restore that bottom end snap and make the bike start easier. The other thing to note with the '00 270 is it has a flywheel on the primary side of the crank to smooth out power. This makes the bike seem slow compared to the 250s of the time or the bikes of the last few years. One way to get a bit more out of it is to use a fast turn throttle. Just take time to get used to it.

Hi Dave, yes a cooling system must be pressurized to work. The normal working temperature of the system is above the boiling temperature of water at 1 atmosphere. As a cooling system heats up it builds up pressure so the water in the system can be heated above 100C without boiling. By operating the cooling system under pressure it can be made much more efficient at removing heat. That's why a pinhole will cause a cooling system to boilover. The pinhole keeps the system from pressurizing so before the water can reach operating temperature it boils (changes from liquid to gas) this spikes the pressure in the system dramatically causing the pressue release valve on the radiator (or some other weaker part of the system) to release the steam in one big spurt.