dan williams

...and? Don't leave us hanging.

'08 Rev3 mud guard won't fit. Different mount spacing.

Basically an SWM Jumbo. Powerful but heavy. I had one and traded it for an AT300 Mono.

Another satisfied customer.

Also have to ask what oil ratio you're running. It not only affects the here and now but how much residual oil collects in the bottom of the crank that suddenly shows up on those long hard high rev climbs. My bike also smokes a bit after a long climb but most do.

I've got the Diadoras. They feel OK but the soles are stiffer then the Gaerne and have less feel. Front stitching also ripped in the first few weeks on one boot. Other then that they've been fine. Next boots will be back to Gaerne though.

No worries, the guys buying the "2012" Raga are also getting a 2011.

I believe Beta usually starts promoting the next year bike around Sept-Oct time frame.

Basically you would see pitting around the waterpump and some had holes in the case that caused the cooling system to purge into the primary side of the engine. Use a good quality, already mixed coolant like Silkolene Pro-Cool or Engine Ice. The biggest problem with corrosion was with tap water mixed with regular coolant. Particularly with the magnesium cases this caused a reaction that ate through case material due to the contaminents in the tap water. Everybody panics when their gearbox oil is a little milky. Trials transmissions are not sealed and we do ride in all weather so just condensation alone can get into the gear oil which gets churned up into an emulsion. I've yet to hear of a transmission failure due to milky oil. As long as the bike is used regularly there will be a film of oil on the vital bits and any water will settle out into the bottom of the case 'til it's churned up again. If you're going to store it for any length of time then it's worth chasing the water out for a fresh oil fill but not so much with regular use. This has been the way of the world for years but now we have a sight glass in the side of the tranny and can see the oil and all hell has broken loose. I drained lots of milky oil out of my old air cooled Bultacos. Fill the oil halfway up the sight glass, fill the coolant to the top (some will percolate out as the bike warms and go riding.

There's no substitute for real trials boots. Trail boots will protect you well enough but you lose much of the feel of the machine. Remember there's a lot of walking in trials and trail boots tend to be too stiff to make that comfortable. Also make sure there are no steel bits like caps on the front of the boot sole as you may need to dab on a rock and having the boot slip is almost a guaranteed crash.

No, I don't think roughing up the plates is necessary. My theory on why roughing up the plates helps the sticky clutch has to do with the glue. I think roughing up the plates allows them to retain a film of oil which helps keep the glue from cold flowing onto the metal plates and sticking. Once the glue is cleaned up roughing up the plates just reduces the surface area for the friction material.

All fixed

If memory serves the Sureflex look pretty good out of the package but give them a good visual and if the tabs are clean and smooth and the plates aren't full of glue they're probably fine.

Soooo Chinese Ossa? Perfect opportunity for a Chinese company to swoop in, snap up the assets and existing designs of a technologically advanced bike and get into the trials game. It's going to happen it's just a matter of when and who.

Spare part for repair provided by Big Daddy Ron Commo. Thanks Ron.

The drill mod isn't necessary. Just set the floats per Billy T's instructions and nipper a hole in the vent tubes halfway up the body and it's fixed. The reason the Mikuni pees fuel out of the vent tubes is the vent tubes on the Beta are too long and end below the float bowl. If fuel gets splashed up into the tubes they can form a siphon and will flow fuel until the supply stops. Nippering a hole above the level of the float bowl kills the siphon. Any fuel that gets up into the vent tube will just go back down into the float bowl or out the end of the vent tube but it won't keep sucking fuel out of the float bowl. It really is that easy to fix.

Ahhhhh, thought I might have had the dreaded ignition failure last week but kicked it over to debug this week and it would start and rev with minimal throttle, die at mid throttle at low RPM. Hmmm I thought that sounds like a swallowed reed. Pulled it apart and sure enough a piece of carbon fiber stuck in the intake track. Unfortunately the reed didn't fail, the plastic reed block fractured and hopefully took a quick and uneventful trip through the engine. I love the way it runs too much with the VForce to go back to the stock reeds. Still cheaper than a new stator.

Are you saying the lever won't pull in or the pressure plate is stuck disengaged? Not sure I scan what the problem is? If the system pumps up like it's pressurized it could be you have the lever adjusted so the master cylinder piston never comes back far enough to open the relief port into the resevior. This could cause a hard lever/slipping clutch when the fluid heats up. You could also have a blockage in the system. There was an issue a few years ago where some GasGas master cylinders were mis-drilled.

http://www.manxyouthtrials.com/two-stroke.pdf

Superb

Jetted rich and/or too much oil in mixture and/or wrong plug heat range and/or leaky primary seal and/or retarded ignition. Start with the obvious, does it run good? If so the jetting and ignition timing are probably OK. Checking for correct plug is easy. Remember the plug doesn't have any effect on engine temp except when it is way too hot and can cause preignition. Other then that it's just like a thermometer. Oil mixture is one of those mysteries of life. Some guys run 50:1 up to 100:1 I've found 100:1 with a good synthetic to be fine on my Rev3s but then I don't spend much if any time at high revs. I consider 80:1 to be conservative in a modern trials bike. Others will disagree. Leaky primary seals or porous cases can let tranny fluid into the crank but this happens rarely. Other oddities that can cause the plug to look too dark are plugged exhaust, sticking choke, a bad thermostat causing the fan to run constantly making the engine run too cool and high altitude operation where the bike runs too rich. OK that's all I can come up with.

Have had that on several Rev3s. The steering head bearings races can be driven deeper into the aluminum head stock requiring a tighten. Loosen the triple clamps on the forks and chase the clamps together with the top nut on the stem being careful not to strip the threads. Yeah nerve wracking. Turn the clamps and feel for smooth action. If you feer ripples the bearing races may be damaged from the impact. One otger thing I had cause a clunk was the hole on the top clamp where the shaft comes through was machined a tiny bit too big. A couple wraps of teflon plumbers tape cured it.

Yeah classic port configuration. Basically you shouldn't feel much or any difference at low RPM. At high RPM the column of mixture in the intake tract never goes to zero velocity so the reeds never close and closing the intake tract with the piston restricts the flow. That's why they use intake extenders, to add a longer column of air to act as a forced induction system. If I remember correctly back in the 70's this was Suzuki's big deal at the time on the RM's with a case/reed induction system where the intake fed the crankcase directly through a reed valve with no other valving. At the time most engines used no reeds and had a piston port intake. So yeah it'll run out of revs sooner then the cutout piston. Not important and probably safer if you're not an expert.

Looking at the exploded diagram it's the intake so it is a modification to add top end power.

Typically that would be to delay the port closing to add more rev. Is it on the transfer port or the intake?