thall1

Starting to strip my 2013 4t.. gearbox issues…. Can’t get enough slack on the chain to remove the cam shaft! tensioner is removed… manual says just to lift the chain off the gears and remove the cam but I can’t get enough slack. also the retaining ring for the cam shaft bearing is slightly too long to come free of the retaining groove to allow the bearing to slide off?!… Ive even tried removing the guides from the block but they won’t come out either at this stage I must be missing something in the manual but I can’t think what?

I did wonder that and that was going to be my next question!… I’m just working through the manual in the order it shows atm. funnily enough we went the other way.. 4RT to beta 4t!

Starting to strip my 2013 4t.. gearbox issues…. Cant select gears, lat month I snapped the quadrant off the gear change shaft.. I repaired that and made a new pivot slide for the change fork as it was really sloppy… gear change was brilliant after… until I dropped the bike onto rocks now I can sometimes select either 1st or 2nd but nothing else… the gear shift drum behind the clutch basket isn’t moving so something is amiss in the gearbox.. started stripping the engine today and first snag is I can’t pull the plastic water pump impellor off its shaft!.. circlip is removed, there’s a little bit of movement between the shaft and the plastic impeller but it’s stuck fast!… tried pulling with all I can whilst gripping with a pair of pliers and it’s not moving… any thoughts?… thought I’d get further than this before I hit a snag!

Not that I know of.. when I had my Montesa I fitted dimpled clutch plates… they did make it a bit less switch like which is the opposite of what I’m looking for…!

My 2013 clutch has always felt a bit too soft.... there's no positive 'spring' at the bite point....we've got a 2014 4T as well and that's totally different.... almost too 'switch' like...not quite as bad as some Montesa 4RT but not far off... I've fitted new clutch springs, slave & master cylinder piston kits. The clutch pack is well within the limit. Its almost like it needs slightly stiffer springs... cant find any though... If I put a thin washer under the head of the bolts on the clutch pack would this make the clutch a bit stiffer and a bit more positive?

ive drilled out the original pin and made a new one to better suit the dimensions on the gear change shaft....all fitted and seems to index the gears better. time will tell!

I’ve got two flats on the guide pin… I’m assuming this is wear?… there’s quite a bit of free play in the gear change shaft linkage which appears to limit the movement for selecting 1st and 4th. Neutral to 2nd and into 3rd seems ok… think I might turn up a new pin with a closer fit.

I’m not sure if there is. ‘Fail safe in the box … a weld wouldn’t be good for that… anyway mines all welded now, I’ll try and get some gaskets tomorrow and hopefully I’ll be good to go!

All sorted now… I just refitted the clutch plates and a quick burst with the gun and it’s all off. anyone rewelded the shaft before?

Weld has broken on the gear change shaft. How do I stop the nut and inner clutch basket from spinning when I put the impact gun on it?

ok ill try that

thanks guys!... I'll take a look later in the week....any tips for holding the clutch basket while I undo the nut without the correct holding tool??... I remember breaking a clutch basket pillar on a Montesa a few years ago trying to loosen the nut...not cheap so would prefer to avoid that again!

Hi guys, hoping someone can advise.....2013 4t, gear lever shaft has lost its normal 'stops' both up & down the gears. I can still select gears but the lever & shaft continue to move in both directions. It doesnt stop in its usual 'detent' positions and wont return to its 'neutral' position after changing gear...Its internal so its an engine out job but can I get to the gear selector mechanism or the gearbox itself without dismantling the engine first?...any thoughts as to the problem?

Hi, i need to make a new front wheel inner spindle spacer, does anyone know the length it should be... ?

As totty79 said check the visible items that he’s listed above but also unless he has receipts, then also factor in brakes pads front and rear, Caliper piston sets front and rear, rear brake master cylinder and clutch and front brake master cylinder.... I haven't a bike yet that I haven’t that I had to change them in the first year

Give beta Uk a call with the VIN number

Bvm moto, GasGas Uk..

Any progress yet ?

I know the feeling but I think you need to fix it first, if nothing else to be able to get a good price for it...

No worries!... it’s going to be a tricky one to sort out...a second bike to rob parts from would be very useful!

I did try all the swapping all the above parts when mine played up, fuel tank, injector, ecu, loom, temp sensor and a few times over but chasing an intermittent fault is tricky...

I think you need to try and borrow one first.. it’s a lot to pay out for if it’s not the issue. If the bike came from a dealer have a chat with them and see if they can help?

Mine was a 2006/7 bike but I have heard of newer bikes with ecu faults .. I think a new ecu is around £400... I think I paid about £250 for the one that was fitted on mine to test. The ecu is part of the throttle body. It’s all a bit tight but it does come out.

Just for your info , mine used to cough every now and again .. eventually it stopped and no amount of kicking would get it to start. It would start if I disconnected the fuel line to the injector and manually fed the injector but it would run very rich as if ‘choke’ was on.. hence why I later replaced the temp sensor. i got the ecu ‘read’ and it said there was a temp fault... so despite already fitting a new temp sender I fitted another from a good bike... still wouldn’t start or if it did it took 20-30 kicks and wouldn’t keep running. A loom was fitted from a donor bike and we thought that had fixed it but 24 hrs later the bike once again refused to start... ecu was swapped again (this had already been done a few times previously) and that sorted it.. I bought the 2nd ecu that was fitted and the donor bike had a programmable ecu fitted at a later date.

If it’s ‘coughing’ at the same time as when the fan kicks in then I’d be checking the fan. Run the bike up to get it warm, disconnect the fan and run it again, if it doesn’t cough or cut out with the fan disconnected then try a new fan motor or just borrow one from another bike to double check. 4rt fans come on pretty quick so don’t leave it running too long without a fan connected. The ‘cheapest’ check would be checking for corrosion in all the connectors and check for good clean earth points..I’d then be looking for corrosion ( and therefore high resistance) in the loom earth wires. Under the tank, there was on earlier bikes, a yellow connection block with a bundle of earth wires coming to one point so check this. You can prise open the block to get inside to see the earth rail and connectors. From experience I would also be checking from the capacitor back into the loom for black wire corrosion.. you’ll have to remove the loom and unwrap it to be sure. It looks like a nightmare getting it out but once the tank and Throttle body/ecu is off it doesn’t take too long. From the capacitor the earth wire extends back into the loom by about 12” then it joins into a ‘crimp’ connector with other loom earths from the rear part of the loom.. These earths then go forward to the yellow block under the tank where earths from the forward part of the loom all come together. You’ll need to get to this lower crimp to be sure that any ‘black wire corrosion’ from the capacitor hasn’t got past this point. Cut back the insulation on the capacitor earth until you find good clean copper, cut off and replace any that’s gone black. If it’s gone past the crimp point then just keep cutting until you get good copper and replace as necessary. Personally I’d solder new wire in rather than add anymore connection blocks. Don’t forget to heat shrink over the joints. If you do have black wire corrosion then I would probably replace the capacitor... from memory the genuine ones aren't that expensive (£40 ish I think) or I expect someone on here will know the values and you could buy from a electrical component supplier. There is also a temp sender in the radiator. You could try replacing this...Again I think they are about £25...On non ECU bikes the radiator Temp sender acts like a switch when the rad gets to temp to switch the fan on, however, on the 4rt it sends a signal to the ecu that then switches the fan on via the relay so the relay could be giving a high load?.. again try and borrow a relay to try or just buy one? After this, if it still coughs and dies I’d be trying to borrow an ECU to try. Good luck!