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dan929

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About dan929

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  • Bike
    Txt Pro

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    West Midlands

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  1. Bikes are a bit subjective, personally 250 or less and as new as you can realistically afford. All modern bikes will be more capable then nearly all riders, and all will have there good/bad points. Beta (stick to the EVO), GasGas, scorpa, TRS, Montesa, sherco seem to be the common makes I see at most trials. Head to a trial or a school and have a chat with people who ride, trials riders are a friendly bunch. I did a school first. Then watched a trial and spoke to a few people for advice on bikes, clubs, practice grounds, kit etc and even got offered a go on a few bikes while I was watching. Basics for kit would be bike, boots, helmet, gloves. Knee pads are handy. Most of my kit was second hand when I started and just upgraded as time went by.
  2. Hi Darren, I'm based pretty locally to yourself, couple of junctions down the M5. There are quite a few clubs around the West Midlands. Redditch, Stourbridge, penkridge, Earl shilton, bewdley, Evesham, stratford..the list is a long one! Be worth taking a look at the Midlands AMCA and ACU Facebook pages to see what's on and get down to a local trial for a watch. People are friendly at trials, have a chat with some people and they're usually more than happy point you in the right direction. I'm sure there is an AMCA trial at Hobbs hole, Walsall this Sunday. There is also an events calander on trialscentral as well that will tell you when something local is happening. Before you go and buy a bike, kit etc I would suggest getting on a lesson. I can recommend heading up to leek and seeing Stu at Trialsday. Provides all the kit and a bike for the day. If you go for it and get your own bike/kit there is a decent group of riders around the west midlands that are out most weekends. Have a nose at The Tubby Trial Team page on Facebook, good bunch and we're a big help when I started out and there's usually a few out riding/mucking about somewhere in the Midlands. Hope this helps
  3. Had a few gassers 05 through to 18 and they've all ran that bolt and bush arrangement. I think they've been there since 02 so always figured for the sake of a few quid just to find them, as the bolts hollow I tend to keep a spare and change it I have the clutch out, heard stories of a few been snapped off
  4. dan929

    Won't rev?

    Maybe no use at all, but I had a similar issue on my 18 last year, just decided to run badly, intermittent start but wouldn't run more than a couple of seconds, and then wouldn't play at all. Not sure which CDI you have, but I traced mine through and found the stator was good but CDI was putting less than 3v down to the coil, if it's any use I can dig the actual figures/sketch I made out? New CDI fitted and fired up fine.
  5. Had a weak/eventually no spark issue on my 18 250. It just decided it wasn’t starting again, then spent ages chasing a spark, checked earth, tang through wiring etc. Turned out the issue was a faulty CDI unit. Apologies for the bad fag packet sketch, and if I’m telling you how to suck eggs, I’m not a fan of anything electrical. If stator/ignition setup is the same as my 18 it may give you some figures from a good stator/wiring to comapare with. Final confirmation for me I was seeing around 12v up to the cdi when cranking it over, dependant on arm strength, then less than 3v out to the coil. CDI had signs of splitting around the potting so I suspect moisture was the culprit.
  6. I’m far from an expert but if everything fueling wise is good and as it was when running right then you could be looking in the wrong place. Maybe crank seal is leaking and it’s burning gearbox oil, hence the rich looking plug. As above worth checking spark is good and cover the basics before digging too deep
  7. Maybe a bit of a long shot, I rememeber a few people having trouble with the choke sticking on the dellorto carbs. Maybe worth checking the plunger is operating correctly and the seals in there are good.
  8. I wont get chance to take a closer look until tomorrow (18 E4). I'm 99% sure they sat flush to the outer face of the hub when I changed them in a 17 E4 Bearings fitted were: SKF - 6004 2RS BEARING - C3 - 20X42X12MM. Could point to the hubs being m/c a little deeper to take the wider bearing?
  9. dan929

    250 or 300

    As above really, all depends on ability and how comfortable he feels on a 300. Ideally have a go on both and see how he feels. My old 15 300 Evo was great fun, but in all honestly didn't do my riding any good and would happily bite even when softened off, you can slow the power down with low comp head, base gasket changes, slow throttle, smooth it with a flywheel weight etc (if pre-15 i think) but all takes money and time I guess. Jumped back on a 250, albeit a Gas Gas and I'm still a terrible rider but alot happier and will be sticking to 250s for the foreseeable future. In 95% of sections i come across at club level a 125 is fine and easier in a lot - for the record I'm 13st and I've known guys nearer the 15st have a lot of fun on smaller bikes, even 80s. Just the odd longer loop or bank where being able to pull 3/4th makes life easier, a better rider wouldn't have a problem at club level and at 10st I wouldn't write off a go on a 125, or maybe for a few months/until a 250 turns up?
  10. Yup your right, they will spit some out but only when up to pressure. Maybe if you get an air lock or pump cavitates it will just loose coolant as there won’t be much flow? Everyone has their own way, but I’ve not had an issue yet with filling up level, squeezing hoses then lifting the front up and topping up and repeating a few times until I’ve drank a brew or two, I suspect rushing is half the problem. Just check the level when I ride it next for peace of mind more than anything
  11. I don’t think the 11 has a bleed screw, I remember my 15 having one in the top of the head? Just give the hoses a good squeeze, and fill steady. Lift the front wheel up so the filler neck is as as close to vertical as you can get it, top up again and repeat squeezing hoses. Have a feeling there is something in the manual about lifting the front wheel when filling coolant, have a look on beta website you can download manuals for free there. Just keep and eye on the coolant when you first ride it, they will spit a bit until a level is found.
  12. dan929

    Hi all

    Hi Kev, there is a trials club in redditch so probably a good place to start, there are quite a few local clubs in your area. There are a few local venues to practice at as well when you get started, a lot of people use Shatterford - birchwood farm button oak. 👍🏻
  13. I think the 250 4 stroke would be fine to get going on, I've stuck to 2ts but mainly because I have fond memories of 125/250 2 strokes when i started out on road bikes. 125s are more than capable for the majority of club riders, I have ridden a couple and they are great fun. I have been riding trials for a couple of years and if I was to start again I would go with a 125 for a while to get used to the technique etc then if its lacking in power step up to a 250 which, in my opinion is all 90% of riders will ever need. From my own relatively new experiences of trials, I started out on a 04 250 txt pro then for reasons unknown stepped up to a 300 2t evo, fitted the obligatory flywheel weight and slow throttle and it was a great bike, much fun mucking about with your mates. When it came to riding a trial super low speed stuff was not really the issue, or really slippy stuff when you could just use the torque and chug in a high gear. But in sections where you need to keep speed/hold a line and/or be a bit aggressive - rocky stream beds was a favourite particularly with a bank out with plenty of grip a bike length up it (mixed with novice throttle and clutch control) it had an amazing ability to sneak up on you and bite, hilarious for your mates watching! Recently swapped back to a 250 gas gas and from the first couple of rides I cant see me ever going back to a 300, the 250 is just more manageable for my level of riding. I just cant see me ever hitting any obstacle big enough to need any extra power.
  14. Took my test again a few years ago and I would say £700 is about right including CBT theory test hiring a suitable bike for the test. I got away with a days tuition and a few hours before both my tests. I’m unsure if an A2 license would suffice for a trials bike as apposed to a full license? Either way it’s a big commitment for anyone, plus tax, mot, insurance etc. 700 would pay for a lot of trials and practice days. A lot of the people I ride with took up trials to avoid riding on the road and have a bit of a laugh safe in the knowledge all your mates will make it home at the end of the day, and ultimately you don’t need to compete in a trial every weekend to have a laugh and drink tea with your mates. Maybe it’s due to the average age of trials riders in the uk being higher than other sports people are less bothered about competing and more about having fun in their limited spare time outside of life commitments. I guess the challenge would be to persuade these people sat on the fence to do a few more trials and up the numbers a bit. I don’t think there is one simple answer, makes for an interesting debate though!
  15. I’m based in the midlands myself and and personally I can’t recommend Stu Day highly enough. I’ve been to his schools and very recently a one and one day with him. The key thing with Stu is he’s a nice bloke and is particularly good at passing on his knowledge to all levels of rider. I agree with madmostin, his attitude and enthusiasm is infectious and makes for a good day out.
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