Could it be made on a 3D printer?
. . . 10 (or so) is a bit beyond my budget, but it has got me thinking. LOL
The digit is a one-off?
A quick search doesn't come up.
I think that last 2018 price for the Dragonfly I saw was about $9600.(with 143 units available world wide). Shipping was extra? No word if they are now sold out, bet it is tough to get anything from Spain these days. There's no 2020 news of future Dragonfly production, same as with Gas Gas, which I could have sworn I spotted on the internet at nearly $12k.
I bet you could produce a really fun machine . . . or two . . . or six for a lot less?
Specs say a 5 sp. gear box.
You should be able to find plenty of anything except the cylinders. They have been and are always being sourced.
There was a guy (not long ago) on eBay in the UK selling kits he claimed used "new" cylinders. You are in the UK so I'm not really in a position to help you source parts, but of course you can buy off eBay yourself. Again things come up on the internet, just not as plentifully as years ago. You aren't late to the game, it may just take time for something to surface.
Well . . . here's a post from someone in the US and they claim to ship worldwide.
"Looking for a carb rebuild kit", which implies disassembly. Eventually someone was going to chime in about the horribly lean jetting the Reflex can have.
Yes, dealer for parts I agree. I ran out of time while composing. Thanks for backing me up.
Depending on a particular scenario, running issues thought to be carburetor related will likely involve some level of disassembly. If you get to that point and discover a likely culprit is varnish or ingested debris you have to do something. Compressed air won't get you very far, many people give up and buy some replacement. That's ok too, but with some tenacity most carburetors can be revived, regardless of whether there is something better as a replacement.
There are always people suggesting not to bother with a Reflex or don't expect a "real" experience on one or why dump all this money into one. The thing is we all start somewhere and why not on a Reflex if that's your budget or love? I loved my '91 Fantic 309 (in retrospect). I did not care for the USD forks and I do not miss the heavy clutch pull (despite a Section One cable), but everything else (except premix) I absolutely loved.
This forum has been declining in people willing to offer help, but in light of what is going on in the world that may change.
I will offer what I've discovered/ have learned. You may need to go that route as well if you don't want to buy new.
A high quality ultra sonic cleaner is a good idea if your bike sat idle for yrs. or if your carburetor ingested particle/ debris. I've have good luck using one with a high quality solvent and there are ones that work well which are not petroleum based. In my experience if you find crud in the float bowl you may be hard pressed to get any cleaning results w/o an ultrasonic cleaner or similar. Unfortunately good ones are costly, but if you buy a large one they clean more than just carburetors.
You may find people may respond to this post suggesting not to waste your time with a Reflex carburetor. Below is a link that I've followed. It's a good approach.
Joe Lewis has had some experience with these silencers and materials. He likely has the most current information.
Thanks Fantic303. Those are very useful links for as near to the real thing as is possible. They have a US division so ordering is a snap.
I've had to put this project aside though I did buy modified taper bearings from:
Technical Sports One
9920 Prospect Ave Suite107
Santee, CA 92071-4349
(619) 258-1450 fax
These modified bearings have the frame (steer tube ID) clearance necessary to work in my '85 RTLS. I couldn't speak to other bikes, but Leonard can provide the measurement specs so you can check your specific bike.
One other thing I recent discovered that has seemingly never been discussed in this forum. A Cota 4RT yoke and factory Honda part number bearings fit w/o any issue in the pre-disc brake RTL250S. Yes I'm aware this is an issue for some riders in certain classes. I also can't say this fitment works in the disc brake RTL250S ('88-'90).
Would anyone know if a comprehensive (pretty darn complete) RTL registry exists?
I think "Trials Only" had the beginnings of one. I may have seen a thread suggesting someone was putting one together?
To put it another way has the question ever been answered? How many could have been made (excluding factory rider bikes) during the production run? What percentage are believed to still exist?
I found a person modifying taper bearing for use in the RS125R. That bike only uses it in the top.
He gave me a measurement to check on my RTL head stock. If I have the clearance his part should work. It may take a week to get back to this, but once I know something one way or the other I'll update this post.
If anyone else should have useful input on this subject please respond. Thank you.
I noticed them before I posted this question.
Did you know them to actually have any inventory? Have you made a recent purchase?
What are RTL owners doing for a replacement when the original is worn out?
Yes I know the RS125R uses the same in the top position, but that information doesn't seem to be of any help.
I know the part is not shown and it likely is designed to last as long as the bike is expected to last . . . one season of competition?
It does not look to show as much wear as the guide bushings (different material) so it's not as much a worry, but here's a photo just the same.
My next concern is the headstock bearings. What are people using as replacements??
I soaked the top of the seal with a penetrant overnight and logged on in the morning to see these replies. I heated things up using a heat gun and with minor work the seal gave way and out came the parts.
Question for either of you two or anyone reading with a bit of knowledge. Guide bushing is likely the one you refer to (51414469003)? In the owner manual no part # is referenced. The part is there, but w/o a part number. On the CMS web site that part is shown below the back up ring (the part preventing the stanchions from separating from the lower leg?) and is list 7-1. The stanchion has a similar bushing that stayed on. It is mounted to the very bottom of the stanchion. It looks similar to the guide bushing. It would have to be smaller than the guide bushing. Is it replaceable? Does anyone know the number or if it's available? .
,In the hours since I posted this I began thinking my observations are wrong. After more thought things began to not seem likely.
So I did a bit more work and found the following:
Working on the other side, to the same degree of disassembly, got the same results. The stanchions won't slide out of the lower legs.
I was able to carefully remove the old wipers and found the seals are apparently retained by a large (now rusty) flat circlip. The correct pliers removed both clips.
This now has me thinking the seals are not held by friction as is sometimes (usually?) the case. If the spring circlips were not steel and now rusty, the old seals might only be held by a sort of drop in like fit. Rather than inject terminology at this point I'll just say I began wondering if the design is intended for a tool less repair?
The bottom fork leg bolt unscrewed and the damping rod did not need to be held (by some tool) as is the usual case. As odd as my original observations are, things are beginning to make sense if Honda designed the leg and stanchion to pull the old seal out? Like a slide hammer arrangement.
I'm wondering if I should use a bit of force. Is something striking the backside of the seal, will the seal come out with a few good hits? Or will I ruin something for good?
Another observation: There isn't any evidence that the seals have ever been replaced. What are the odds unless these are a drop in fit?
I am attempting a front fork seal replacement. I have the Honda service manual, but the procedure isn't covered in it. I've done some internet searching, but there appears to be nothing. There are enough RTLs out there you'd think there would be something I could find?
The problem I'm having is the stanchion tube will not come out of the lower leg. There seems to be something connected to the bottom of the stanchion tube that stops the tube from coming out. Whatever it is seems to be contacting the backside of something, I'm guessing the fork seal?
If you peer in you see something that is a part of the stanchion tube (it rotates with the stanchion tube), looking like something requiring a tool to fit it. Something like this (this is just a bicycle freewheel tool) only made to fit whatever I'm looking at?
Whatever this object is it is not on the parts list. The other odd thing is the oil lock (51432-KE1-003) is on the back side (in the bottom) rattling around with no way to come out until the stanchion is first retracted from the fork leg. The parts list seems to suggest this oil lock is just under the rebound spring, but that's not the case
This could be a occasional occurrence, but I've not yet disassembled the other side to see if it will present the same issue.
If someone with specific experience could reply I would greatly appreciate it. If this is a fitting of some type (screwed into the stanchion) requiring a Honda tool or other I'd also appreciate that information. Better yet if the fitting has a part number (and it's available) that's the next best thing.
Thank you in advance.
Only Trial dot com has most of them, but it would be nice to have them here. You'll have to scroll nearly 2/3 down to find them.
Feet up Fun: I never thought of eccentric sleeves, clever.
Check out the below reference link and do note this thread has some good points from others. I have also included two links, reading that will really get you thinking.
The one missing term in the above is trail. The yokes or triple clamps having no offset will negatively affect trail (according to the articles). Changing the rake (cutting the frame) gets a lot of credit for a "transformation", but after reading the articles you may think twice? There are just too many factors. You might look for someone with a bike having these mods already done that you could try?
Check this tread out in the Honda forum:
If you have readily available supply (no supply issue) carburetor parts, that would suggest parts are a reasonable cost.
You might replace the needle and seat for the float. Why not if they are cheap? On again, off again "won't idle properly and finally bogs down" sounds like money well spent on those two parts.
If you own a number of bikes, have extra money etc, consider investing in an ultra sonic cleaner. Once you learn how to use it, and the many uses it has, you'll wonder why you never bought one before. On the TLR carburetor bodies alone it cleans them wonderfully well. Just be careful with some solvents and the heat the ultra sonic cleaners will/ can produce!
Sell the TLR for enough $ to buy one of these. You'll be good to go.
Disc brakes can be over rated when it comes to casual low speed trail riding. Beside simple drums are sometimes just nicer to deal with.