kurtas

Trials bikes are normally fairly difficult to change into neutral, I normally just turn my bike off then put it into neutral. On the odd occasion you can knock it into neutral with it running but its certainly not really easy.

GasGas had the same forks at the time, so you could look at them also.

From memory the suspension was the same between the trials and the explorer variant. Marzocchi forks and Ohlins rear shock.

I would start by lining it up with the other bearings in the case. it may be a shim that was added to get the correct end float on a shaft.

https://www.trialsbike.com.au/product/ossa-5020040211-air-filter-box-lid/ Was an Ossa dealer at the time, so he may still have a stand if you send him an email.

TY, DT, GT MX80's all have very similar parts, so if you can find a wreckers etc they might have parts for one or all.

Another thought, you could see if a sleeve was available for the seal area. Then just give the bearing area a light cleanup with emery. https://www.skf.com/au/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve

You could investigate getting the damaged areas chrome plated. They would grind the part down and then chrome plate back to size, hopefully removing the damage in the process. The seal area is the key, I don't think it would matter if there were a few surface defects like what you've got where the bearing sits. If the depth of the defects are less than 0.25mm than it should be acceptable to chrome plate.

Have you checked the HT coil, spark plug and lead? Not sure but it wouldn't surprise me if the electronic ignition kit for an SWM would fit. https://www.motoswm.co.uk/shop/swm-rotax-trials-electronic-ignition-kit-pro/

The spring/open side faces inward so that when pressure is applied from the compression of the fuel mix in the bottom end it energises the seal. If it is the other way around only the spring/material strength is what is creating the seal which should be enough to keep out the air or gearbox oil which is not under a relatively high pressure.

Plus one to Jonnyc21, has been crushed in shipping, the split is normal though. You might be able to buy the bush from a local engineering/bearing supplies store or online rather than getting Honda parts if it is not a special size. It is a glacier bush, very common part.

If you want a competitive trials bike the TY. if you want to have a nice trail bike which also goes through trials sections the TL.

I applied a coat of epoxy resin to the inside of a Bultaco tank I had, worked really well. Plus you could buy 250mL bottles from the marine store.

Kill switch should be easy, You need to connect it between ground and the wire that goes into the HT coil. The regulator is normally not part of the flywheel/stator, generally it is located up in the area of the frame above the engine.

Be 6ft tall and kick it like you mean it. I stood slightly forward of where you normally would so you could get a good kick at it once the starter gear had engaged.

If you can get your hands on a head for a 2011, this has a lower compression than the 2013 had. Not sure if the 2012's had the higher compression or not but I had both a 2011 and 2013 model. Depends how/what you ride but I found the 2013 to be a big improvement in power with the higher compression giving a much more torquey engine.

Fairly common for the GasGas swingarm to break where the bolt for the brake caliper goes through it, so not unlikely for it to have been changed but it would be a direct replacement between a standard model and the Raga. GasGas from that era had Marzocchi forks, fairly certain the Raga was no different. Standard GasGas had a Dellorto carb - Raga I think had the Keihin so there would have been an adaptor or different rubber between airbox and Carby. Nice use of an innertube by the previous owner. Anything GasGas from 02 to 08 should fit, into 09 the frame changed so there might be differences.

Spark is not normally an issue, do you have any spark at all? I.e. if you hang on to the spark plug do you get a kick?

Remove the flywheel and check the status of the woodruff key and also the mating surfaces of the taper. Sounds like the flywheel has spun on the shaft and consequently now your timing is incorrect.

If that is the original carby, it is probably worn in the slide and you will never fix the variable idle issue. You can adjust it correctly and then 5 mins later it isn't right, so you adjust it and then on it goes. We bought a chinese copy keihin and put legitimate keihin jets/needle in and solved that issue.

Would have thought a 2011 GasGas would have been Marzocchi forks still??? The bushes normally need to be pressed/knocked back into position though.

TRS's have the diaphram clutch don't they? These seem to be inherently noisy in comparison to the basket clutches that most older and Non-trials bikes are fitted with, my guess is you are hearing that. Obviously once you begin engaging the clutch the fingers of the diaphram are held into position and hence don't rattle about.

If it revs out alright but only falters on an extended full open throttle it may just be a case that the float height is too low. Raise the float height and get a bit more fuel into the carby and you could solve the problem.

You could just replace the spokes? Wouldn't be surprised if the 4rt spokes are a direct fit.

You should be able to get the coils rewound rather than getting a replacement. If you can find a manual I would think also they would have some resistance values stated, once you warmed it up you could check these values against what you are getting to confirm it is the stator.