kurtas

Not enough information yet to know but it appears it is only the storage area and not the production area has been affected. So theoretically nothing stopping them from manufacturing new parts. It's a waiting game at the moment as I doubt Honda/Montesa fully know the stock that they have lost yet, let alone make future decisions.

Can you move the pickup for the ignition to retard the timing slightly?

Three Ideas: Does it match with a part number for the cases? A machining note to define how much end float/shims the crankshaft needs. A job number from a previous mechanic shop to keep the parts identifiable.

Could try a maroon scotch brite pad

I'd be checking the thermostat since you are having trouble with the timing of the fan. Coolant expands when its hot, so if you have brimmed the tank when its cold it will eject some and come to its natural level after you have used it.

Can you get a panel beater to plastic weld?

Rear shocks to suit a TY175 would be suitable for the Cota 247. Forks are rebuildable, you just need to get some high pressure rotary seals of matching dimensions from your local supplier.

I'd be checking your countershaft sprocket before pulling anything apart, if its worn it might be catching the chain. Next thing would be as JRSUNT has said and take the chain off and run it in gear and see if noise is affected by the clutch, which means you will have to dig further.

Is the bike moving or stopped when pulling the clutch helps?

The Beta 4 stroke is super smooth if you are going with a 4 stroke, might be a better option than the Montesa if you thought the 2 stroke was a handful.

Assuming you are an elder statesman I would get an Electric start TRS.

Are you trying to start it with the Carby choke on? Will it start once it has been started and warmed up? I would also check the plug lead is screwed in properly, if that was changed with the electronic ignition.

I kick mine left footed fine but it does have a bit of compression. I would recommend that you remove the high compression head which is fitted to the factory model and put on a low compression one like they fit to the standard model.

Silicone has a higher heat tolerance than NBR, so if you can that would be better. Both will tolerate the Glycol.

Good quality gear oil to suit a trials bike. Moving the lever location on the bars so you are pulling further out on the lever. Depending on how low low hours is 2017 is also old enough you might want to consider filing any ridges that exist in the clutch basket tabs from wear with the clutch plates.

Spark plug

EBC are ok but they are not peak performance which you seem to be after. An example of someone who does it below but you coould find someone who does it for forklifts or the like locally to you. https://villiersservices.co.uk/product/brake-shoe-re-lining-service/

It takes some time for pads to bed in and have full contact with the drum. You might want to go down the path of having pads of a suitable friction material applied to the brake shoe so you can match the diameter of your drum.

Get it rewound by a place that does small coils.

Send a self addressed envelope to Vertigo?

@lemurIf the rims are anything like most TLR's i've seen the outside looks ok but the inside has become a sacrificial anode and just flakes away.

What happens if you give the throttle a big blip when it starts revving up? Could also be starved of fuel if there is not an air leak as Lemur has suggested.

If you can't get ELF HTX740 then GRO TRANS EXTREM 75W is the go for the transmission oil from my experience, never had an issue with either.

When you pull the clutch lever in I assume you can feel the mechanism trying to activate the clutch? Also I assume you have tried riding it in a high gear with the clutch pulled in while accelerating?

On my gasgas enduro bike I went to the shop and bought a cheap ring spanner and ground the outside down until it fit. Scientific torque spec I used was almost as tight as I could do it by hand and then give the the spanner a couple of light hits with a hammer.