kurtas

Don't know but my guess is the length between the Counter shaft sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket is different between 2T and 4T.

Most likely the piston seal of the master cylinder is buggered and oil slowly bypasses as you hold pressure. I have ridden a trial ABSing the rear brake because I didn't have a rebuild kit.

Are you a previous Montesa owner? If not you may have the wrist connected to knee syndrome where you crack the throttle on every time you kick start the bike. They like to be started on zero throttle.

Looks like its off a Beta and early Betas had Paioli's.

What I would do: Really give it a good clean out with wire brush, emery etc and then basically render the whole inside with a liquid metal epoxy. Sand/grind it all back so your impeller fits, replace the seal and never speak of it again.

Isn't that a car engine oil? so you would be running friction modifiers etc explaining the clutch slip.

Get an impact driver onto it. You never want to use something to wedge a gear/basket/whatever.

learn to bend your ankle, obviously if you're leaning back you won't have to bend it as far. You need to cover the brake to save yourself going a*** over tit if you go beyond the balance point.

An 80cc bike will be hard to ride everywhere because you will need to be burning the clutch/won't have the flywheel or power to just barrel over something. TRS or GASGAS have the electric start models, will make the bike feel a fair bit lighter if you haven't spent all your energy kicking it over.

If you have stubby fingers you may find that it is difficult to fully disengage the clutch without having a tiny amount of slip. You should be able to easily push the bike backwards however even though it is slipping very slightly. Bit of a theme with the diaphragm clutch that Gasgas and others use that there doesn't seem to be the positive engagement that you get with the basket style clutch of say a Beta or Montesa.

Your mate has passed the rite of passage and can now call himself a real GasGas owner. First commandment of GasGas ownership is that: Thou shall not kick full blooded until gear has meshed 99% likely he has broken the kickstart gear, so should be an easy fix as long as he hasn't taken anything with it.

If you're getting a kick but no spark, you might have your points gap too tight.

You could probably have a go at a weld repair as it appears to be cracked far enough around the spindle that it is not completely needed for taking the load and its function would be more about retaining the spindle.

If the crank bearings are worn you should be able to feel play by pushing and pulling on the flywheel. If the piston rings are gummed up or worn they can make a tapping noise, be worth checking before splitting an engine. While you've got the barrel off you can feel for any play in the big and little end bearings as well.

Sounds to me like you’re experiencing the four stroke cough, basically every four stroke will die if you wrap the throttle on to full really quickly from idle.

I'm assuming you have a 4rt. Why are you turning the throttle very fast to "full" speed? What happens if you turn the throttle very slowly to "full" speed?

You should try cracking the banjo while holding pressure on the rear brake, quite often shifts the stubborn air.

Peter Schoene - would be worth a try. http://www.bultacoaustralia.com/

Should have 180mL per leg in the 125. i wouldn't think an extra 40mL of oil per leg would cause it to top out. If it has always been like it since you've owned it the bump stop could be the problem. If its only just happened my guess is oil. either amount wrong or weight.

I'll ask the dumb question. How much and what weight oil are you using?

I got some from local bloke here in Tassie about a month ago. He is a dealer for Independent Oils who imports it. Just have to find a bike shop etc that flogs off ELF products

Take the reservoir off the bike and use a small screwdriver or the like to push the piston in as far as possible. Then crack the banjo at the reservoir to bleed the line. It is important that you then get just the right angle on the hose when you are finished bleeding from the banjo. If its too low the swingarm will raise up and knock the banjo loose and if it is too high the exhaust will overcook the porridge. Other thing to check is that the master cylinders piston seal isn't damaged, if above doesn't help you.

Made some for the TY175 out of KX65 footpegs. Bolt on replacement +/- a bit of angle grinding to the pegs for the cheese grater originals. I wonder if the northern hemisphered motherland will see your photos the right way up?

Have had them misfire with throttle position sensor after making the rookie mistake of "adjusting the idle up" without setting the new position as the zero on the laptop. They also seem to periodically need connecting and idle position resetting as the idle slows as the bike is used.