trapezeartist

With only a little finger gap between the chain adjuster and the swing arm you'll have the chain touching the adjuster spring. The manual says 25mm, which is enough to move the chain away from the spring.

Black vinyl and do it yourself?

Good points. Also, what about the prop-stand. The spring is horribly close to the tyre. If the back wheel isn't quite aligned it could be catching. Or maybe the stand is holding on the rear spindle nut when you first flick it up, then moving up some more the first time you hit a bump. After getting rid of the engine noise of a petrol bike, you discover all sorts of other odd noises you never heard before.

I doubt it's been "trialled to death". The sort of person who buys a 200 doesn't tend to work it too hard. I'd be more concerned with what a 300 might have gone through in a previous life. Judge the bike on how it looks and sounds. Check (as best you can) the wheel, linkage and swing arm bearings. Warm it up and make sure the fan cuts in. I suppose I would ask what the rebuild actually consisted of, and who did it.

Possibly a new controller? Could someone with a 2022 model post a photo of the sticker on their controller so we can see the part number? Has anyone got the Silixcon software and tried re-programming the controller?

Like any new technology, it moves fast at first but then slows down. The step from 2019 to 2020 was pretty big. I don't think the 2022 is such a big evolution over 2021. The battery is heavy (10.5kg I think). However bear in mind that the EM weight is "ready to go". All the petrol bikes are quoted "dry" so you need to add in coolant, gearbox oil and petrol to get a true comparison.

No, I think you have it spot-on. I think the clutch (to some degree) and the tickover are basically there to woo people over from petrol. Although I'm reluctant to tell EM how to do their job, I think that's a mistake. Electric is different, and in many ways better. Embrace the difference!

I changed from an Evo 250 to an Epure Race and I love it. There is no way I would go back to petrol. The Race version has the clutch, which I don't use. The flexibility right down to zero revs takes the place of clutch slipping, and I find it better. It also has the flywheel which I have left in the heaviest configuration. Perhaps I should experiment with taking off one or two discs one day. Grip in slippery going was the only downside, but I think I've got that mastered now. If the back wheel spins, it's hard to get the grip back again. Instead a light, smooth application of throttle is the way to go, and let it plod along like a 4 stroke.

I think you're asking the impossible. All modern bikes are reliable, in the sense that they rarely break down. If you get yourself stranded, it's far more likely to be because you broke something. All modern bikes also have a few niggles at times. Conventional wisdom says that Montesas are the ones that give you "Honda quality", although the Montesa sub-forum seems to show as many problems as other manufacturers. Typical problems across all makes are bleeding brakes, thermostat failure, dodgy ignition. Don't throw out the baby with the bath water. If you have a good bike with a single problem (which it seems you probably have), solve that problem. Ask in the relevant sub-forum for specific advice.

I think you might find a Beta 250 4T is even rarer than the 200 2T. Because of that I started on a 300 4T. Although I was told it was milder than a 300 2T it was still lively enough to throw me at several rocks and trees, so I moved on. Everyone with a Montesa loves it so a 260 should be pretty OK. The only person I know who had a Tenaci Wong sold it after about 6 months. I don't know why. When I looked at it they seemed to be a lot right, but there were also a few aspects that looked cheap and under-engineered. There is also a 4 stroke air-cooled Scorpa (or Sherco, I get them confused). It's only 125 or 175 but I've seen them perform well.

Perhaps you could e more specific about your brake issues and then someone could guide you towards a simpler solution. After reading the title of your post I was going to suggest an electric bike (no carburettor, no air filter, no ignition system, no radiator, no fan, no exhaust, no gearbox). But they do have brakes (🙂) which will be just as reliable or unreliable as on your 4RT.

In my experience they're not good at answering emails, but very helpful when you get them on the phone.

Have you asked Inch Perfect? I don't know for sure but I get the impression their e-commerce stuff is not 100% up-to-date.

I carry my bike in a 2003 Citroen Berlingo car with the rear seats removed. The front wheel goes against the left B/C post and the rear wheel is about 6-9 inches from the right side. I made a wooden infill panel for the left rear footwell to keep the front wheel up to the level of the rest of the load platform (not necessary in a van version which uses a different floor).

Unless you have a knee problem or something, don't dismiss left-hand kickstarts: it's just a matter of what you are used to. When I first got my Beta it seemed a bit awkward but I quickly accustomed to it. Anyway, if the ground was sloping to the right I would stand beside the bike and use my right leg.

Don't apologise for your English: it was near perfect. I've seen a lot worse from English people.

Doughy Lampkin! Is he getting fat now he's stopped riding? 😈

EMs weigh about the same as a Montesa, so at the top of the range but not excessive. Remember ICE bike weights are quoted "dry", so add the weight of coolant, gearbox oil and fuel to get a real comparison.

I very rarely encounter queue-jumping. When it happens I think it's mostly because the queue has spread out sideways and no-one really knows which is their place in the order. More common is someone in front of me waving me through.

Or have a taste of the future and go electric. The EMs have three maps: gentle, lively and oh-my-god! so you can always have the right sort of power for the rider and the conditions. I've never ridden a 200 but everyone says how good they are for novices. Otherwise, if you must have a stink-pot, don't go above 250. Unless you become a real expert, a 280/300 won't help with anything a 250 can't do but they can get you into a whole heap of trouble.

What is a ROA Super Foxter 200?

Yes it is made from a vegetable source, but that's irrelevant. Crude oil started as rotting vegetation millions of years ago. The point is that ethanol is an alcohol (it's the alcohol in booze) and not an oil. There are some types of synthetic rubber that are resistant to the normal petroleum distillates in petrol but they don't resist ethanol well. Those rubbers may have been perfectly acceptable when there was no ethanol in petrol. They would have been specced and tested with the fuels current at the time.

I don't know whether he would ship to USA but you could try Richard Allen, http://www.allensusedtrialsspares.co.uk/.

I believe the kill switch and lanyard both work the same way, by shorting something to earth, so no they won't work in series. Connect both feed wires to the same source and both earth wires to the same point (probably on the frame). However, why do you even need to do it? When I had a 2014 Evo, I found it super easy to just lift the red plastic thingie on the lanyard for a couple of seconds to switch off. If it's because you need to hold onto the clutch because you can't get neutral, either reach across with your right hand (which was what I did) or mount the lanyard switch on the right hand side.

Really pleased for you. Welcome to the club. If you have the same twistgrip as the ePure, then the free play is adjustable. You'll find the how-to video on https://www.electric-motion.fr/en/my-em-en/instruction-videos. It's No 18.