trapezeartist

This is a trials forum, so I am commenting about electric trials bikes. The ISDE is a totally different type of event, though if you can afford to do it you can probably afford a couple of spare batteries. Electric Motion claim 3-4 hours for the ePure. I think that's conservative. I did a club trial at the weekend with four fairly long laps. It took me a total of 3 hours 40 minutes so that might be 3 hours of riding. I finished with the battery still on 62%. Each to their own, but the electric trials bike is ideal for me.

Yes, you're definitely old-fashioned. Try the latest generation (2020 onwards) Electric Motion. For my purposes, the EM is most definitely better than a petrol bike. Having said that, I do think Oset are getting left behind. They've really missed a trick when you consider that they were the market leaders in electric bikes. But they grew out of providing back-garden toys for kids and they haven't quite cottoned on to the adult market. Sur-Ron are getting rave reviews from people who have ridden them, so I think they might well gat the jump on Oset when they get into the UK market.

Personally, I don't carry anything apart from my car key (in the one and only pocket of my trials trousers). I don't fancy falling on my phone or tools, and I wouldn't use them during a trial anyway. Water is about the only thing I feel a need to carry. So far I've relied on stopping off at the car between laps, but I might get a camelbak for next summer.

Look at AMCA too. They don't sanction as many events as the ACU but their events tend to be more laid-back. If there are AMCA events in your area, they might suit you too.

I agree with Carl, it's unlikely you've done any damage. By their nature, crank seals have to be made of a material unaffected by fuel and oil. You should make a serious effort to remove surplus fuel. Assuming you don't want to remove the engine, turn the bike upside down with the spark plug out and turn the engine over slowly a couple of times. My main concern would be that you have washed the mains, big-end and bore clean of oil. If I were you I would make up a small quantity of fuel with a stupidly rich oil mix in it (10:1 maybe). Fill the float bowl with that and try to start the engine. If it starts, let the engine run slowly until the float bowl runs dry (or you choke on the fumes!). If it won't start and oils the plug, repeat with a less oily mixture. I don't know if that is necessary or how well it would work, but it's what I would do as a precaution.

That's a really interesting feature I hadn't even considered. Normally if you stop on a steep uphill with nowhere to get your left foot down, it's really awkward. I've done it so many times. In future I'll use the FRB.

I've had a couple of practice sessions with the fixed regen now. I certainly wouldn't want it every time the throttle shut off. It provides quite a lot of braking and does lock the wheel on a slippery surface. It also provides more braking than needed when just check braking to control speed on a gentle descent. It's possible to modulate braking to some degree by doing a sort of cadence braking. I am using one of John Uyehara's levers. The position of the lever under the clutch lever is good but I am having to school myself not to ride with a finger over the lever. The spring on the lever is so light that it's easy to apply the brake by mistake, usually at the most inopportune moment. I might try a thumb button instead, but I would rather find a stronger spring for the lever.

Hopefully they can do something for me. It's always good to give my business to Westcountry companies.

A couple of hours riding today and I like the shorter bars. The difference is not hugely noticeable: I just felt a bit more comfortable with the riding position. So anyone with any suggestions for getting hoses made up?

14mm off each end. Not a lot really, and people think it's perfectly normal to adjust the handlebar height and reach, so why not width? Hopefully I'll test it tomorrow so then I can report back.

i've just shortened my handlebars, which has left the clutch and front brake hoses a bit too long. Assuming I get on with the shorter bars, can anyone recommend someone who can make up some shorter hoses? (Or if I don't like them, I'll be looking for new handlebars. 🙄)

If I read you right, the little pushrod between the clutch lever and the piston in the m/c is broken in some way. In which case getting a new pushrod and adjusting it properly should solve your problem. Be sure to leave a little bit of clearance when you adjust it. Bear in mind that Betas are notorious for 'cold stick'; the clutch plates are reluctant to free off when the bike has been standing. This varies from a bit of a clonk when engaging gear, to needing to put the front wheel against something solid when engaging gear for the first time from cold. There's a huge thread in the Beta section called 'The Beta Clutch Fix', should you need it. Or you may find yours is not too bad and you find a way to live with it.

I think the answer to why EM put a light on the lanyard is "Because they can". Just like the white light at the front and the red light under the rear mudguard. It just makes the bike stand out a bit.

I carry my bike in a Berlingo and it does get filthy if it's a muddy trial. But the car is an old nail I bought for that purpose so I'm not bothered. If it was a car I cared about, I wouldn't carry the bike in it.

I've hurt my back twice (ribs, not spine) so I probably should get a back protector. But then I'd go and damage some other bit. On the whole, trials injuries are very rare.

More than enough. When I had petrol bikes I filled them to the brim and never found the need to top up part way through. I took whatever was in the can with me, just in case, but never used it. I found I got about three trials out of five litres.

I wasn't aware of a clear difference in values between the 200 and 250, but if that's so, it sort of answers your question. The 200 is £1000 better (according to enough people to influence the price). When I was looking for a modern-ish petrol bike I was persuaded by opinions so I was looking for a 200, but I couldn't find one. So I bought a 250 and was pretty happy with it.

Here's 1 bike in a Berlingo.

I'll take a couple of photos tomorrow, and post them back here asap.

Usually the route makes it easy to stop off at your van between laps. On a warm day you may want to strip off a layer after the first lap. Your bike should do a whole trial on a tankful, unless it's an unusually long lap. Some people carry a bottle of water with them, or wear a camelbak. Others just grab a drink as they pass their van.

I use a 2003 Berlingo car to carry one bike. The roof is the same height as the van but I suppose the lining reduces clearance a little bit. Certainly my roof lining is looking a bit the worse-for-wear these days. When I was looking to buy a cheap van I found that the Berlingo car was somewhat cheaper than the equivalent van. I use a folding ramp to load and unload, which makes it very easy. Especially since I bought the EM which can propel itself up the ramp (no pushing!).

There's something for everyone at Fry's Bottom. You definitely don't have to tackle anything you think is beyond your ability. I believe Zona1 is now closed. If not, it will soon.

Personally, I think the Montesa looks more cool. And I was never aware of any sort of rebel image attached to Bultaco.

After my previous post, I bought a secondhand ePure Race too. In light of this thread I changed the oil as soon as I got it. There was only a tiny bit of fur on the drain plug.

Personally I would want a bit of practice under my belt before entering. But if you do enter and have a go, remember you can always do a section but miss out a bit if you don't like it. You'll get a 5 and just go on to the next. Quite a lot of clubs run a "Gentleman's route" or green route where you just go through the begins and ends cards and do what you like in between. Ideal for a raw beginner.