trapezeartist

Thanks to the kindness of stu109, I acquired a couple of the KTM shims. I spent a while swapping between 1 shim (0.25mm) and 2 shims (0.50mm total) before settling on 2. Trying it on the drive there was still a bit of drag initially but I think that was just down to cold stick. I had a proper ride out for a couple of hours on Friday and everything worked fine. It wasn't a mega improvement; up changes are still clunky and I can't get neutral with the engine running. But I can now start the engine easily with the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in, and I can easily move the bike backwards with the clutch pulled in (both useful assets when I've just failed a section ?). I now need to check that I do still have a little bit of clearance and the thrust race isn't under any permanent load. (I think it's not because I couldn't generate any clutch slip in 5th gear even though I run with just 4 springs).

I measured the spindle as slightly over 15mm. I think it was 15.15, so 16mm will do but be a bit sloppy. I’ve only been able to find shims at nominal 15 or 16 and I don’t know what tolerances there are on those figures.

There is no need to “gather in a group” when riding at a practice area. Just do your own thing and maintain anti-social distancing. It’s no different to two golfers playing one hole and other pairs playing other holes. Or two sailors on one dinghy and other pairs of sailors on other boats on the same expanse of water.

Very kind. PM sent.

I would like to try the clutch mod shown on this video https://advrider.com/f/threads/how-to-correct-beta-clutch-drag.1375397/ in order to reduce clutch drag. I'm hoping for a little advice from someone who has already done it. What is the mechanic feeling for when he pokes the screwdriver down the middle and works the lever? Free play before the pressure plate moves? Is there anywhere convenient where I can get the shims? I've tried eBay but it seems the standard 16mm ID shim is 22mm OD but the above thread indicates 16x25. Has anyone done it with 16x22 shims?

I had forgotten the reticulated foam. I'll try to get a bit and add that in too. I find it ridiculous that a modern state-of-the-art bike should draw so much crap into the air filter. I could go at least 6 trials without even touching the filter on my Fantic 200.

I like the idea of fixing the air filter cover to the mudguard. I’ll try that. I always remove the mudguard after a trial anyway. I tried the aftermarket shield over the filter and it didn’t seem to do everything. Then I tanktaped the frame just in front of the filter (as described in the Beta UK SSDT prep guide) and that was quite effective, although not perfect.

That more-or-less is what I was advocating some time ago. On It seems to be making up his own interpretation in order to stir up an argument. There are many people with first aid skills and qualifications, and I would just like to see those skills marshalled in the best possible way for the benefit of everyone. I do agree with the ACU and AMCA that an ambulance or specific first-aiders would be an overkill at a trial. That’s why I think trials events and practice would not be putting any unreasonable strain on the NHS.

Am I the only one who has noticed the contradiction? The ACU considers trials to be sufficiently safe that the rules don't require any minimum standard for first aid and ambulance cover. Yet now they stop us riding in case someone gets hurt. It's hardly surprising of course as the whole sorry sage throughout the country (and most other countries it would seem) has been a mixture of irrational panic, do-as-I-say-and-not-as-I-do, and a total lack of joined-up thinking.

I bought an Amal one for my 4T, to give me a slower throttle. Sorry, I can't remember the details as it was a while ago.

That's interesting, and contrary to what I would have expected. Hence I found it necessary to check some other sources to see if you are right. (You are ?)

I corrected the oil level in the LH leg and it feels much better. Sag is still measuring 29% though which would seem to be a bit stiff. By way of contrast I found that the preload on the rear was not to spec. I wound on an extra 2mm to get to the baseline and 1.5 turns more for my weight. The sag is still not far short of 100mm so it looks like I need a stiffer spring. I only weigh 75kg so maybe 80kg dressed to ride.

90 deg of lock won’t do you any good as none of the tractive effort of your back wheel will be rolling the front. It will all be trying to skid the tyre sideways. Feetupfun’s photo could be a good guide, or measure any modern trials bike. Maybe you could weld on two threaded bosses and then insert a bolt in each as a lock stop. That way you could do a bit of testing before finalising.

Cheltenham Hawks run a monthly trial for mainly old bikes just outside Cheltenham, which would be about an hour from you. Golden Valley trials are just a little bit further. There may well be others closer to you as well, but that's outside my area.

Thanks for your comments thall1 and huski. Both valid points, I think. However I was thinking about it in bed this morning and I believe I made a silly error. The air gaps are supposed to be set with the fork on full bump. I forgot that and then because I couldn't get the spring out I filled the left hand leg on full droop.? So next time out in the garage I'll be trying harder to get the spring out and then hopefully refill to the correct level. I have some urgent grandfatherly duties over the next few days though, so it may be later in the week before I can do it.

Overbore sizes are generally marked as +0.020" or similar. Letters (typically A to D) are grades. Mass production isn't precise enough to make bores and pistons as accurate as they need to be. So they are measured after machining and marked accordingly. D pistons go in D bores, and so on.

You could have raised the same points about the Second World War. That went on far longer and cost far more in money and lives (we hope). In the end, every form of motorsport was better after the war than before. I hope I'm right.

I have the same problem. I'll try this suggestion.

And it was all going so well.... I dropped out the stanchions and drained the oil out of them. Both were low on oil: the right hand was 125mm below the top when it should be 65mm. The left hand should be 125mm but it was way less and I couldn't measure it. So I refilled with Putoline HPX 5W and carefully set the oil height to the spec. There were a couple of issues but I decided to park them for another day. I couldn't get the plastic tube out of the left leg (as mentioned in the other post on here https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/70417-beta-evo-left-fork-spring-stuckurgent/) but I thought I could just leave it. The preload adjuster is thoroughly seized in the cap so I will have to get a new cap and adjuster when the house arrest is over. Meanwhile there appeared to be only a tiny amount of preload, so no worries. Once it was all back together I started checking sag. I was working on my own so my measurements weren't millimetre accurate but they were good enough. I was only getting 31mm of sag which equates to 19%. Bouncing down on the front showed that it was very stiff. For comparison the rear sag measured over 100mm. The manual doesn't give a figure for rear suspension travel but I'm pretty sure it's not 300mm so it appears pretty soggy, though it seems OK subjectively. So why has the front become so stiff? Possibly there's a much stiffer spring in there, and the previous owner compensated by lowering the oil level to reduce the effect of the "air spring". I tried cracking open the caps so that the air leaked out on bump. It didn't make much difference. I'm puzzled, so now trying to borrow a slide hammer so that I can get the spring out and hopefully identify if it's a standard or fat-boy spec. I could lower the oil levels and see what that does, but it seems all wrong to try to make two wrongs = one right. Final comment: pushing down on the middle of the bike shows an extreme difference between the deflection of front and rear.

I don't think I've touched the suspension setup on my 2014 250 Evo since I got it last year. But now being under house arrest, I've cleaned and polished everything, I stood beside the bike with rag in hand defying any speck of dust to land on it, and then I thought I would see if I can do anything to improve the suspension generally. I've just been looking at the Owner's Manual and that is about as much use as a chocolate teapot. My intention is to set up the sag by adjusting preload at both ends. I've seen figures of 33% and 38%. Any other opinions? I think it's best to get the oil out of the forks and replace it as I have no idea what is in there or how much. What weight of oil do people recommend? How do you measure the correct amount? Do I have to drop the stanchions out of the triple clamp and work on them separately? Finally I will have to adjust the damper screws. What settings do people suggest? I weigh about 80kg. Thanks.

Did I even say I am going anywhere to practice? Don't be a dick - stop jumping to conclusions.

The ACU considers trials sufficiently safe that they don’t mandate any medical cover for trials. But then tell us not to practice because we will be putting pressure on the NHS. Meanwhile walkers are stepping off pavements into the road willy-billy to maintain their 2m separation.

I find it staggering that people would sell or buy trials boots that are not waterproof. It’s like having a raincoat that’s not waterproof. Or a colander with no holes in it.

I tried a number of oils in my 2014 Evo. I've now settled on Nanotrans as it gives me the best clutch.

I loved the video too. And I thought stop-allowed combined with the time limit worked well. No-stop would be a nightmare at that level. It was a real problem at the Southern Experts last year when we were told to be super strict on stopping.