trapezeartist

Possibly. I was just going on the seal kit, which came in a Braktec bag.

braktec, I think. Oh yes. The grooves were pretty crappy and took a lot of picking at with a metal scribe. Your second comment is encouraging. Depending on how it turns out, I may go to a practice ground next weekend instead of doing a trial. That way I can do the things I need to do to encourage the brake to behave rather than having to follow the route. And I can stop whenever I like to adjust the pedal and top-up the fluid.

This one just runs and runs. I got the new seals in, then had a nightmare to get it bled. Finally I think I have all the air out of it. Next problem is the massive amount of travel before the brake comes on. The bike is still on the stand with numerous bits still to be refitted so I haven't ridden it yet, but it looks as though there is too much roll back on the seals. I'm just hoping I'm wrong once I get to riding it, or maybe riding for a bit will persuade the pistons to move out a bit closer to the disc.

Sorry I can’t help, but just wondered how you like the helmet. I was tempted, but opted for a conventional Airoh in the end. The Zone 5 is about 30% heavier than the Airoh, and lots of people seemed to think that was important. I was sceptical, but decided to play safe and go with lightweight.

Americans have their fanny in a very odd place. Apparently men have one too. And you thought all the ladyboys were in Thailand! ?

Carrying a few pounds of lard might eliminate a 125 from the shopping list but I don’t think it changes the 250 v 300 debate. A 250 will be a lot more capable than you are and is never going to run out of puff. A 300 might take you to places you don’t want to go. (It’s not just a matter of 50cc. It’s the way they are tuned.)

Measuring the main dimensions is one thing. Getting the exact right profile and the right material is another. I bit the bullet and bought another kit (and some red rubber grease!).

I have just renewed the pistons and seals in the rear calliper of my Evo 250. Unfortunately I damaged one of the seals as I was putting it together. Is there a source for seals only as it seems a shame to spend another 30 odd quid when all I need is one seal?

As none of the bikes on your shortlist are 4T you’ve swerved one of the biggest sources of debate/disagreement. The other one is capacity. I would say definitely 250, unless you can find a good Beta 200. 125s are meant for youth riders and seem to be very buzzy (I confess I haven’t ridden one). Conversely 280/290/300 are intended for experts and tuned accordingly. There ability to throw you at bits of scenery goes far beyond the extra few cc. Make really doesn’t matter, except that a good local dealer for one make might swing you that way. Just buy something that is in good condition and well maintained.

The AMCA option is a bit less bureaucratic. Join an AMCA club and that's it. Around your way you've got Golden Valley and Cheltenham Hawks. (Although Golden Valley is a classic club they accept modern bikes ridden by riders over 50.) For maximum choice, I'm a member of an ACU club and an AMCA club and I have an ACU registration (they don't call it a licence).

Hi Nige I should never have sold that bike.? I thought about doing it your way but didn’t have an assistant to provide the extra hands. Also tilting the master cylinder would make it awkward to maintain the fluid level without another assistant squinting in fluid from a syringe. Do you put the cap back on when doing it? I thought about getting another cap, drilling it and putting in a fill tube with araldite. Then pressure filling it like that.

Yes to those, and that’s how I finally got to where I am now. The bike is back together and the brake feels just about OK. A trial in the next few days will confirm or not. But what a crazy idea to just loosen a banjo bolt instead of having a proper bleed nipple. All it would require from Beta would be a small mod to the air box and the use of a banjo bolt with nipple.

No wonder the job is termed “bleeding” because it must be cause of more expletives relating to blood than any other. I knew it was going to be difficult because I’d already read all the other posts here. I really tried to avoid breaking into the hydraulics but in the end I had to remove and split the calliper to solve the sticking pistons. I tried reverse bleeding: no result. I tried pumping like you would with a car: no result. I went back to reverse bleeding, did lots of tapping on the calliper to dislodge any bubbles, and got the brake nice and low so any bubbles should rise easily. Finally I tried cracking open the banjo on the master cylinder while giving it a pump, and after a couple of goes I’ve got a pedal of sorts. I haven’t yet reassembled it to running order but I think I’ll have an operational brake, but with a lot of travel. Not ideal. What sort of engineer designed such a crap system? The banjo is such an obvious air trap yet it has no proper means of bleeding. Does anyone know if there is a bleedable banjo bolt available that is low-profile enough to clear the air Box? (The bike’s a 2014 Evo 2T, btw.) Rant over. I shall now go back to the Christmas sherry and nuts.

Riding will enhance your fitness, so it’s a self-curing problem. And as you get better you’ll find that staying on the pegs is a lot less effort than falling off, lifting and pushing.

I’ve never seen a horse with footpegs. Pregnant or otherwise. What does a pregnant horse feel like?

50 years! I thought I might have a record at 47 (and 44 years not throwing my leg over a bike of any sort). If you’re passably fit, the old bones will have no probs at all. And your wallet should barely notice: £1000-3000 for your bike. £15 entry fees. 5 litres of fuel lasts 3 or 4 trials. For sure, try before you buy, but if you decide not to go ahead after your taster session, I will have serious doubts over your sanity?. Trials is not just the most fun you can have with your trousers on, it’s also the most cost-effective.

That rather answers your original question then.

Bienvenidos casolagas. Moto bonita .?

I agree with you almost entirely. My only disagreement is with the word “only”. Sailing is much the same. I’ve chatted with world champions in the bar after a race, and picked their brains on technique and boat set up. They couldn’t have been more genuine, friendly and helpful. (They wouldn’t have felt any more threatened than Toni Bou would feel about me now.?)

I take the point about modulating a foot brake. What with a stiff boot and a stiff sole, it’s hard to know if you’re on the pedal, let alone how hard you’re pushing it. I’ve thought about the problem a lot and finally concluded the solution is to grow an extra hand. Unfortunately there is one flaw.

I think you have your answer, rick1962uk. ?

Seems like a good plan. But if you want to use the one you’ve bought, you’ll have to cut out and drill a bracket to attach it to, then carefully work out and mark the exact position where it needs to go, then get someone to weld it on. Then clean up and paint.

I have been wondering about using one of those 1 litre auxiliary fuel tanks as a drinks bottle.

That’s an interesting proposal. So you’re suggesting 1 mark for a feet-up stop, and 5 for a foot-down stop? It seems quite a good idea to me but you’re still left trying to differentiate marginal movement from a momentary stop.

I put in Nanotrans and it is much better. I’ve got it adjusted so that one-finger slipping is comfortable and not too big a stretch. My only remaining gripe is that gear changes still need a four finger pull back to the grip. Leaving fingers between the lever and grip gives some pretty ugly clunky gear changes.