trapezeartist

I think so, but due to other activities getting in the way I won’t be out on the bike until next weekend. It certainly feels much better when I try it in the garage. If it Is cured, it’s down to adjustment at the lever/master cylinder. I found I was able to let the lever out much further than expected so there is now more travel before I trap my othe fingers against the handlebar grip. It should be enough although it’s now a bit of a stretch for my fingers. I still can’t help feeling that a short clutch lever would be a great help. Something like the two-finger levers they put on mountain bikes. Then the unused fingers would be beyond the end of the lever and not getting in the way.

Welcome. Great username! And yes, I know Binegar pretty well.

I don’t carry any spares or tools. Reasons? Failures are very rare, and most things that could happen will take too long to fix anyway. IF it happens, I’ll retire from this trial and look forward to the next. The only work I have ever done mid-trial has been very minor adjustments, when I stopped off at my car for the tools. Falling off is bad enough without the risk of getting a tyre lever between the ribs. These comments don’t apply if you are doing the Scott or the SSDT of course.

That’s a bit interesting, Dan. Both the rubber gaiters were split so I got replacements. The kit included the outer pushrod (that word again!) and the spring. I didn’t have springs and didn’t know I was supposed to! It was easy enough to work out where they went, so now I have them fitted.

Terminology! I meant the pushrod in the master cylinder. Not the pushrod from slave cylinder to clutch. Un fortunately I won’t be testing the result in action tomorrow; crocked my back!?

There was absolutely no air in the top of the system so I checked the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder too. None there either. I found I could adjust the return stop out a little bit to move the lever away from the grip. After re-adjusting the pushrod to suit I gained a little bit of extra travel and that’s just enough for the clutch to clear properly. I could do with a bigger left hand now though. I realised while poking about that the 3mm of easy motion in the master cylinder is the movement before the piston covers the drilling’s from the reservoir. I’ve pushed the adjustment to the absolute limit to get the maximum piston movement. It seems OK in the garage but the final proof will be in the trial on Sunday.

How long between washing and “no spark”. My 4T would never start immediately after washing, presumably due to water on the electrics. I would just spray everything (except the brakes!) with WD40 and put the bike away. By the time I wanted to start it again a few days later, it would. In the normal position the fuel solenoid only passes fuel when the engine is running. That’s why it has the second position, to fill the carb with a dead engine.

I had wondered about air in the system, though the transition from the 3mm of almost free movement to proper actuation is quite abrupt. Not like compressing air. What is the best procedure for bleeding the clutch?

Having ironed out all the other problems on my new-to-me 2014 Evo 250, my one remaining issue is clutch drag. I dropped the oil level to the bottom of the window and did the “Beta clutch fix”. No change. On closer inspection of the master cyl and lever, I realised that the clutch frees off if pulled in hard against the grip, but under normal riding my middle finger is trapped under the ball-end and stops the lever travelling that far. The lever is adjusted to have less than 1mm free play at the pushrod. However the rod inside the master cylinder moves about 3mm before the load becomes significant, presumably because it has to move that far before it starts pushing against the clutch springs. Is all this normal? At the moment the lever is Apico, but it looks about the same shape as standard. Is there a lever available that curls forward far enough to leave room for my middle finger? Or should the clutch fully disengage with less lever movement?

No. Just so I can dry them in the garage and not have to stink out the utility room.

You must have an even worse sense of smell than I do. Unfortunately SWMBO’s olfactory faculties are pretty sharp.

Sorry for the slightly tangential thought. We all know Americans call petrol “gas”, but what do they call gas? ?

Actually I don’t think the sport does enough to attract youngsters. Of course there will be a massive dropout rate and problems with cost and parental commitment, but every kid bouncing around on a scooter, skateboard or bmx is a potential trials rider. Somehow the sport needs to be put in front of them, to try to draw more in. Nor do we do enough to attract new adult riders. Most people don’t even know trials exist.Unfortunately it demands more of the hard-pressed club committee members.

Does anyone here use a boot dryer? Which type is recommended? My research has found 2 basic types, with many variations: Heated inserts. Something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-Core-Shoe-Boot-Dryer-Electric-Warmer-Heater-Disinfectant-Dryer-Black-Yellow/123470431372?hash=item1cbf69448c:m:m9LtIC_3vRWyqVThh9RMuDg. This is the cheaper and lower power consumption solution (about 20w) but works at a higher temperature. These are generally shown with trainers in the photos. The wire sticking out the back of the heel may be more difficult down in the depths of trials boots. Blown air, like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Portable-Folding-Timing-Electric-Shoe-Boot-Dryer-Heater-Warmer-Home-UK/202510022400?hash=item2f2689b700:g:4KgAAOSwq2xb9TY5. More expensive and uses a lot more power (about 200w) but the air is only about 40deg. These too are usually demonstrated with shoes so the air outlet goes right to the toe. On trials boots I think it would only reach to the heel.

Why don’t I? Because I didn’t know such a thing existed. I’ll look it up.

Not the greatest photos. Sorry.

My 50% optimism was about right. It about 50% worked. The top surface of the plastic thingie was very wet and a bit muddy, so it had stopped all that going into the air filter. On the other hand there was plenty of dirt in the filter and a little bit of wetness at the bottom point. I don’t expect it to live more than half a dozen trials, and I certainly won’t be paying another £12.99 for a piddly bit of plastic. I’ll hunt around for something of the right thickness and stiffness and make my own.

I think I remember it. We had lunch in a local bar there once on the way to Granada. Funny place (if I’ve got the right village); one of those where you check to see how many fingers the locals have on each hand?.

Almeria is a big place. Whereabouts?

It might be a week or so before I have it in pieces again to take a photo. And I got no info at all from the supplier. The piece of plastic has three holes that roughly correspond to the rear airbox mounting screws and the airbox cover screw. After a bit of gentle filing, I got it attached on the two main screws. When I put the seat on, the plastic poked out the sides, so I marked it, took it all apart and trimmed off the surplus. On reassembly the plastic sheet rests on the four knobs on the airbox. The sheet is flat whereas the seat is curved so the seat has to be pushed down pretty hard to get the screws in. It went eventually though and then I had to put on the airbox cover which was also a bit of a fiddle. I'm not sure if I'll be riding this weekend. If I do, I'll report back next week. If not, the answers will come a week later. I'm about 50% optimistic that it will be successful, and fitting and removal should be easier in the future once the plastic has relaxed into place. But it would all be unnecessary if Beta made a better airbox in the first place.

The clear plastic cover arrived. The most expensive bit of plastic I've ever bought! There was no guidance on how to fit it but I worked it out. The fixing holes needed adjusting and there was quite a lot of material to be trimmed off the sides. Even then it was awkward to fit, but it's on now and awaiting the opportunity to test it.

Looking is quick and easy. Removing, washing, drying, oiling and refitting is messy and more time-consuming. I’ve just decided to put my money where my mouth is, so I’ve ordered a clear plastic cover. I’ll report back in a week or two.

I just tried it, and I see what you mean. Definitely a setup error by someone. I’d never noticed it before because I’ve always found the search function on forums (including this one) to be hopelessly hit-and-miss. Instead I use Google and prefix my search term with “trials central”.

I misunderstood you. I didn’t realise you only wanted something for washing. I really don’t think washing is the issue though. It’s riding. My 40yo Fantic would go at least six trials between filter cleans. Yet a modern Beta sucks in mud, water and small twigs as soon as you ride it through a muddy puddle! I’ve just cleaned out my air filter after just a couple of hours riding (admittedly in wet and muddy conditions) and it was filthy. I had taped over the grilles in the seat for washing. I think I’m going to have to take a punt on the clear cover.

Something like this https://www.ewbay.co.uk/itm/DAB-PRODUCTS-BETA-EVO-AIR-FILTER-COVER-CLEAR-2009-2019-MODELS/233052620375?hash=item364304c657:g:JpIAAOSwSK1bF9Ku ? I haven’t bought one yet because I can’t work out from the photo how it will work. And it seems a bit pricey for a flat piece of plastic. There’s also this, which seems a bit implausible as a means of keeping water out but is a nice little bit of bling if your existing screw looks like the one in the photo (as mine does!). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BETA-EVO-AIR-FILTER-BOX-PLUG-SCREW-SEAT-BOLT-AIRBOX-COVER/292925442760?hash=item4433b78ac8:g:-d4AAOSwwARat9Tf