trapezeartist

One washer wasn't enough. I've now added a second washer and swapped the M8x12 screw to M8x16. It's now much better than standard.

Some people advocate dragging the brake to get it really hot, and then throwing cold water over it. Personally I would take out the pads and rub the friction surfaces on a piece of 180 grit wet'n'dry. Then run the wet'n'dry on the disc. Then clean both with brake cleaner before reassembling.

And an airbox that doesn't hoover up mud, water and leaves. On my Fantic 200 I cleaned the air filter about once every 6 or 8 rides. On the Beta, every time! And a notch on the bottom right-hand side of the airbox so you can put a bleed nipple at the highest point in the rear brake hydraulics.

The propstand on the ePure holds the bike too upright so I have found I have to search out a low spot in the ground to place the stand on when parking up. It's a bit of a pain in the posterior so I went looking for a solution. Now I've put a washer under the inboard fixing to the swinging arm. It seems to be better in the garage, so I'm hopeful for the trial tomorrow. If it turns out to be better but not enough, I'll try two washers but that will need a slightly longer screw as there isn't a lot of thread engagement. Tyre clearance is also extremely tight. I don't know what can be done about the spring/tyre clearance but I've cut off the redundant spring lug and that definitely helps. Before, during and after photos below. The photos also illustrate the crappy quality of the paint. This is an 8 month-old bike! But I suppose that's down to Sherco who supply the stand, and not EM.

Absolutely agree. Though my top preference would be a map specifically for super-slippery stuff. Alternatively, a means of deleting the red map altogether. So one push would take you from blue to green. I'm sure I could find uses for that mid-section, but the thought of accidentally giving the button one push when I intended two gives me the willies.

Agreed. An extra inch in the wiring would be good. However, it does go lock-to-lock without pulling on the wire so I suppose they would say it's just right.

It doesn't have water in the display, does it? Mine picked up a little bit of damp, which started as condensation on the inside of the screen, then went to total non-function, then dried out a bit and the display came back but permanently on 100% whatever the battery state was. Based on my old and new displays, EM appear to have altered the way the wires come out of the potting resin to try to reduce cracking of the resin and consequent leaks.

As dgshannon said, there is no engine braking. You can get a fixed regenerative braking button which plugs straight in. I've been told that provides braking roughly equivalent to engine braking on a petrol bike. I'm still making up my mind whether to get one.

Welcome to the future. The instant torque is lovely, but easy to spin up the back wheel in slippery conditions. I've a way to go before I can say I'm on top of that, but maybe not such a problem in Texas.

Clever idea.

You need your crack seal doing? The mind boggles! 😇

Some clubs run a "Gentleman's" route; ie pass through the start and end gates and go where you like in-between. They're good for beginners because you can try to do the full easy route but dodge any little bits you're not happy about. As you've entered a practice trial no-one will be marking you so simply avoid the bits you don't like. It's preferable to missing out a section altogether.

There's a lot of clever electronics in the Electric Motion, and it's taken them a few years to perfect it. Beta (and all others) now have to develop a motor/battery/control system to match EM before they dare to launch.

I observed the Southern Experts a couple of years ago when that was a strictly enforced No-Stop. The stops were just about impossible to judge; I'm sure we were harsh on some people and lenient on others, even though trying to be fair and objective. A lot of riders weren't happy because the sections were tight and really demanded a lot of hopping and stopping. At that level, I think Stop Allowed (while feet-up) and some sort of time limit is the way to go.

I changed the grips on mine recently, and I think the throttle tube was open.

Only 25 years!

I spent a bit of time working on the new bike this weekend and finished with a generous spray of silicone everywhere (except the tyres and brakes 😁 ). It is GLEAMING!

1. Chain tensioner. I phoned Inch Perfect for advice on this. Apparently there's a special tool (not surprised) but it can just about be done without. With the aid of a couple of lumps of wood, a Workmates and a trolley jack I managed to get the tensioner on with the hook end not hooked around the tensioner arm. Then the final easy bit (well, easier) was to pull the hook onto the arm with a spring hook. I think I may get the special tool before next time! 2. I was just being a bit thick. The drain plug and sight glass are on the inside of the case facing the right hand side of the bike. Access isn't great and it would be messy to drain the oil with the bash plate in place so I took that off. Putting it back is a bit fiddly because all four fixing points rely on loose nuts, but on the positive side the sight glass is very readable, unlike my old Beta where I was reduced to just using it as a level plug. Given the simplicity of an electric bike, I was surprised to find it's not as easy to work on as I expected. No doubt I'll find all the shortcuts in time though. I hope this helps any other new EM owners who might be caught out like I was.

I've just bought a slightly secondhand Epure Race. First ride yesterday and I absolutely loved it. It's the Mutt's nuts, the dog's danglies, the canine's gonads, and every other euphemism you can think of. I'm now just starting on working through everything, cleaning, adjusting and learning, so I have a couple of questions to start off with: Does anyone have a clever way of refitting the chain tensioner? It came off with a mighty ping and looks like it will be a swine to get back on. Where is the oil drain plug and level window? So far I've only found the filler. Thanks.

As it happens I'm using GT85 instead of WD40 at the moment (because they were selling it cheap in Aldi!). Perhaps I'll stick with it. And silicone spray is already on my shopping list. Thanks.

It has been my habit to use WD40 to finish cleaning my bike. So I wash it, dry it, then go over everything with a light spray of WD40 and absorbent paper. It certainly takes off the last film of grime nicely, but I’m beginning to suspect it of slowly making the paint and stickers lose their gloss. Could I be right? How do others get a nice finish? I’ve just got a new bike so would like to start off doing it right.

Problemas?

Everything I see and read tells me that the current model is fully competitive. I’m less convinced about 2/3 year-old models but I don’t have enough information to be definitive. I have no idea about future values. If I could predict future values of anything I’d be a lot richer than I am.😀

Ouch, that looks nasty. I'm guessing it's just the lighting that makes it look like brass (unless someone has invented magnetic brass 😀 ). Presumably the oil is lubricating the clutch and whatever reduction gears link the motor to the drive sprocket. As you're not clonking gears in and out I would expect negligible swarf, much less than a conventional gearbox.

That's the way I saw it too. But a 0.25mm shim has improved my clutch.