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turbofurball

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Everything posted by turbofurball
 
 
  1. It depends on the part, I'm in Catalunya and a couple of hours drive from most of the factories so mostly I just go into a local motorbike shop and order anything there for the next day (except for August because nothing happens here in August). I've used motocrosscenter.com for some parts, as well as the ones you've listed, but again for motocrosscenter I can go to their shop if I have problems with something (however the petrol cost is more than postage and they don't like to mix the online and in store purchases).
  2. That's a LOT of bike for a new-to-trials rider ... still, I hope you're having fun and that you get good use form your bike when it's all done up
  3. You mentioned above that there is fan controller in the CDI unit, which may well be different for an older and far more basic bike
  4. That doesn't have anything more than servicing information on it, it's the workshop manual that's needed (which I don't have a copy of, lol)
  5. Mmm, my current commuter bike is like that (Kawasaki 650), it's just a surprise that the 250 would be too ... as for the torque spec, I'd be on team "just do it up tight"
  6. Is it not like the TY175, ie. 2 small bolts holding a retaining plate?
  7. If that's what you *can* see, I wonder what you can't! When I got my TY175 it had been "restored", I only had to completely rebuild everything (though the engine is still on the to-do list) to make it rideable and competition-ready (just in time to move to a place where I no longer compete, lol)
  8. I saw your other thread after that reply!
  9. Hello from Catalunya, welcome to the forums
  10. Hola Paulo, I would add that if you only just bought the bike it's worth changing the oil, even if the previous owner says they did it. Where are you?
  11. Hello fellow Sherco 250 owner, welcome to the forum and I hope you have a lot of fun with your new bike
  12. The ATF is a good alternative, and really helps with the sticky clutch - I tried switching back to normal oil and it went back to sticking after only a week, switched back to ATF again and it's only a bit sticky after 2 weeks. FWIW I use 50:1 full synthetic 2 stroke oil for my TY175 and it hasn't caused problems (it was rattly and needing a rebuild when I bought it ... I think 5 years ago ... and it's still rattly and needing a rebuild, lol)
  13. Old trials bikes have sticky clutches, especially when they've been sitting for a while. What I do: 1. Change the oil for Dexron III ATF fluid 2. Start the bike, once warmed up a bit give it a push to start rolling and drop it into 1st (with the the clutch in) 3. Ride around with the clutch in until it frees off 4. Give it a good workout, through all the gears, slipping the clutch, get it nice and hot 5. Change the oil for fresh Dexron III 6. Enjoy a free clutch next time (though if it's been sitting for more than a couple of weeks it'll still be a bit sticky again)
  14. The 2002 Gasgas TXTPro uses DOT4, yeah. For gearbox oil I use Dexron 3 ATF fluid, really helps with sticky clutches.
  15. Well, you don't need the speedo for the MOT or for riding trials, lol Don't be too eager to get another bike, you can learn a lot on this one! As for what next, that depends on what type of riding you want to do - I went from a modern bike (that I had for a year) to twinshocks, you might want to go the other way, and the choice might be dictated by where you are. Best to just get riding time in and make decisions later
  16. They're decent enough bikes, a little heavy by modern standards but good for learning. You might have problems finding some spares. The wires were probably cut so the bike could just have a plate for a competitor number up front, most people in the UK don't run lights on their bikes because you can get a "daylight MOT" (or they're never registered at all, and only used on private land). As for the thread, if the nut is molded into the cover (don't know, never had one of these myself) the best thing would be to get a helicoil fitted. Anywho, welcome to the forum and I hope you get lots of enjoyment out of your bike
  17. It's best to not keep a swear jar in the room when working on brakes, even for patient people
  18. On 125s it's not unusual to drop to a 10 tooth front sprocket, definitely worth a go! (you can go down to 9 from there too, but that shortens the life of the chain a lot in my experience)
  19. I would counter that by saying that after using WD40 on my chain (and literally nothing else, including water, paraffin, or other oils) it still looks wet and oily for about a week after. I've only ever used light oils like GT85, Wurth's equivalent to WD40, and two kinds of dry lubes, on trials chains ... the only chain I've replaced on an off-road bike in the last 5 years was an unbranded chinese one that kept stretching, the rest are still going fine.
  20. Having previously worked in a commercial vehicle garage, you couldn't pay me enough to have the smell of diesel in my garage at home, lol
  21. Yeah, the issue I had with that was the samples were left in liquid WD40 for hours, when you're spraying it the part that harms o-rings is going to evaporate off very quickly. I should have noted above, when I say I use lots of WD40 I mean I really do soak it!
  22. I lift the bike, pop an old cereal packet between the chain and tyre so as to avoid overspray, and give it a generous quantity of WD40 which flushes out a lot of muck as well as oiling it (I tried with other products but found they didn't remove nearly as much). Because of where I live I rarely have to clean the bike, so over time the chain gets a bit gummy; for that I use a squirty bottle of heater paraffin (it's pretty much odourless) and a toothbrush twice around so it comes up clean, wipe it dry-ish with a rag, and then add more WD40 ... same goes for the odd occasion I actually wash the bike. I do the same on the o-ring chain on my Tango, and for the road bikes I clean with the same paraffin and use a hardier chain lube after. They've all lasted very well so far.
  23. My '99 Sherco basically came with a poster when new, the "manual" was a table in the middle with a list of the important numbers. Presumably the assumption is that if you buy such a specialised machine you already know how to maintain it!
  24. Absolutely that, could be 1.5K for one that's been prettied up by someone who knows how to paint metal but nothing about making a bike good to ride, or it could be 6K because every trick in the book has been pulled out and it now weighs 80kg and rides like a modern bike
 
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