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jackman290

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About jackman290

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  • Bike
    2015 Sherco 290

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  • Location
    Hamilton Ontario
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. I have had good results with 400ml of Maxima 80wt 👍
  2. Something else you could consider is stepping up to a larger master cylinder to push more fluid volume? I have tiny hands as well and have S3 digit levers on my stock 290. I really like them but I don’t know if they actually change the lever action (I had no reason to change mine other than “I want them”). Maybe try the long lever again, shorten the pin slightly as mentioned above, then move the master cylinder closer to the fork tubes so there’s less pressure required to pull the lever in at the very end of the lever? I’m no pro, or even novice, but I hope these ideas can help P.S. - You may have won the father of the year award already! Very nice looking bike
  3. It sounds like you need a water pump seal. Hopefully the pump shaft is still in good shape and can be reused. Check Jim’s vid for some great info: 1:30 into it
  4. I would recommend heating them with a propane torch and knocking them out with a socket ? If you have a bench vise large enough, you can use it as a press to push them out and push the new ones in
  5. I too installed a new tensioner with brute force and it worked out (and no blood!). Just be careful the spring doesn’t pinched between the bushing and tensioner arm, I ruined the original spring that came with the new tensioner because I didn’t realize it was pinched - which bent it. I reused the old spring and payed closer attention to the installation and it worked mint. That spring sure is a vicious little bugger..!
  6. jackman290

    Oil Brand

    I don’t have a vertigo, but I found motul 710 worked better in my old Scorpa SY250. The 800 has a higher flashpoint and wasn’t self cleaning the spark plug. i switched to the 710 and no longer had the plugs frequently fouling up. I use 710 in my ‘15 Sherco and have had no problems, but maybe someone else will chime in and advise otherwise?
  7. Hello hello, I am not a Sherco tech, but perhaps your bike hasn’t been fitted with the return fuel line from the fuel pump? Wild shot in the dark but I thought I would post up this useful link just in case: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/2010-2011-sherco-preparation I realize your bike is a 2012, so this should already be done, but perhaps the inline check valve from the gas return line is installed backwards and it’s forcing in extra fuel even when the float valve is closed? One other thing I can add is that you should make sure your air-box-to-carb isn’t half on/distorted at the carb air-inlet. This happened to me recently and luckily I caught it in time before engine damage (hopefully! Time will tell!) Probably not your issue seeing as it feels like it’s getting more fuel than air.. I’m sure that someone with more Sherco experience than I have will chime in soon, but I thought I would throw out some ideas in the meantime ? I hope you get it going! So far this bike has been the best bike I've ever owned. Good luck on your enduro rebuild, you should post up some pics! ? edit: check this write up as well regarding the fuel piping return line, a few paragraphs down from the top. Unfortunately they don’t have any pics of it but perhaps this is indeed your issue?: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/blog/2013/09/a-closer-look-at-the-2014-sherco/
  8. jackman290

    Spark plug cap

    It is my understanding that the resistance in the circuit will give longer spark dwell time and also protects the CDI from harmonics getting into the module, which could wreak havoc on the engine timing. I’m not saying it will not run with zero resistance, but it could be a gamble with expensive electronics. This is confirmed by Steve at motoplat ? Just wanted to spread the word
  9. jackman290

    Spark plug cap

    I would recommend that you pull the old cap back off and check it with a multimeter to make sure it’s not a resistor cap as well ? If the HT lead is long enough, you may be able to cut it back 1/4” and screw your cap back on to it. Worth a shot
  10. Yep, I too would recommend saving your original killswitch if there’s nothing wrong with it, and just rewrite your new one the same way you remove the old one. (You wouldn’t be wrong to just cut the wires and add your new switch, but for the extra 10 minutes of work, I’d just replace the whole deal) ? One wire from your kill switch goes to the frame ground bolt, and the other goes to a single spade connector off the CDI ?
  11. That looks fantastic! Great work!
  12. Fantastic idea, I will heed this advice! I had a hard time getting the tank back on (over the wire harness and CDI stuff), so I heated the bottom of the tank with a heat gun and it now fits without stressing any components underneath ?
  13. Here’s a shot of it with the new chain and sprockets. I wrapped the front fender with some 3m carbon fibre I had laying around because the original had some serious bend-marks/creases. The heat gun is key. Timed the new stator with a timing light and she fired up on the first kick She’s like a new bike again (it actually looks nicer than my 2015 lol) The drive sprocket still has some wobble play to it, but it’s hardly noticeable once the chain is installed and tensioned. The next big plan for this bike is an engine rebuild due to play in the main bearings/connecting rod. (Followed by new tires)
  14. I just fitted the new Talon front sprocket to my uncles 290, and it still has some wobble/play to it. It sounds like that's just the norm from the replies above, the shaft isn't warn on this one.
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