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About jackman290

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  • Bike
    2015 Sherco 290

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  • Location
    Hamilton Ontario
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  1. jackman290

    Handlebar Rise

    Hey Mat, you can make your own with some flatbar and longer bolts. Or, apico and CSP make the same thing. I put a set of S3 risers on my 290 and they can also move the bars slightly forwards or backwards. I think it brought the rise up to 1-1.5” if I recall correctly. You don’t need to replace your bars unless you absolutely want to (I didn’t). I can definitely recommend the s3 risers from personal experience: https://shop-s3.com/gb/home/51-adjustable-handlebar-clamps-s3.html hope it helps! I can’t seem to find any pictures of when I had them mounted on my bike, sorry
  2. Just to add to what the others have said, I have recently found that removing the piston all together and filling it slowly/jostling the brake hose to really help. Then just put the piston/clip back in and work the lever slowly for a bit. It helps if you are able to hold the piston(s) completely pressed in with a bit of wood so any oil transfer doesn’t move the pistons. Worth a shot
  3. Hey Waynetod, I'm trying to find a replacement brake pedal for my uncle's 06 tys125f, can you please give me any sources you may have to order one? Thanks!
  4. Sounds like you’ll be up and riding in no time once your parts arrive. The grease may have swollen the seals? I think you’re on the right path with just lubricating the seals/pistons with clean brake fluid prior to installation. Let us know how you make out
  5. Hi Mat, I’ve only had to reseal 1 front caliber on my old scorpa sy250, but they have the same caliper (for the most part). I am by no means a specialist, but I found that splitting the caliper in half made it very easy to push in the new pistons using a vice with a soft plastic jaw on it (soft wood would work too). There is an oring that seals the two caliper halves if I recall correctly, and will likely be reusable when you put the two halves of the caliper back together. Just throwing out an idea if you haven’t tried it. Another good idea I can pass on is to remove the pads from the caliper once you’re ready to bleed it, and put a piece of wood between the pistons - in case it leaks, it won’t contaminate your brake pads. Definitely block the pistons so that you don’t push them past the seals when bleeding (if caliper is removed from bike). I was so cautious bleeding my front brake and still managed to contaminate the pads with a very small amount of brake fluid from the bleeder nipple (not good, lol). oh, and make sure you put the pistons in with the flat face inward. If put in backwards it won’t have the same surface area, and also I believe one side of the piston has a chamfered edge while the other side is flat and may be part of your problem as to why the seals were nicked? I hope this helps. Disregard this message if you’ve tried all that. Good luck
  6. I have had good results with 400ml of Maxima 80wt ?
  7. Something else you could consider is stepping up to a larger master cylinder to push more fluid volume? I have tiny hands as well and have S3 digit levers on my stock 290. I really like them but I don’t know if they actually change the lever action (I had no reason to change mine other than “I want them”). Maybe try the long lever again, shorten the pin slightly as mentioned above, then move the master cylinder closer to the fork tubes so there’s less pressure required to pull the lever in at the very end of the lever? I’m no pro, or even novice, but I hope these ideas can help P.S. - You may have won the father of the year award already! Very nice looking bike
  8. It sounds like you need a water pump seal. Hopefully the pump shaft is still in good shape and can be reused. Check Jim’s vid for some great info: 1:30 into it
  9. I would recommend heating them with a propane torch and knocking them out with a socket ? If you have a bench vise large enough, you can use it as a press to push them out and push the new ones in
  10. I too installed a new tensioner with brute force and it worked out (and no blood!). Just be careful the spring doesn’t pinched between the bushing and tensioner arm, I ruined the original spring that came with the new tensioner because I didn’t realize it was pinched - which bent it. I reused the old spring and payed closer attention to the installation and it worked mint. That spring sure is a vicious little bugger..!
  11. jackman290

    Oil Brand

    I don’t have a vertigo, but I found motul 710 worked better in my old Scorpa SY250. The 800 has a higher flashpoint and wasn’t self cleaning the spark plug. i switched to the 710 and no longer had the plugs frequently fouling up. I use 710 in my ‘15 Sherco and have had no problems, but maybe someone else will chime in and advise otherwise?
  12. Hello hello, I am not a Sherco tech, but perhaps your bike hasn’t been fitted with the return fuel line from the fuel pump? Wild shot in the dark but I thought I would post up this useful link just in case: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/2010-2011-sherco-preparation I realize your bike is a 2012, so this should already be done, but perhaps the inline check valve from the gas return line is installed backwards and it’s forcing in extra fuel even when the float valve is closed? One other thing I can add is that you should make sure your air-box-to-carb isn’t half on/distorted at the carb air-inlet. This happened to me recently and luckily I caught it in time before engine damage (hopefully! Time will tell!) Probably not your issue seeing as it feels like it’s getting more fuel than air.. I’m sure that someone with more Sherco experience than I have will chime in soon, but I thought I would throw out some ideas in the meantime ? I hope you get it going! So far this bike has been the best bike I've ever owned. Good luck on your enduro rebuild, you should post up some pics! ? edit: check this write up as well regarding the fuel piping return line, a few paragraphs down from the top. Unfortunately they don’t have any pics of it but perhaps this is indeed your issue?: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/blog/2013/09/a-closer-look-at-the-2014-sherco/
  13. jackman290

    Spark plug cap

    It is my understanding that the resistance in the circuit will give longer spark dwell time and also protects the CDI from harmonics getting into the module, which could wreak havoc on the engine timing. I’m not saying it will not run with zero resistance, but it could be a gamble with expensive electronics. This is confirmed by Steve at motoplat ? Just wanted to spread the word
  14. jackman290

    Spark plug cap

    I would recommend that you pull the old cap back off and check it with a multimeter to make sure it’s not a resistor cap as well ? If the HT lead is long enough, you may be able to cut it back 1/4” and screw your cap back on to it. Worth a shot
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