section swept

Did you see the Rickman?

I once...and never to be repeated..lost my wallet, I had just checked under the bonnet of my car before leaving work for home. I used to keep my wallet in my jacket outside top pocket ( it was an anorak type jacket), which I was wearing. Having got in the car and driven about 10 miles I glanced down but couldn’t see my wallet, I patted the top pocket hoping to feel a bulge but nothing! My mouth went dry, I imagined phoning the credit card companies to put a stop on my cards, I imagined some tea leaf spending the £15 cash in the wallet then setting about the credit cards having a spending spree. I arrived home and shot upstairs ignoring my wife’s welcome, I desperately wanted to find that wallet on my bedside table....no not there! Bugger and double bugger!!! I went downstairs and explained what had happened, I put my head in my hands about to have a hizzy fit...bingo....look under the bonnet...hey presto...there nestling on the edge of the inner wing was my wallet...where it had enjoyed a 25 mile trip perched perilously close a void and potentially falling through the engine bay onto the road and goodness knows what would have happened to it....was I relieved...no more top pocket used for the wallet storage,oh no!??‍♂️??

Blow me down, you should be a detective...what was I thinking of. Still at least you took the time to read my piece??Thanks.

This is probably likely.

The Zundapp Trials bikes have recently been a subject of many posts in the previous weeks. There is also a Rickman mentioned, it like yours is more of an enduro come scrambles machine, unless it’s very special and been converted to trials. You now own a very rare bike....please post photos?Have a look at Classic Trials section and specifically Zundapp Trials.

It’s nearly always the same, the advert blurb usually has at least one spelling cook up....usually calliper instead of the correct spelling for brake caliper, let’s hope someone at the factory actually reads their ads and makes a few adjustments to the employment status of the ad person.

I’d be very surprised if the needle valve shown actually seals it looks very ridged. Needle valve and seat called for....or suitable material from which to make both. So that’ll be a lathe and various tooling plus drawings and dimensions, £3,500 should cover it???‍♂️?

6Don’t overtighten the two stud that are screwed into the top of the cylinder barrel. There is a recommended tightening sequence and the barrel studs are not torqued to the same setting as the through studs. Have a look in the Haynes manual or on line. Basically the cylinder head should be checked for distortion using a straight edge, then it is lightly lapped to the cylinder liner and barrel top using either fine grinding paste or metal polish. Hold the barrel still (second person or lightly clamped in a large vice or similar....lightly where it will do no damage!) ensure there is no old sealant or detritus on the surface areas that seal together, apply the paste, polish and pushing down on the cylinder head using a turning back and forth action lap the two surfaces together. Do this a few times, lift the head off and inspect, you should see a light grey sheen all around both mating surfaces. Repeat if you think it needed. Clean thoroughly by washing off with WD40 or similar or white spirit, dry. Of course if your engine has a head gasket the same applies to the mating surfaces. when you fit the cylinder head tighten the nuts down on clean dry unlubricated threads, if you lube the threads you will not achieve the correct torque value as the lube overcomes friction and allows the stud to be overtensioned. Tighten each nut down with its flat washer in place and free from burrs etc...finger tight. Check this but from memory the four through stud nuts are tightened to 14ftlbs and the inner (barrel stud nuts) are set to 11ftlbs. So after initial finger tightening halve the aforementioned settings so you first torque to 7 ftlbs for the outer four through stud nuts and 5.5 ftlbs for the inner two stud nuts. The sequence is one that spreads the tightening load evenly, looking down on the cylinder head facing forward the head becomes a clock face at 11 o’clock that’s stud one, at 4 o’clock that’s stud two, 1 o’clock stud three, 7 o’clock stud four, at 12 o’clock that’s stud five and 6 o’clock that’s stud six. Basically you tighten as evenly as you can without causing distortion or warping. I hasten to add I’m going from memory so if someone corrects me, fine. Do not be tempted to put anything like sealant or glue or even oil between the surfaces as this will cause a leak, liquids cannot be compressed and as you start and run the engine heat will cause the oil, sealant to expand and be forced out. To prevent corrosion of the exposed threads either smear with high melting point grease or paint. Paint will make removing the nuts a little difficult unless you wire brush the thread first. If you smear the stud threads with copper based product you introduce another metal which could cause electrolytic action, better to use on the threads into the crankcase and barrel a high melting point grease or oil, but only enough to cover using sparingly. It is possible on blind hole to create a hydraulic lock effect which will prevent the stud tightening fully, this hydraulic lock could in some case blow the case. Stud lock (Locktite) will prevent rust but mark removal of the stud difficult, depends how often you want to remove the studs. Coppergrease/paste seems to be many people’s favourite so if you must, you must. I tend to only use that product on disc pad backings and sliders. When you install those studs wind then in with two nuts locked together and just nip them in when home don’t force them in like their holding the Titanic. if your engine has a cylinder head copper gasket, the original if in not bad condition could be annealed and potentially reused or kept as a spare.

If you like rain and poor visibility ????‍♂️?there’s always the Michael Jackson video? collection to take your mind off of trivial things?????????or dvd??

Yes but it’ll probably be a 2018 model made in 2017 registered for the road as new in 2019! The other answer could be look into a crystal ball. To answer your question seriously, if you were the manufacturer and planned on still being in business for the foreseeable future then there would be a small change to the current 17/18 models thus superceeding to 2019. Exactly what those ‘small changes would be is debatable, but the price would certainly be one of those changes. Oh and the decals or stickers would definitely be another change. If I were the manufacturer of trials, enduro or m/x machines, I’d have a scheme in place to allow the buyer of any of the previous year machines to have a three year visual update agreement. This would be covered in the initial purchase price, each machine would have a set of the latest stickers issued to its frame number, provided the owner registered their bike with my factory system. There would be a transfer form to be used if the machine passed to another owner. I reckon the cost of a set of stickers to be around £30-40 at manufacturer cost price possibly cheaper if I rein in the design departments sticker design person...me! So at a small cost and p&p plus a little admin time...neat trick here...the owner of the machine must apply for the stickers each year change by e-mail submitting their bikes frame number. My factory can then ask if they would also like to buy at a special price the factory other upgrades. Now here’s the even better bit, by announcing my ‘new’ model range for 2020 in August 2019 potential buyers might look at buying a second hand 2018 model (if my factory and the bikes existed) knowing they can update the bike to the next year in looks alone. This may affect sales further down the line in years, but I reckon that if the bikes were any good there would be a strong demand. Bike dealers would also be able to use the same process...so if there is new old stock bikes around they could be updated, the dealer doesn’t have to be so wary about taking more than just a few bikes to sell as they will not be out of date quite so rapidly as they can get in the real world. Lastly my machines would have a stronger product identity as the colours would be constant and not change from one half year to the next. Those stickers incidentally would proclaim the manufacturers name and bike type, engine size and the best bit....the year. As for dealer back up there would be a special service offered to all purchasers of my machines. Each year the owner could have the bike prepared by the selling dealer, where any major engine or transmission concerns would be repaired with factory parts at a special discount, labour charges would be discounted at the dealers discretion. This would create a tied customer base to the dealer. Any purchaser of my machines would also have the opportunity at the point of sale when new to accept a free entry into winning a brand new (of that year) machine. All the frame numbers (not owners names) would be used and a randomly selected frame number would be the winner, this means that even the purchaser of a second hand machine could end up winning a new bike. That bike would be chosen by the winning individual, and it could also be a dealer if the bike is in their used stock. Clubs that offer introductory courses for new riders young and old and are recognised for being entrepreneurial and promote the sport in the best ways would receive my factories support in such ways as demonstrator machines...these would be unmarked decal/sticker wise...the selected club would offer taster sessions through schools and colleges and youth organisations. These demonstrator machines could be offered after a years use to the club members, each buying a raffle ticket for a set fee set by the club and in agreement with the club members. The winning ticket allows the person to take ownership of said demonstrator which will still have the free new bike chance through frame number selection as the rest. The demonstrators and free bike would be covered in the advertising budget and other revenues pulled in from suppliers and a small franchised dealers contribution. Yes of course this is utopia and dreaming, but it ain’t that hard to see a way forward. Some of the big manufacturers could actually offer this.....and before I’m judged as insane, I claim fame as having got a large privately owned motorcycle business to be dealer of the year in a large weekly publication. Damned hard PR work it was too! There could be some ideas here for clubs to generate more membership. Innovation 1...some of the factory production could be channelled to schools, colleges and youth and offender organisations for educational and teaching aides. Whole machines might be offered to colleges that offer related courses, these might be at cost or leased at a preferential rate but identified as such so that they do not end up in the market place for sale. Innovation 2...dealers contracted to sell factory supplied machines would be ring fenced and offered full factory support. There would be no endless warranty paperwork, electronic or otherwise. The customer would come first with legitimate warranty claims being sorted straight away, electronic data such as photographic details including the customer. Should the customer want another dealer to do the work the factory would send a ‘trouble shooter’ technician out to the dealer to carry out any necessary warranty work, the dealer would receive a charge for this and not the customer, hopefully this might encourage the dealer to have better customer relations. Innovation 3...when we see a child that is in desperate need of financial support for a lifesaving/changing operation or procedure denied to them because of beauracratic indifference and penny pinching. The factory would donate through its (closest to the child’s area) dealer a machine for auction or raffle with all funds going to that child’s family...yes it’s advertising but at least people get the chance to do something to try and help. Blimey....I’m sorry rr62, I really have gone on a bit, like to buy a bike? By the way Hertfordshire is my home county?? Blast it johnsandywhite got in before I’d finished my post!

Don’t use water as suggested but get some diesel fuel oil. Fill the crankcase up halfway, hold engine well and agitate the mix, with a long thin artists type paint brush have a stir around as far as you can. Get a bucket and stretch a piece of cloth over the bucket, secure with string or elastic strap. Invert the engine over the bucket and allow all the diesel fuel to drain out. Look at the cloth strainer, if there’s no needle roller then get a thin magnetic screwdriver or just a thin magnet...thin enough to slip inside the crankcase recess. Test the strength of the magnet for its ability to grab hold of a piece of steel approx the same weight as a needle roller or slightly heavier. Have a dangle about inside the crankcase. I suspect that if you have dropped the needle roller inside then it might be stuck in one of the main bearings, this might well be on the flywheel rotor side as the strong magnetic field may be reaching into the crankcase and holding the needle roller to the inside. I do hope you have success but also, having noted your intention it looks like you want to use the old needle roller assembly.....please get a new roller bearing as with the work already done it makes sense. There are plenty of sources available to supply on the net.??S..t happens....I lost a clutch pressure spring when I dismantled the assembly, I hunted around in my workshop for hours (I like to think that my workshop is clean and tidy but inevitably you end up with ‘stuff’ stored about) I gave up and ordered new set...no bad thing anyway but annoying as the damned thing is in there somewhere...guess what? Having attempted to work out the trajectory of a small spring on take off and the potential ricochet effect off other surfaces without success I found said missing spring hiding one of the rungs inside my aluminium ladder ?Never mind new springs proved under compression test back to back that the original were indeed weak. ?

Justification answer....try making one...then £12 doesn’t seem so expensive?

Err...what was the original topic of this post......now we have digressed and it could be compared to many a meeting side tracked by distraction. Oh and Michael Jackson was a consummate performer, what his private life has to do with tc and this post is beyond my comprehension! No wonder then that not a lot will be derived from any good suggestions posted.

Just rushed out into the garden and rummaged around in me bushes but no scrap bike parts potentially worth a Bonhams ransom price....just Mr.Toad? soaking in the damp?atmosphere.

Think we’ve all been there at some stage or other.

Blimey, that’s at least three twinshock bikes with brakes that actually slow you down???TY 175’s always look nice when people go to town on mods....Very nice bike. ?

Snap!

You need to subscribe to Old Bike Mart, if you don’t already, lots of info, brand specific clubs and large classified section where all sorts of goodies lurk. This is possibly where you will get what you are seeking.

Not a Bultaco parts hoarder are you?

If you ride through deepish water and mud it would be a good idea to drain and refill the gearbox straight after that ride. Dry going I’d change the oil every fourth or fifth ride, this of course depends on how long you ride for. If you ride for four hours each ride that’s oil changes every 16-20 hours if use. Keep a note in a diary or on a maintenance log sheet/board.??calendar works as well.?

That BRG colour might look quite good with the right colour Bultaco tank decals and the red roundals in the recesses. If you want a bit more urge fit an earlier and larger air box, it was a factory mod ( bit reverse if you ask me) it does take up a lot of room but does give the engine more to breathe from. A point about your front brake, not a criticism more an observation. It’s set up like the M80 and earlier models, yours is supposed to be at the front side of the fork leg. It works either way but if you research a bit you’ll see what I mean. As it is if you should be in a situation where the front wheel passes over a rock as an example when it drops down the brake arm could catch on the rock applying said brake. This won’t be a serious issue unless you have the only Bultaco front brake that actually stops you. Just thought I’d mention it?

Thank you Twinshockandy?

If you look really closely you’ll probably notice a slight difference in the decals or stickers. The ends of the mudguards are shaped differently with the 17 model at 38 degrees and the 18 model at 38.96 degrees....insisted upon by the decal manufacturer so that the sticker edges actually line up.? Also in the advertising blurb the hydraulic disc brake housing ....commonly known as the CALIPER...is spelt calliper (2 L’s there should only be one) so possibly there may be something odd about the brakes, potentially strapped to the front fork or fitted with a measuring device similar to a compass. Anyway the ad men have a lot to answer for. Oh and the 17 model has normal fork oil whereas the 18/19 model has oil that is really special in those forks, apparently it is not affected by heat....there!? I’d ignore the web site dreamers and wait until 2019 is upon us...not long, only a few more sleeps...who dreamt that crappy saying up? You just wait there will be some heavily discounted bikes that no one can tell wether they are 2017,18 or 19 maybe the date codes on the tyres can help.????️‍♂️

I’ve put some thought to this as it has been a concern for sometime, and as quite a few have posted similar musings here’s my input. Land is not so readily available as it used to be, housing and industrial sites eat into the green belt and other land. Then with the do gooders, environmentalists, walkers and horse riders etc complaining about pathways...( pictures of tracks churned up by off-roaders legitimately using the correct routes....which makes walking difficult...always surface at the right moment). Next the land owners aware of theses issues preferring to abstain from allowing their land to be used, all makes suitable sites for trials very limited. Those land owners that understand what actually is involved with trials events generously allow a limited number within their own constraints eg noise close to housing, game bird sites etc etc. Sometime back whilst testing a race car at Bruntigthorpe we got told to keep it slow on the corners because tyre noise...I’ll say that again..tyre noise was annoying some one in a house close to the circuit or more correctly...runway. So even if everyone used electric bikes there’d probably be a reason for a complaint, in the land owners case an irritant they don’t need, so it goes on. Trials events have been cancelled for various reasons so land suitable for trialing is becoming precious, if different sections and terrain are to be offered then we need to be involving more land owners in some productive way so the both parties can benefit. Maybe clubs could get involved with other events and open days and put on static displays with video action to show the general public what our sport is all about, a few members could show their bikes and riding kit hopefully encouraging some parents to consider the safest introduction to motorcycle sport and riding, possibly also reaching others to. As a bike dealer I’ve attended, schools open day events with bikes and clothing examples and any other marketing material, if it just interests a few it’s worth the effort. Attending College events also widens the appeal. Then we have the local events and promotions that clubs could get involved with....casting the net wider. Then perhaps we should adopt, as already suggested, a grading system whereby you have to start as a novice ( no matter how good a wobbler you are) and compete in and finish in at least four trials. The club would issue a competitor card that would be signed off after each completed event by the clerk of the course..it’s just a suggestion, someone else as a named signatory could do it...this same process would be repeated for intermediate and then expert. Within twelve events it would be possible to achieve expert status. Any rider not wanting to go forward from let’s say intermediate would simply withdraw from an event by either machine fault or missing out a section, it’s left up to the riders discretion if they progress up the levels. It wouldn’t matter if the rider was on a tiddler or a full on works replica or a pre-65 etc the same grading would apply. Current riders could use previous results to declare rider status as either novice, intermediate or expert. They would have the same grading card either completed to the level chosen or left open so that they can elect if they wanted to progress. The trials events would have just the one course made up of a group of sections, experts must ride all sections, reason later, intermediates have the option of riding all sections or not attempting the sections marked as expert the novices would only ride those sections marked as novice. All sections would be marked with signs stating the words novice, intermediate etc so there is no confusion. Similarly the bike would have novice or intermediate on the competitor number board, experts would be marked the same.This last suggestion might not be practicable. However as there will be more expert sections the novices would have the time and be able to watch some or most of the sections being attempted by the experts, it would be the same for the intermediates and thus a learning pattern develops where every rider is showing others riders how to approach and ride the different sections, an expert completing a novice section would give benefit to a nervous novice. So this brings up the issue of sections being reached by road (public highway), some riders don’t want to ride on the road for various reasons which would be understandable. In this case the overall winners in all three classes would be those who have ridden all sections including those reached by riding legally on the road, these riders would be awarded a full win. Those winning riders that only rode the sections not reached by riding on the road (public highway) would be awarded a classified win. This would not take away the obvious pride in winning an expert full win, intermediate full win and a novice full win and likewise the riders who hadn’t competed over the full course could still achieve a classified novice win, intermediate classified win and an expert classified win. This may not sit well with some but it’s my contribution borne about by just reminiscing about trials in the 60’s and 70’s when it seemed every single trials iron was registered for the road, most had rudimentary lights and a squeeze bulb horn and nearly every trial involved road work to get to some of the sections. A lot of those bikes were also workhorses being used to get to and from work as well as being thrown about in trials. I hope there’s some useful ideas here, open for criticism constructive or entertaining ?‍???

?I’ll go wid dat...hic..u..know???aahhd luv...tah av...belch...hic..wun o em ...hic teee sh...burp..urts....????????