section swept

If he registers the bike even VOSA probably wouldn’t twig and ask for an SVA...but that’s another story. ?

Have a look at the Sherlock specific area of this site, lots of info for you to learn from?

No need for sorry, thanks. From what you have told us you have had some experience, that Cota is worth a bit now if it’s still around. Your new ride looks almost new and ready to go...enjoy?

Sounds complex, can you not achieve the same with just a larger rear sprocket?

You are going to have to explain your location to a numpty. ??‍♂️

Some Burke will still cock it up and call it tree-ale??‍♂️

Think we made trials irons way before Sergio and crew got in on the act! A certain Mr Miller and other development riders might vouch for that fact. Ain’t got no Spanish cousins either!

Goodnight John boy

Well they look good and purposeful don’t they? Had me fooled.

Lovely reminder of when trials were ‘proper’ and I bet despite any laughs at your expense that you thoroughly enjoyed yourself. No suspension set up worries, no constant worrying about overheating through fans jamming etc etc???

Sir Bronze welding with an oxidising flame (less acetylene) is relatively easy to perform if you practice on some scrap metal first. Good thing about Sif Bronze welding is it is strong and as you only heat the metal to dull red then back off until it goes blue then go back in with flame and bronze rod that heat path allows the metal to expand further across its body so there is less chance of cracks as it cools after being joined. You can heat the join back up and take apart if necesssary. It absorbs vibration well and is the preferred joining method of many frame builders. Whereas Brazing, often confused with Bronze welding is not as near as strong or the best joining method for footrest hangers. MIG in the right hands is just as good as TIG but never produces as neat a weld bead size as TIG. Most frames were MIG welded in the 70’s and 80’s. You are lucky to be able to afford a TIG welding set, to most it’s a dream welding must have?

That doesn’t look ‘factory’ at all. There’s too much material stuck on the swinging arm for it to be a professional modification. I would be looking at getting another swinging arm or removing as much of the excess weight as possible. You’ve got a lot of spokes missing too! What’s the rest of the bike like?

What size gearbox sprocket is fitted, you will have a better effect on gearing at the front (g/box) if the sprocket is not already as small as can effectively be used.

Blimey virtually new bikes with fuel leaks, if I had invested my hard earned in a new bike and it leaked fuel it would be outside the dealers at the crack of sparrow fart with a dam great arrow pointing at the fuel leak area. It also points to poor preparation before delivery to the purchaser, they would have needed to fuel up the machine to run the engine. If there’s a problem in this area there ought to be a recall or at least send out to owners a modified seal or instructions on what to do.

Agree entirely...spell wrecker I call it!

Anti-freeze of good quality should have an operating life of at least 2 years, that’s when it’s in road bikes and cars. However as there is less and less to service on newer machines to give the dealers a fighting chance at hauling in some profit through the service department anything that can be drained and replaced with expensive chemicals is a target. The coolant could last a whole season and more without ill effects, which might equate to the 80+ hours mentioned, however when the engine spits out some coolant, or some is lost through repair or other reason then there is a good chance the anti-freeze may become diluted. Bearing in mind that all anti-freezes are supposed to contain not only a corrosion inhibitor but also a lube for the water pump seal. Get an anti-freeze tester to regularly check the anti-freeze strength, if you drain out the bikes coolant, keep it for the van, car etc. If you mix your own coolant, then use distilled or de-ionised water,as tap water contains contaminants that can affect the aluminium over a period of time, good quality anti-freeze can often deal with this,but the more economic products may not have the same effect. I bet there’s many people who don’t have or get their car or van coolant changed all, even after 3+years! There’s probably some road bikes in the same situation.

Probably it will be even tighter to get back in, you might be better to loosen the engine mountings to give a little more clearance. When you looked at the pivot bearings/sleeves did you find that they were well lubed by the factory or was only just a smear there?

GOOGLE for Bill Pye and many others?

Check out the reliability of some of the more modern offerings, some are subject to kickstart shaft/gear faults developing just from using them either incorrectly or too many times.....fragility in a system that should be very robust. As a previous KToom owner with both 2T and 4T you will probably get on straight away with either. The other option that may ease you back into off-road riding would be to get a KTM Freeride and spend some time riding the trails, this should help with all manner of easing your body and helping to build confidence in balance and weight transfer etc. Liesuretrail uk Nottingham may be the dealer to help here as they are (as I am sure you may be aware) KTM and Beta dealers...also Osset that could also be a contender. It’s only money but you get my drift, I haven’t dealt with them for a few years but they certainly did good servicing on my 990 Adventure, no new info on them.

Well first off welcome and thank Lady Luck that you were not wiped out permanently. By the way it’s TRIALS please refer to other posts, it’s a common thing to get the two names mixed up. Try and make friends with someone who will let you try there bike before you decide on buying anything...not always an easy thing but join a local club and start talking. Have a word with your doctor as any real off could seriously affect your repaired body areas. I’m 6ft+ and shrinking but 16 stone is a bit heavy, possibly muscle density is the culprit, you will need stamina rather than loads of strength, aim to lose at least a stone. As you have had a Ktoom you will be familiar with standing up most of the time and you should consider the effect that this might have on your left leg ( I’m not sure about this as you say metal leg from the knee upwards?? ) Please take this post as constructive as I too know what it is like to have your body messed up but not the extent that you have suffered. You say that you have 50% left arm movement, this may hinder your ability to negotiate some sections and bike handling. Don’t get me wrong you may well be riding like a world champion after some time but Twin Shock Trials might be a way to develop yourself before entering the more challenging modern trials bike sections. What ever you decide I wish you every success, I recently met a biker who had lost half of his shoulder and actually died at the road side but was brought back by the medics, he now rides a 1580cc Harley and his wife refuses to ride with him but accepts his need to ride, Hope your other half is as understanding.

As a young lad I recognised the difference between trials and trails machines. When I was a lad a long time ago....trail bikes were actually greenlane bikes which were a version of the ISDT bikes that many drooled over. Trials riding was around years before trail riding which is an unrecognised sport. If anyone is serious about this sport they will not need to be reminded about the difference. As a revised name how about Competition Trials Riding abbreviated to CTR when necessary, or ..... Twin Shock Trials Sport Monoshock Trials Sport Pre-65 Motorcycle Trials Sport

Looks like everything needs to soak in diesel or Gunk for at least a month. With careful cleaning many of the parts will be reusable apart from the bearings.

Looks like it was made for the bike....did Yamaha know something?

Dust cap popped off the left leg....RE forks?

It would have been if I hadn’t swapped in 1963.☹️