vintagecota

Best guess on the production date is June 1970. Here's a photo of what it should look like, this being a '72 the only real difference is the rear shocks. Yours should have chome covers over the tops. http://tinyurl.com/Cota247

Great bike, and you can make double time pulling stumps with it. If you can ride well nothing will stop you, if you can't ride well, nothing will stop IT!

I guess I'm one of those 425, but how many Canadians compete in the National Series East AND West rounds? 2? 3? None some years. Until last year at least, If you want to be Canadian Champ, you just needed to compete in all the rounds.

Maybe you are installing the kicker angled too far forward? The kicker should be parallel to the frame tube. If I recall correctly there's about 30deg of preload on the spring, and you have to install the spring to the slot in th kicker, then slide the kicker part way on, then rotate the straight part of the spring, with some difficulty, to enter the hole in the sidecover, then push the kicker home.

That will work too. You mean you don't have a selection of NOS parts on the shelf?GGG spudsdad, the 335 was electronic, but the rotor is on the other side with that engine being based on the 247, while the 200 was based on the 123 (or 74cc)

It's a different number, but one from any 123 or 172 should work. A 242 will work too, and it's electronic. Take your pick. edit: maybe I'm thinking of a 304...

Probably won't be an issue if you use good oil.... I'm thinking of the shim acting as a thrust bushing to protect the aluminum.

Basically, you want the shafts centered in the cases with at least one shim at each end. End play? As little as possible without clamping down on the shafts. 2 or 3 thou.

349s DID start from '79. '79s and '80s had red tanks but different stripe kits.

As I understand it, the kickstart failure includes breakage. I haven't had a failure on mine yet because I always set the kicker well before kicking. That's the key. No flailing at the kicker like some people do. As for spark, I'd pull the rotor, clean and reset the points/timing, replace the condensor, relocating it to under the tank, and go from there. There is a slim chance of a source coil failure, but just check for continuity breaks and you should be OK. MH200s had red tanks.

A common problem that causes hard starting (20 or 30 kicks) is the starter jet in the carb get plugged very very easily because it is soooo tiny. It'll plug just from gas drying up in it. I'd take the carb apart and jet some carb cleaner through all the jets.

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/mcy/1300589055.html

Pillar, great shots of our fabulous riding area! We are lucky sods.

I've done a few, and asked the local Montesa guru about it before I did the first one, and he said," There isn't realy a spec, but you're pretty much aiming for zero." So, I said I had 2 or 3 thou, and he said "That's fine." Basically, just able to detect a slight motion is what you want. I think 10 thou would probably be as much as you'de ever want to see....

Hi Steve, I don't know how I missed this post, but I just saw it now. Yes, the mighty 300 was an eye opener. As soon as the clutch took up, my eyes bugged out and I let out a whoop. The torque was amazing. It felt like it could go anywhere. The chassis felt a lot like the 240, but the motor is something else! I've been working to make mine run better than when you saw it, and so far so good. A little more to improve, but it's much better. Thank you for the ride. Shaun

Thanks Lee and Glenn, I think the first thing I'll do is see if it runs better without an air filter, and pick up a K&N. The foam in it is pretty old. That might just crispen up off idle. After that, I'll disassemble the carb one more time to check the pilot jet. The stamped number is too small to easily see. I'll use a microscope if necessary, and check to see it hasn't been redrilled. Lee, the main jet doesn't really affect the off idle crispness, my only real complaint, and the standard 98 that's in there wouldn't really be that far off considering I'm at sea level, so I don't think that's it. Glenn, If the pilot is still standard as I suspect, I could go down a size on that. I'm going to do a better inspection of the slide bore and if I see any wear at all, I'm just going to bin it and go for the OKO. That said, wouldn't wear in the slide bore make it go lean? I seem to have a rich condition at idle... It IS a fuel screw isn't it?

First you need to take off the right side cover and inspect the shift mechanism. Check the rack and pinion for sloppiness, worn teeth, missing teeth, etc... Then go into the shifter drum, under that cast iron circle with 3 screws. It's possible to install the pawls incorrectly, and check the teeth on the pawls for wear. Failing that, you'll need to split the cases to check for bent forks... While you have the cover off, remove the clutch basket and take out 3 of the 6 springs. This will lighten the clutch noticeably and still have enough bite to work the bike. The clutch might slip a bit in higher gears, like on a road, booting up a hill, but should be fine in the sections. If you have the Clymer book it shows the shifter stuff and how to correctly assemble it.

A PILOT, you damned RACIST!

I've been riding the new 240 with a carb that was dumping fuel in at an astonishing rate. It seemed to run OK but went through a tankful in about an hour and a half or so, with a black plume appearing on the white rear fender. I had disassembled and cleaned the carb when I got the bike and noticed a deformed tip on the needle valve and a pinched o-ring on the pilot jet, so thought I might just be able to improve this fairly low-mile carb with a new needle and seal kit. I ordered the parts from Mr.Wright, got them here in Canada in 6 days, and installed the kit. Starting is much improved now, and after a day's ride there's still gas in the tank and there's a tan coloured plume on the white fender (mudguard). Improvement to be sure. The problem is that it still seems to run the same, not bad, but fat like it's still too rich. The "air" screw, as it's called in the manual, which I think is a "fuel" screw is said to be originally set at 2-1/2 turns out, but mine came to me with it set at 3/4 turn out and still runs best there. Jetting in the carb is as standard, nothing changed, yet. The other problem was that the idle speed screw wouldn't screw in far enough to affect the idle. The spring would bind before it screwed in far enough to raise the idle enough to keep it running. I found a similar spring and cut it shorter to fix that problem. So, should I just spring for the preset OKO, or can the Dellorto work, and I'm just missing something?

Put it in the cylinder squarely using a piston, then hold the barrel up to a light and see if you can see light around the outside of the ring....

She fits into your wife's clothes!

The manual covers only up to '75, so that kickstart assembly is not covered. The main thing is that there's a ramp on the gear to disengage it as the kicker swings forward. In other words, when the kickstart lever is parked, it's leaning forward against the case and when you swing it out and back to engage the kicker, you don't want it to engage until the lever is back over center. The ramp disengages the teeth in that swing from park to over center. You just need to get the gear with the ramp in the right clocking so that it ramps down and lets the teeth engage just as the lever comes over center. It's not too hard......

With all that new compression, be careful with the kicker....

Yes, it is all stock, the only thing I can find that has been changed is the rear sprocket is now 43 teeth. Yours looks like it's got some of the requisite mods, eh? Foot pegs further back? Brake pedal shortened? Changed top yokes?

I once bought a 247 that suffered the same indignity. There's no way to fix it without replacing the bearings.