pumpkin trials

re the above you would be better to order a shaft and seal as a set i changed my own recently and the wear on the shaft from a rubber seal was unbelievable watch and make sure you line up the cross bar in the shaft with the space for it in the drive in the engine or you may break it or worse still damage the engine if it over heats take the shaft off by taking off the brass cover on the front and then undoing the shaft making sure not to forget the washer just make sure the the clutch cover is snug before you tighten up the allen bolts

It sounds that the most likley problem is that the return spring on the kickstart shaft has broken and the kickstart wont return if as you say it spins without any resistance it could be that the actual shaft is broken easy to see what it is just lay the bike over and remove the clutch casing and you will know soon enough

Nice bike but not fully original as Big John knows my father has one with the Seeley branded front plate but more importantly a prestine genuine RSC exhaust what would it be worth or the mono version we made when i was 16 with the box alloy swing arm from a Honda crosser and a hydraulic stumpy shock from an airplane landing gear if only i had kept that or at least a picture to prove it

The best and simplist way to repack the rear silencer on your gas gas is 1. ring Dot or Jude or others at Gas Gas UK and order a bag of silentsport repackaging material 2. drill off the rivet heads and and remove the end can 3. remove the old packaging and baffle and dispose of the oily waste - bit messy be sure to note what way the baffle sits as you need to put it back in the same way - it is slighty bent at an angle at both ends 4. put the baffle back in and pack the silentsport in around the bafle tamping it down with a piece of wood making sure you get it in the thin gap at the sides of the baffle - from experience 2/3 of the bag of silentsport is a perfect amount for 1 silencer - keep whats left for the next time 5. squeeze the end can back on with a bit of material inside it and pop rivet back in place this is a proven method i have used over half a dozen times and i haven't heard of a better method as yet

as long as the gasser is in good nick at the right money i would go for it i had a 280 txt prior to getting an 02 pro 250 280 then was the better bike but this was probably more due to the fact 250 pro was new model and needed ironing out now have a 300 pro 06 and have had no probs other than general maintainance you might get it at the right money if you asked nicely as for spares no probs from shirty for the txt Dot John and Jude all first class i do know that when gas gas update models all spares also update and retro fit older models of same bike bad mistake but should really have also put Kev and Andy in for mention as well - suprised Kev gets any work done with us muppets ringing

The best way to wash the inside of your helmet is a tried and trusted method used by me you take your helmet into the shower after a trial and as you are washing your hair put the hat on and lather up the inside with the suds from your shampoo on your head do this a couple of times and then place in the hot press sitting upright and it will drip and be dry for the next trial

your bike is definitely a 2002 pro you can tell by the following 1 the rear caliper on the picture is behind the swing arm - on the txt they were above and prone to damage 2 the kick starter is totally different on both models 3 the cltch cover on the txt was i believe a 2 part affair not as can be seen on your pro 4 the plastics are 2002 txt pro as these were what i had on mine which was bought in 2002 when i still had a 2001 txt to compare all the changes to hope this helps

Not sure how much help this will be but i was on holiday with the family in Salou a couple of years back and whilst on a day trip to Barcelona i found a mont dealer cant remember name of either the place or the street but it was down a side street off the main drag from harbour up to the centre of town on the right hand side from the harbour there is a sign on footpath pointing down the street he sells scoots etc but also mont trials bikes also had a baby mont trials bike from the seventies up on the wall

much the same as above best i have found is to split air box and put a bead of sicoflex 50 or similar ( any windscreen mastic should do) around the join and then put back together then add extra at the top back of air box where the rear guard comes down this stuff hardens but remains flexible whereas silicone stays to soft and gets pulled out too quickly

Just make sure that the airbox is well sealed best i have found is to split air box and put a bead of sicoflex 50 or similar ( any windscreen mastic should do) around the join and then put back together then add extra at the top back of air box where the rear guard comes down this stuff hardens but remains flexible whereas silicone stays to soft and gets pulled out too quickly

Don't forget if you are riding very wet trials or lots of rivers the air box has been pretty much sorted but i always seal up in the back of the air box where the rear guard fits in and also where the 2 parts of the air box meet just below the guard the best thing i have found is the black sealant used to bed car windows - sicoflex 50 or something similar it lasts longer than silicone and doesn't fall out as quick

GOOD TOPIC BUT LOOK AT IT THIS WAY I STARTED AS A 10/11 YEAR OLD 25 OR SO YEARS AGO NOT ONLY WAS IT BRILL TO RIDE ON WEEKEND BUT TROPHIES LOOKED GREAT ON MANTLE PIECE EVEN BETTER NOW AS YOU CAN REFLECT ON OLD WINS ETC WHEREAS IF YOU JUST GOT DOUGHWHEN YOU GET OLDER AND GREYER ALL YOU WILL HAVE ARE FADING MEMORIES AND YOUR KIDS WILL NOT BELIEVE HOW GOOD YOU ONCE WERE