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It probably hasn't come out yet in Europe but the Bourne stuntguy does some trials during the motorcycle chase that happens right after the scooter chase. You can clearly see the trials tread as he zaps up a 7 foot wall and up the steps. It looks like a 4RT with side panels and other add ons to make it look like an enduro bike.

I'm not talking about repacking the silencer which is fairly simple, but repacking the muffler in between the header and silencer. I first torched it which didn't make much difference, so my next step was cutting four holes in the muffler. On my 95 Fantic Section I figured it wouldn't be so hard since the sides are flat. I used a Dremel cutting bit and cut two oval holes on each side about 1 inch by 1 1/2 inch. The muffler is made the same way as the silencer with a perforated tube with fiberglass packing between it and the shell. Then I used an old brake cable frayed at the ends and loosened all the oil soaked fiberglass and shook it until fell out. I then torched it again and with the extra four holes I was able to thoroughly burn out the gunk. I again used the cable to get any remaining packing and carbon. I repacked with small pieces of fiberglass using a chopstick to push it in. I made covers out of 3mm aluminum sheet metal, made gaskets out of silicone baking sheets, drilled holes and sealed with rivets and then painted black. I had to use JB Weld to level out the rear outside of the muffler that had the FM letters embossed. The whole process took a while but now I can completely repack the exhaust system making a big reduction of noise compared to repacking the silencer alone.

A floating front disc allows for side to side movement, but should there also be any up and down movement? Mine does and sometimes makes a clanking noise as well as not stopping well. Does the metal collar around the mounting bolts need to be replaced?

You should check if any exhaust gas is leaking anywhere besides the back end. You might have torched out a seal. Or you could have burned out the packing inside the mid muffler.

I found this video on youtube: A rider in Japan with an XR100 engine inside a Gas Gas.

Stock it's heavy with a gutless engine. Kind of inbetween an dual sport and a real trials bike. It was popular for the retired motorhome people who would strap in on the back and use it for short rides. Like a Honda XL 175 it will run forever with little maintenance and you probably can still get parts from your Honda dealer.

No one in the US makes a living competing so why are they called Pro? If you ride that class don't you feel embarrassed calling yourself a Pro? If you have ambitions to make that class and once you do, you still need a regular job or parent's money to support your riding.

http://www.lewisportusa.com/electric.htm Big heavy batteries and short run time are still the major setbacks. Someone should make one for exhibition use that has no batteries and and needs an extension cord minder.

I built trials sections in my backyard at no expense beside nails and concrete blocks so I spent about $100 USD. I pick up things around the city for free to build with using mainly shipping pallets and shipping crates. I also use rocks, logs, broken concrete, and scrap lumber. They need to be arranged so that the skidplate doesn't slam into the wood. Concrete blocks are put under the pallets to keep them from rotting from moisture. A skilled trials rider can ride them without much damage but an unskilled rider on an enduro bike would tear it up. In that case you would need tractor tires, railroad ties and boulders.

When I bought my used 95 Section it ran too rich the same way. I cleaned the carb by taking it apart and soaking overnight in cleaning solvent. Make sure you take out the tiny jet underneath the idle jet. I put in a leaner main jet and tried different needle settings and now it runs fine. Also clean out the exhaust system.

My vote is the exhaust fumes. I get headaches from sitting in line breathing 2-stroke fumes. Not fun and not healthy. Next time you clean out your exhaust pipe you'll see that black goo that you breath in.

That's the same color scheme as mine was so it must be the 89 model, the first year of the orange which continued for two more models. For the 250s during the 80's to early 90's the models went 301, 303, 305, 307, 309 then K-Roo, Key Roo. The 89 125cc model I think was called a 245 so you might actually have the 249cc 305 model.

I used to have a 1989 305 Fantic which was 249cc. I guess the 205 is a small bore maybe 125cc. Is it bright orange? I sold mine 6 years ago for what you paid for yours but mine was beat up. I had a manual but it was in Italian. All the rear hubs on the 305s cracked and other areas are prone to cracking. I had welds on the forks, engine and subframe.

I heard that header wrap was used on race cars to keep the exhaust gases hotter so the engine has more power. This also caused the pipes to become brittle and crack. I won't have this problem riding in my backyard since I tried wrapping a strip of silicone baking sheet on the header and it didn't melt. This means it didn't get above 500 degrees F. I'll try wrapping more but what I think what would help silence more is repacking the middle muffler. It's double walled but not repackable so I'll have to make doors on both sides.

I have a new design. It's called the PabstGas model!

I've started a project of making my Fantic Section as quiet as possible for backyard riding. I've had no complaints yet and want to keep it that way! Here is my first effort: It's made out of a silicone baking pan folded in half, with rivets and stationary binder clips holding the fiberglass and perforated aluminum tube that I made from a sheet. If you've heard of the dB Snorkel, it works in a similar way but at half the weight. Mine weighs less than a pound. I need to work on the mounting system since my velcro and wire mounting falls off. When it does fall off, I immedietely can tell the difference as the silencer works quite well! The whirring of the powervalve is a lot more noticeable. When in action, it pulses like a frog's throat. Since it's soft and floppy, rear suspension isn't affected but as you can see it's tweaking the fender. Some sort of reinforcement is in order. I found out that they make these silicone pans and sheets in black so I'm going to pick some up today. Excessive dirtbike noise is an issue that plagues the sport and I've been researching what other dirtbike racers are doing to their bikes to make them quieter and some other methods are wrapping the header pipe and adding sound padding on the skidplate. Baking silicone sheets can withstand 500 degrees farenheit so I'm going to test some strips on the header pipe and maybe the cylinder. Any other ideas?

I got a good deal off of ebay and paid half of what the bike usually sells for. It was from a reputable street bike dealer who had no knowledge of trials bikes. It was described as forks not working but I bought it anyway. With a little work, I got the engine running fine and discovered that the reason for the locked up forks was a stripped bolt holding the axle which caused the forks to bind. A simple fix and now it's a sweet ride!

I remember cutting new edges with a safety razor 25 years ago when we had the hard rubber tires. Now with the soft rubber you would lose the edge quickly, have to cut more to get a sharp edge and your tire would wear out more quickly. A waste of time and tire in my opinion.

This guide is very thorough with lots of color photos. It's from Sherco but it applies to all bikes. http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/sherco_brake...ding_manual.pdf

Re-jetting will most likely cure your problem but you should also thouroughly clean out the carb and and any carbon buildup in the exhaust. My Dellorto has a tiny jet underneath the idle jet that is easy to overlook. Also the correct premix ratio like 90:1 which you wouldn't use in your enduro.

The first idea is old since my dad did this on his 1978 TY 175 over 12 years ago. The floating rear fender. The rear fender is like the front fender with low clearance from the tire. This enables more body english without the fender getting in the way. My dad had the fender hinged on the frame and swingarm. The rear muffler might have to hinge also. The second idea is another set of footpegs on the swingarm. This would work well with the floating rear fender. Let's say your going uphill and need more traction. You move your feet to the rear pegs so all of your weight is on the rear tire.

The first bunny hop I saw on a trials bike was by Bernie Schreiber around 1981 on a Bultaco. It wasn't in a section though, just showing off bunny hopping on flat ground over a some of people laying down. In his Observed Trials book around 1984 there are photos of him bunny hopping a dozen people on flat pavement. It also shows him demonstrating the rear wheel hop turn. He was also jumping off 7 foot vertical ledges on his Bultaco long before they ever became part of sections.

I've heard people say that they run better without a powervalve and they have taken the gearing out to save weight.

You might want to try the kits made for rusty old metal tanks. It coats the inside with a gas proof material that would also stop the leak. You would need to test it out to make sure it adheres to the tank material.

At one point the floats were stuck and gas overflowed out the tube (vent tube?) and onto the outside case.