trialman

did a 320t for a friend, luckily he had a puller and the cam timing kit supplied with the bike. my thoughts are they are a pig to work on, rad has to be moved so you can get rocker cover off for shimming, and it seems they are a bit prone for wood-ruff key shearing so make sure key and key way are good and that flywheel nut is done to the correct torque setting,also if you have a rattly cam chain someone might of messed with the tensioner, there's a fine spring inside it and if it hasn't been wound up enough it will not lock off internal rod to maintain tension. if you haven't got parts manual or workshop manual SHERCO has them all available for free on their site [excellent service]and shows use of tools. riding wise it's an awesome motor and definitely not for the faint hearted. think they should have done a 200/250 version on clubman state of tune, they would of sold loads.wish they would make it so radiator was EASILY removable then I would not have to moan.hope you enjoy it,I loved watching cabestani riding it on the indoor trials, WHY?? are'nt there more 4 strokes, i'm so tempted to get the tenaki wong.

would recommend you get the correct puller as a slide hammer could buckle flywheel, and sometimes even with the correct puller they can be stubborn to get off. If it is, whack up the tension and leave it overnight,usually works.

best priced option is to buy a piece of 2mm alloy plate [you could probably pick up an off cut if you have any engineering companies nearby?] buy 2 base gaskets and copy around one onto sheet, cut it out and fit onto bike.[ive done this on a couple of bikes to tone them down. it does make kickstarting easier and makes finding grip far better. I used to have a beta gara 260 and the power was far too much, doing this mod made it far more enjoyable to ride

Hi scotty, really it should not leak if its done properly?? I would say lean it right down onto its side and you should see green? gasket between the cases, if you can't I would say return to builder.. I used to work for the local ossa agent in the 70's and used a 310 model, I also had outings on the works cantilever model that also had a reed valve manifold fitted, which really gives the motor some grunt. my 310 had extra flywheel weight fitted to improve grip, but the 250 is a gasper in std trim. youv'e made a good job of restoration and hope you get some good outings on it. See if the vmcc have any events in you're area, as they are great fun and cater for early twinshocks. see attachment below.. all the best.

As a longtime friend of danny and his father, its great to see him innovating the sport. He's a great laugh to compete with,and if you don't know he's a world class cyclo trials winner. How you can exit a section 4foot in the air going backwards is beyond me, but the local kids stand gobsmacked when he's playing about. He really should be doing a training camp for the kids progressing from cycle trials into motorcycle trials because he knows how to make learning fun. his vids from cyclo trials are on the tube, so his trials stuff will open peoples eyes to the fun and friendship you get among trials competitors. Keep it up Danny..regards RAY the RWS

it says electronic on coil, and would have the wrong value windings for a pointed system!! suggest you check with supplier as c.d.i. type is not usable..Also best check for output coil is an OHM reading [done static] and should be around 400 ohms, but check this on the bultaco forums, i'm sure someone on the bulto side will help you along.. ;]also where do the white and orange wires come from, and go to as picture does not clarify..get rid of any wiring not required by ignition, and draw diagram of you're wiring so we can check. Also like the chap says above make sure coil is earthed, as it looks like frame has been painted..is'nt it frustrating when you can't see a spark ? a true test of a mechanic, and when you've sorted it you can join the elite:]

Just add on that this tool is also a flywheel holder [works great on any bike,and if it doesn't you put bike in top gear,lock up the gearbox sprocket and do it that way] and a sprocket holder [for gearbox sprockets] for yams etc that have a nut, that are normally done up that tight i've had 4ft bar on to try and undo them. so tool is a good value multi purpose.

universal clutch locking tool is a big set off mole grips, with pegs one side and right angled jaws the other side, available from good bike shops or tool agents, I've been mechanic for many many years and they're a godsend. the alternative is an impact driver and are quite cheap for an electric rechargeable one. Another alternative is to put the bike in top gear and lock the chain /wheel with a block off wood to stop the wheel rotating, it works but you get a very springy feel until chain tensions up..all the best trialman ebay link..https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORBIKE-Flywheel-Clutch-Locking-Pulley-Holder-Tool-MOTORCYCLE/360914256319?hash=item54082a81bf:g:KsUAAOxy0x1TVjXP

Hi, used to have a txt, and the sealing tape on these rims were always crap. Cheap get around is to seal all round rim with a good silicone sealant, I did this on a txt rim I fitted to a ty175 so I could use the better tyres, putting a tube in stops the tyre being pliable and loses you grip. If you do this leave to dry for a few days before fitting tyre you should be good to go. if you've used a good quality sealant [NOT CAULK] this should last a good while, my ty's 3 years on from rebuild, also the sealant stops the rim corroding anymore, you're rim looks ok for use but if you notice any spokes going slack, inspect rim around spoke and if there's any sign off cracking then replace rim or source s/h wheel.

I put mine in forwards, as ramp makes it a doddle, I wedge front up corner by drivers seat[ think you could do it behind passenger seat] as I'm left handed?? ramp stops it rolling and 1 strap is all thats needed. my 2010 model seems to be 8inch longer than 2000 model, but both work realy well, think the later one would take two bikes, one forwards and one backwards.

have a word with john shirt jnr, as his father was micks partner when doing the majesty bikes. He's a great guy and top competitor, get in touch through gas gas uk, the lads and ladies there are also very knowledgeable, send them a mail as they can be very busy.

yeah i've used a mk1 berlingo 1400 for the last 8years, and just bought a 10 plate berlingo 1600 diesel to update transport. makes life ultra easy to load bike, only carries one, corner to corner and having lowered floor gives you better headroom over std vehicle. note most wav berlingo's only have 3 seats, thinking of turning mine into a micro campervan so it can be multi use and can make a cuppa. friend bought a peugot partner car unmodified so he's got seats for his family but harder to get bike in! in the later models seats are quickly detachable but obviously you need somewhere to store them, when not used.

it just seals off where honda drilled the oil feed to the cam, a blob off silicone would seal it if you have'nt got the rubber bit.

yellow wire from alternator is ac output, you feed this into a on off switch, then through dip switch. For mot you need dip/beam tail light and brakelight and horn you're ac regulator should stop it blowing bulbs, wire it into the system after the on off switch.. you can run on the road with no lights in daytime, so you get a daytime mot and you still need a horn but no brakelight.

moto racer 3, by sold out software [the gold edition] has a full trials sim on, and plays great, you have to learn to do all the tricks in an arena. there's also mx and road racing. was listed to run on pc's up to windows XP, SO SHOULD RUN IN COMPATABILITY MODE ON A MODERN WINDOWS MACHINE

I use a 2001 belingo with a wheelchair adaption, fits one in easy and great for unloading as floor is dropped 8inch and ramp is bonus, jaws drop at the trials as its brill, think the 2004 facelift model looks slightly bigger and think at a push I could get two in, and certainly by removing front wheel of one..back in the 80s I used to carry 2 in a hunter estate [yes I am that old] by taking bars off and sliding them in with a board between them. Had 3 in an escort van,2 forwards and 3rd in backwards with bars on top of back doors. needs must as they say..