scotty

Only rode it round the garden so far but even with the knackered front forks it rides and handles really nice. Thats why i was wondering if it was worth modding the frame. Somebodys definately been at the frame already. You can turn with it right on the lock stops. Gearing needs lowering as it's on 10/41 at the moment and needs to be a tad lower IMHO but other than that feels fine. Going to make a plate and mount wider footrests a bit lower and back but thats just personal preference. Generally feels like a less twitchy version of the James. Not surprising really as thats 50" wheelbase as well. Think i'll leave it as it is just cosmetically give it a make over with a few tucks and tweaks here and there stick a majesty tank on it! seen the one on majesty moto but that seems dear to me! bearing in mind its made in fiberglass!!! yes do the footrest conversion! got mine from trail and trials, had weld some large nuts to the bottom chassis tubes as my wern't threaded! some ty250's are from std! also go 10/44 gearing makes hell of a difference!

Mmmmm! thats wierd my majesty's wheelbase is 51" from spindle to spindle! i think the std TY 250 Is 52" but dont quote me on this! also im sure the ground clearance is 13 1/2" on my bike, this might have been acheived by moving the rear shocks down on the bike you have! if the engine was higher set i'd said it was a majesty! try it! it might ride really well?

OTF, Stick weve the std forks get them rechromed! there fine! they work ace on my TY! I Asked Mick Andrews about fitting a mono front end in my bike! mick rode it and said they were spot on, no need to swap front ends at all!

Right the next question! out of my three bikes which would be best suited to road based trials such as sammy miller rounds or LDT'S Etc! kawasaki kt250 (1976) inbetween wheelbase , good seat, poss more comfy on road compared to others yamaha 250 majesty (1980) vibey, short wheelbase! tank range ok without any doubt the best of the rest! suzuki beamish 250 (1979) crap seat! smooth engine! longish wheelbase! nice bike to ride! quite competitive! the reason im posting this is because im thinking of selling the kt250 as its mint so i'd possibly get the best price for it plus its (never yet tried it offroad yet) never really been in the running as a pukka trials bike! your views please gentlemen?

I Live in northampton! I'll get the majesty registered! ive got a beamish thats already road reg'd so might use that? what about fuel range? most twinshocks only have a 1 gallon tank! is that enough? to get around! thanks Nick. P.S anyone know dates and area's the last sm rounds are???

My advice to you would be stick to the classic trial's mate,don't think you'd ever get a decent ride at a cater for all trial to be honest. Totally agree stick to Classic and twinshock events. Moderns and Classics dont mix IMHO. OTF! I look in TMX Regs! but only see a few classic trials? how do i get a list of events and times? do the sammy miller ones ALL involve roadwork as he majesty isnt road reg'd! thanks!

right im getting a bit confused on what route to enter my majesty 250 in? i done a local trial and entered the red route (middle) and although i cleaned a few sections i also got a fair few 2-3's and 3 sections were almost impossible! this last few may have been down to lack of experirence? on the easy route there was quite a few brand new (modern) bikes being ridden! this got me thinking should i be on the easy route and try a few harder sections? (bearing in mind im on a 27 year old bike with drum brakes etc! etc!) as and when i come across them? this trial was an inter trial with 50/50 routes! the trial wasnt a twinshock/classic one, if your a clubman/sportsman competing in a trial set out for modern bikes is it best to keep to the easy route? im not no expert!!!

yer right with that woody! i rode a godden 250 back to back with my yam framed bike i could'nt tell any difference? it may be a touch lighter and slimmer but so what? ive heard stories that the godden frames can crack! not so the yam ones! anyway whatever! the best thing anyone can do to a 250 majesty is replace the heavy flywheel with the standard ty one! as the godden 250's run flat as a fart with the heavy flyweel fitted!

I'd go with the bing too! my 199A runs perfect with it! dont forget bultaco rarely got it wrong!

The timings out! you'll need to get it set up correctly!

great looking bike! youve done a lovely job there!

I'd go for the 250 everytime! although i think the 350's yellow looks nicer! the 250 version always gripped better in mud, never rode the 350! it may be better on rocky going with more revy power at hand? strange styling and they feel quite high up on the pegs! but balance is good so is the suspension! could have been a world contender if ossa could have got top riders but fate played its hand once again!!!

Thanks for the replys! Im doing the frame in spray cans as my local powdercoater couldn't match me the proper shade of blue! also i think it makes the bike look a lot more original as you can spot powdercoat jobs a mile away! mmmmm! I should have wet+dryed it down a bit more as has been mentioned what you start with is what you'll finish weve! if i flat it back with wet and dry should this be used with water? the w+d is 600 grade! any way thanks the advise is top notch! now back to the shed!!!

Just started to spray the frame on my bultaco 199a, but not to sure on how to go about it! its already been sprayed in GOOD quality primer and ive rubbed it down with fine wet + dry! ive got the paint (holts spray cans in the correct colour) im planning on starting this when it gets hotter so to get a good gloss finsh to it BUT! do i spray a coat on let it dry then rub it down slightly then keep going like this? then finish weve a final top coat? how many coats should i apply? Thanks Nick.

Ive got these fitted to my majesty and as there still got good tread on them ive left them on till they wear out! this got me thinking who uses them? everyone nowadays seems to use X11's or IRC'S i know the carcass's are harder than the tyres just mentioned! but what sort of conditions was MT43's designed for ie rocks/ gooey mud?????? they certainly dont seem to grip much at all! might stick them on me wr200!!!!

cheers!

thanks lads! yes kevin j if you pull the front brake lever and its spongy and you pull it again its fine! ive now noticed the discs warped so it looks like im going to have to get a new disc? jk hirst would they be the best bet? anyone now how much? thanks Nick.

dave incidently i also need this flywheel puller as ive also got a pe175 and that needs a engine strip! crooks wants

can anyone help me with this? when i apply the front brake sometimes the lever comes right back to the grip other times its fine? when i apply the front brake fully the disc moves slightly sideways? this is the point where the brake lever pulls all the way to the handlebar grip! also it moves slightly when pushed and pulled by hand as in floating? the bolts that secure the disc dont tighten fully right down so theres slight play in the disc bolt mounting holes is this normal? thanks for your replys in advance! Scotty

Alex' if youve not started the bike for that amount of time squirt a bit of neat 2-stroke oil down the sparkplug hole and turn it over a few times, drain out the old fuel (it will be useless) clean out the carb! partically the pilot jet (the smallest jet!) and the bike should run! haynes never made a manual for the beamish suzukis! ebay best bet! as if you look you can find the original suzuki manual that came with these bikes expect to pay around

Hi Ive just dragged all the bits and pieces together to start the rebuild of my 199a BUT! The frames been shot blasted and primed and is ready for spraying! i could do this weve spray cans (ford electric blue!) or pay for it to be done in 2 pack or find someone to powder coat it in the correct blue this is where i came unstuck last time as the powder coater i use didnt have the correct blue (i didnt know the correct code?) so it was sprayed in primer and left until now! also ive got a original seatcover for it but what a job to fit it on as the seats banana shaped i cant seem to get rid of the crease in the middle?( the seat foams good!) any tips on this? also anyone got good results spraying the engine black? whats the best paint to use PJ1? is a primer needed first? cheers Nick.

As a starting point id set the pilot/airscrew 1 1/2 turns out from fully closed! as for the tickover screw it shouldn't matter to much as the engine should start no matter what position its in, have you checked the sparkplug? it might be fouled?

Alex, Theres ment to be oil in there, so unblock whatever you blocked up and top up the oil again! on the clutch casing you took off there should be a small bolt weve a cross cut into it, this will be slightly raised above the rest , this will be the oil level bolt! weve the bike upright put the oil in poss 700-800cc and keep an eye on the oil dribbling out of the said bolt hole! when it does the oil level should be right! first have you got a GOOD! spark laying the plug on the cyl head and kicking it over? is there good compression (when the plugs in!) is the spark plug wet weve fuel? if not the carb proberly wants stripping and cleaning! how long was it since you last started the bike! goodluck!

Hardy Triumphs originate i think from the reading / Berkshire area? Phil Hardy and i think his dad built them using 3ta engines , they also fabricated the chassis plus lots of other special parts for them, there fantasic looking bikes that go very well! Phil used his weve great success down there way! if you can find a genuine one go for it!!!

im sure john cane (trail and trials) can supply you the correct tool for this! sorry no number! find it in explorer!