scotty

cheers lads! feetupfun have you a 250 or 320 majsety? im going for the 10/44 option brilliant!!!

Hi guys! Just recently done a great trial down at frensham vale! great but with very tight turns with hardly any run up on the climbs this combined with the sandy/loamy soil high lighted the fact that the yams gearing is to high im running 10/41 sprockets on the bike! i feel that i ll need a 44/45 final rear sprocket! but does this make it to low? as i was using 1st /2nd gears at first but had to do the lot in first gear in the end! as found i had to abuse the clutch to much when riding in second! any input on this would be great!

excellent bike! esp, 350 (310cc) version!

Sorry OTF i ment the STANDARD! tailpipe,

Sorry OTF i ment the STANDARD! tailpipe,

are they all the same? (alloy types!) do the later pinky ones fit the early ty250r bikes?

can anyone cast there minds back to when the ty250r / pinky ruled the roost! what were the best mods at the time? ive got a drilled out alloy sprocket guard and a alloy mick andrews tailpipe plus a pad (bultaco type) chain tensioner! /HEBO pegs! thats it? what have you done to yours to make it work/look better?

Ive got a real good mitchelen x11 tubeless rear trye can i fit this to my ty250r (pinky) tubed rim? thanks in advance chaps!

Hi Chaps! my mates just got hold of a 325 post sherpa, its fitted with the gearchange on the leftside(when sitting on bike) when you kickstart the bike it goes into gear! ,someone said this is normal as this is because the aftermarket gearlevers are not the same shape as the original one? is this correct?

As rough guide turn the flywheel over slowly while observing the opening and closing of the contact breakers through the small cutout in the flywheel you may also need a small torch to help out with this. when the points are at there largest gap hold the flywheel steady and insert a 15-16 thou feeler gauge if the gap is to big or small youll have to loosen the small screws that the points pivot on and insert a screwdrive in the slot and adjust the gap so that the feeler gauge just has a very light drag to it as it gets pulled out! if your lucky youll be able to do this without removing the f/wheel if not it will have to come off. like i said this is just a rough guide this should get a spark another thing to check that the woodruff key! (the half moon bit of metal that locates in the crankshaft half ) hasn't been dislodged or sheared off this will give no spark symptons!

never made one for the sherpa! if you ever want one for another bike though there top quality exhausts! Dabs i dont think that WES stands for walker exhaust systems! its something else?

Just out of interest which were the best genuine pre65 bikes in there day? i wasn't born in 1965 (just after!) so from what i can gather jugding by the results of todays MODERN pre65 events here goes 1, cub 2, matchless gl3 , 3, ariel ht5 4, greeves tfs 5, james / FB 32a engine! can anyone remember that far back?

Thats what i thought the whole point of having the softest power you could get from an engine ( were talking older bikes here!) the better! the sharper more responsive an engine is the harder it is to control (IMHO) THOUGH if your an expert or at the top of the ladder then perhaps your better for it? your right bo drinker when yamaha designed this bike they made it as near perfect you could get a trials bike (at the time!) likewise the twinshock ty250 got the engine spot on! only the chassis was lagging well behind until shirty and mick andrews sorted it out!

Whats wrong with the 250? ive got two pinkys (both 250's) does the 270 make the bike more responsive? if so ill leave mine as is! ive got the mick andrews alloy silencer fitted to one , the others got a WES on it! the one with the M/A silencer runs beautifully weather this silencer makes the difference who knows? if think there both std barrels etc! as for moving the footrests back more im not to sure on this as i think the ty250r/pinky are already wheelie prone as they are , ive got loads of broken rear mudguards to prove it!

Ok, guys ive now installed a new ign side crank seal, im sure the clutch side seal should be ok as 1, the bike dosen't smoke excess, 2, the bike starts 1st or 2nd kick! BUT ive still got a problem with the lower end of the rev range! the bike idles for a very short while then dies! but the revs dont pick up well as in you have to throttle it lts to keep the revs up and stop it from dying! and have to give it loads of revs to pull away! the mid and top ends good and it will really get a move on when needed! ive cleaned out the carb , jets etc! the vent pipe on the tank clear, new s/plugs gapped and fitted! fresh petrol added! the timings not been checked as i need to get a TDC gauge! ive not checked the airfilter yet nor the position of the carb slide needle these to jobs are next! im very tempted to get a brand new amal mk1 for it if i can get one jetted corectly etc! as im sure this problems due to fuel stavation somehow? the float chambers filling up ok! Help!!!!!!

Why not try ebay? go for 100% feedback score and ask the right questions ie are the frame/ engine numbers present? you should be able to pick up a good' un, they seem to be going very cheap at the moment!

OTF, Thats looks the mutts nuts!!! dare i ask how much that little project cost? haven't you got trials bikes that have got the rear brake on the right side? if so how do you get on changing from bike to bike? once again top job she looks gorgeous!!!

Right ive now replaced the ign side crankseal ( didnt bother with the clutch side one for now as the bike dosen't smoke much!) adusted the plug and points (these will need replacing soon as theres a small amount of pitting evident!) the bike now starts 1st/2nd kick ive got a great mid to top end but from idle to half throttle the bikes useless ie i have to give it plenty of revs to get it pulling away! the bike ticks over ok but like said the lower revs are useless!!!! can anyone shed any light on this? the carbs been cleaned again!!! petrols been changed, new spark plug fitted! the fuels reaching the carb ok!

Hi guys im looking for some decent rear shocks for my 76 ossa mar mk11 ive obtained some new (budget!) rear shocks ,oil only type!!! but not to sure about these? would the NJB experts be a lot better being gas/oil filled? or for about

Look no further than trail and trials uk , they sell oversized footrests for the ty250 if your bike has the threaded holes at the lower parts of the engine cradle these should bolt straight on! but check first with john cane!

If the float arms are close to horizontal when you hold the carby upside down you are pretty close. You may also want to check if either of the floats has a hole (and full of fuel). The most common cause of what you describe is a worn float needle/seat. If the fuel height is too high of course it will run rich. I would be amazed if fuel came out the float bowl vent while the carby is up the right way. More likely to be the float bowl overflow line (the one that comes out the bottom of the bowl). Yes sorry the fuels dripping out of the float bowl overflow pipe! also noticed the fuel tap wont turn off!!! this wont help of course? please email the diagram to me if you could. nick.scott007@btinternet.com thanks for all the replys!

Does anyone know the correct float height for a KT250? Ive got fuel dripping out of the floatbowl vent pipe, So i presume either the needle valves worn or the float heights wrong? or both? also the bikes running a bit rich ,ie no choke needed and when its flicked on (when cold!) it nearly kills the engine! any ideas? thanks Nick.

Hi Chaps! Ive dragged the old kt250 out of the garage to do up BUT! It needs some new rear shocks i swapped some Betors over from the ossa these are 14 1/2 " between centres when fitted to the KT they jack the rear end up a bit high (i think these are the shortest length avalible?) does anyone do rear shock lengths of around 13 1/2 ? also the bike seems to run to rich ,ie when you flick the choke on the engine cant take it and dies also you can nearly always start the bike without the choke. The airfilters clean and the airscrew is set at one turn out from fully closed! could the needle do with dropping down a couple of notches? thanks in advance Nick.

Sorry i must add ive never ordered parts from S.Miller personally himself ,unfortuatley this has always been from his staff? S.Miller ive met before and has always been pleasent to chat with!