Nishijin

Hi all, I've bought a 1983 MD09 TLR200, so a 'proper' TLR200 vs the Reflex. The only Clymer manual I could see on Haynes is on its way to me, but I'm aware some parts may not be correct. For example it looks like front sprockets (JTF329) are different to the Reflex (JTF328). I've ordered the 329's (PO had it geared very high as a commuter...!) I want to buy a new coil/ht/cap as the original cap is a bit past-it and a spare in the box would be best. Online the only ignition coils I can see are for 1986/87. Any idea of a cross-reference for what parts are compatible between the 1983 and the 86/87? Thanks.

I need to get to the parts but I have most of a Scorpa Easy I can sell. (Basically everything minus the engine). Based in Swindon.

Not yet. Still trying to weigh up that it's not going to be a money pit. Someone on the user group on FB cracked a head somehow?? Hoping that this kind of bike's engine is bulletproof enough that wouldn't happen to me. Also trying to calculate just how much I'll be sinking into it to get it running and riding well.

Thanks for that! I went to view the bike a few days ago and it's exactly as the friendly acquaintance described - starts and runs fine but seems stuck in neutral. It's been sitting maybe 5 years mind. Cracks in gusset plates had indeed happened during its life. Both sides had a very tidy welding job along where I'd seen cracks on others online.

A friend has offered to show me his RL325 that's been sat some time. It was working when parked. Now apparently the gears won't select. He says it kicks over fine, but is stuck in neutral. Could it be anything more sinister than just sticky gummed up gears from years of sitting? Any other things to consider when looking at it? I see the chap from the owners club is a member on here.

So this morning the weather was finally torrential enough to wet-out the softshell. Might try something rain-specific on top.

This is a never-ending one, and you’re likely to have a collection of jackets based on weather and seasons. On green lanes on the trail bike it’s become the norm for me to have a modular system of layers to give the freedom to keep warm enough or cool enough while remaining protected from the rain. There’s been no ‘perfect’ jacket for anything more than one half of each season (too hot/cold/wet) Currently on the trials bike now that the weather is naff, I’m practicing in an old Hebo-made soft shell. It is vented under the arms and lightweight. Treated with waterproofing it takes a long time to wet-out. The downside is it can be a bit warm for the static practicing. All the same, until we’re on the other side of winter, the soft shell is my go-to jacket.

Also remember, the slower you can keep the bike at the top, the slower you are going at the bottom. Keep it at an absolute crawl until you have no choice.

Are you sure it wasn’t simply because the fuel was fresh/better quality? Any engine will feel more crisp and responsive when you put fresh cold petrol in after it has been using stuff that’s even a fortnight old.

I had a similar issue on the Sherco a fortnight/week ago when practicing. Assumed maybe the fuel was turning, especially due to heat. Cleaned carb twice, air filter, spark plug, even gearbox oil to make sure everything was smooth. Fresh fuel. Still four-stroking a bit. In the end I had to adjust the air mix on the carb and the idle until it was a bit more stable.

Don’t forget the concrete base and ground anchor

I think I even had a dream about this thread last night… and I own a Sherco!

Ummm no? Left kickstart. Rotax 237

Might want to search Scorpa Easy, as it shares a Rotax engine I believe? My Scorpa Easy (that I paid too much for) was totally uneconomical to rebuild the top and bottom end (piston slap), so I have most parts sat in a box here in the UK.

Regarding bleeding technique… Maybe it’s like the Scorpa Easy, where you just crack the bolt and bleed down the face of the clutch cover. If you fit a bleed bolt, agreed it might foul on the exhaust.