copemech

I admit to being a bit stupid on these things, but what is wrong with that bike? It has two shocks, air cooled and drum brakes? Looks the dogs to me! My feeble mind has always envisioned something like this with disc brakes!

If the Social Security goes tits up just giving annual pay raises to Jon and the millions of Boomers, I will be in a box!

No, my '07 is still a 2.9. The referance pic I took when new reveals there was no tic mark on the outer case for timing referance using a light. And there was also no tic mark upon the casting web, but rather, my mark upon the stator plate was aligned with the edge of the casting web and I retarded it from there to the point is is at which may be just a mm or so past the center of the stator retaining screw and roughly 5mm from the casting edge(the pic illustrates 4mm) as I split the difference after testing and that is where it has been. I rode Laura's '09 2.5 at TTC, in stock trim it was near perfect it seemed, sweet bike, although I did not get enough time on it, I might kick it back a bit as well, yet just a bit. No idae were it was set though. I never got rid of the pinging on mine for the longest time. It was noticable at about 1/8 throttle as one would cruise on the loop or road in 4th gear. Tried all sorts of settings with needles and jets and it did not settle doun untill I went to the #38 pilot jet which also took the needle into a more acceptable range of about 2.5 turns. Seems to work. Never had to go there before, but much I attribute to the alcohol in the fuel we get. And then also the transition range of the dellorto.

Let me see if I can doo this then, Bike looks awesome, very black!! Probably rides much like a '06 Sherco with a friggin Beta shocker! Amazing! How do they do it! Great price!

C'mon some you tightwads, defer your car maintenance due to hard times! Then I can send you the REAL billing! I love it when things blow up! Better yet, just let the wife maintain the cars! No worry! I am busy counting tightwads!

I have seen those small portable air tanks for cheap in the auto parts stores, althouth I still have my old converted freon bottle. I keep it pre charged and it will provide sufficient air volume to seat a tire if properly lubed, but one must use a proper tire beader to insure no excess air escapes. Also, those small portable compressors that plug into a cigar lighter or attach to battery will produce very high pressures to re charge a spent tank, just takes a while, as they are very low volume. But also cheap! and will do for just adding air and such. Seems to me that re seating tires on the trail is iffy at best, as some seem to go, yet others simply will not no matter what you do short of the beader tool and tank! Anyones guess? Try not to let them get too low, as stated! A leakey tire or rim should be addressed before the trial if at all possible!

Bumpy? Sure, just around the corner!!!!!!!!

Oh yes, I have it staight now, he is the nice kid that spoke(english)! Good lad! I think Alexz kinda likes that Beta!

Whine all you want, I made the same last year as in 1996! One thing good about it, if folks don't buy new cars thy need to fix the older ones! Costs are up though, unless you want electronics! Funny to me that all our soo called experts were in the dark untill everything crashed! Being poor to begin with, my stocks are doing fine! Wot stocks?

Could last decades with proper filter maintenance and good oil! Much depends upon how the bike is ridden as well. Seems many will freshen things up with new rings at times. Anyones guess really! Too many variables, as I think a good judge is how the kicker feels as compared to others. In other words, does it have good compression?

Accross the piston skirts about 1/4 the way up from the bottom is whre the measurement must be taken, yet it is all irrelevent unless you have a precision bore guage to compare the readings. Next best thing is to just try and guage things on clean and dry bore using feeler guages if possible. But if all looks well with little scoring from the dirt, it is probably ok. These things are kept quite tight tolerance at about .02mm new limits !

Flat to flat makes sense, as you see the spring side goes toward the material you are sealing in, which on one side is the coolant and the gear box lube on the other. The lip on the flat side is mostly a dirt shield and not the primary sealing surface. I think a light coating of some type of grease would be good to give, as you don't want to run the seals totally dry. Also grease used to retain that inner thrust washer during assembly so it does not fall.

Is he not the kid from OZ that was on the TRW 125 MONT last year? I think he learned a lot! That Sherco must feel like a flea flicker to him this year! Good on him!

Lets just say I did not try out my kneeguards all weekend! All is well for bike and body! I have a bottle of Patron I am saving for Biff! Marg's anyone? We can drink and watch Joe bust his ass! Ryan kind of gave him some lessons on a 125!

Maybe Pat was not the only one that was overclocked a bit! I'm surprised anyone gets any sleep after you finish the boiled eggs, beer and sardines!

No,No Neo! Just a bit of p*** taking, as they say! I think you are doing a super job, yet I still wonder about this noise issue. How does the piston ck out in the bore? And what condition is the skirt? Just as a side note, we put together a go-kart motor a couple weeks ago. One of the fellows at work has his kids racing these little 50cc itialian jobs you see. Well these little crank bearings he got were SOO special! Little double row shallow groove things that actually would pivot a bit to allow for minor crank misalignments in the cases! As they need to get all they can out of these things! The money spent on trick carts is just crazy, as everything is high science, yet highly regulated with the rules and the classes. What is little better than a weedeater motor costs $700.00 us !!!! Italians!!!!

Try removing the muff and cracking the line at th top of the master cyl to let air out.

Good showing! I think Pat was noticably overwound going into this first JR event. Add the travel and crap! I talked to him a bit last weekend and he was just not himself. He just needs to relax and do his thing, it is Ok, have some FUN boy!! Craig, tell him, You only sucked on the first day! Ha! I wish I could see all those sections so I could figure out how to get that many points out of him! And the others! In Oklahoma!

You need to ck this closely, as many times I have fount that the front tire is not fully seated on the rim. There is a small casting line on the tire you can use to judge by. These things can be a real pain to seat properly sometimes, and can require special lube to get them to seat! Along with lots of pressure! I have seen many that were never properly beaded-up from new. Creates a thing as you describe!

So to summize, yours(06) came with the roller bearings which accounted for the end float and you state the bearing was worn on the flywheel side , yet you were initially unable to detect verticle movement, is that correct? Then instead of finding the factory replacements, you opted for some other (super) bearing that is supposed to last better if you are lucky? And now you are the official test program pilot for this program which includes regular thrashing for the next decade to proove your point. Is that also correct? And even yet, did the noise go away? Just playing devils advocate here. MC

The shaft looks good from the photo, although you can polish it up a bit withsome scothbrite or something. If memory serves me correctly, the bearing must come out before you can access the inner seal. If it is stuck, you can heat the cover in the oven to about 250f and it should near fall out. A gentile tapping on its inner race through the opposing side may be required. Tap evenly! Everything should rotate freely when assembled with the exception of the drag of the seals and the impeller should not drag or really even contact anything in the housing. If so, ck for warpage!

Much depends upon just how far in advance I have planned upon falling down that day!

It would probably help if you could elevate the front wheel, then use a 60cc syringe(pet or animal supply) and hose to the nipple and to push fluid (and air) back through the system, then lock the bleeder down and try it! Don't mess with the rod if it in adjustment!

Well, he beat Laia! Craig can't do that!