copemech

If I understand correctly, Neo rides the crap out of this thing almost every day! I am starting to worry about those main seals if a carby does not change it! !

Go for it!

Not sure which Mark, but I am! Nutter! It seems ironic to me now, but there was actually a point in time that I could probably do this. Back in the 80's there was a period where I would use a borrowed TL125 honda to go watch the MX races when I was out a bike! Well , the power and engine braking were soo perfect I could go on forever it seemed, up, down over bumps and such, round the 20 or so acers of parking lot, no prob! Little blingers off the trees too! Today, I cannot muster a sit down, on a new bike! All just very frustrating! Too jerky, need brake and such! Good luck!

Well, since the posts were lost, it is not funny anymore! The explosive power of castor oil and Viagra are only available in Douchland!

I suppose this a Dellorto, so I will chime in a bit. Depending upon your fuel, the #35 #36 range on the pilot may work better, with another turn or so out on the(fuel) screw, which allows more fuel, yet still in range. The 118 main should be ok, but you may need to run the crap out of it to get some heat in the motor and clean things out to rev cleanly. And get that excess oil out of it!

Were there pics of the completed long stroke TY80? Maybe I missed them?

You see Brian! On SALE for L5500? I can buy a good Sherco 125, and 250 for that, just to complete to the collection, all '07!

I seen your earlier post and was thinking about it a bit. Not quite sure how your dailt temps are running over there, but ? On a cold day, mine have always done that, but I get the feeling you are in somewhat warmer weather now. Are you getting the oxigenated(alcohol induced) fuel? What pilot jet are you running? Give the carb a good cleaning and blow out the passages with air, but I will tell you I have had to go up to the #38 pilot to address fuel issues here. So if yours is say a #33, these things could be giving you problems.

Well, hopefully at least you have been running a good quality synthetic oil at least, this tends to keep moving better and prevent a lot of hard carbon buildup. I think it was Ham that stated he would plug the ends of the muff and pour in fuel to slosh them as a solvent, then place a air hose in it and let it vent to evaporate the fuel residue after dumping it in the waste oil tin. As long as the stuff is still liquid, this should work in removing a lot, and a cleaning brush that can be inserted in the inlet may help too. You could use a hairdrier on cold to keep air circulating in a well vented area while drying it out. As there should be no remaining fuel upon reinstall.

Sounds like a water or venting problem to me, or float/needle? Did I suggest you to empty your fuel can in a clear clean plastic jug to see what comes off the bottom? As a matter of fact, empty that carb in a clear vessle while you are checking it. Those carbs run on a 125, so I doubt your theory holds true.

Well, they do seem to drag a bit, specially when the oil is cold. As long as it starts (kicks through) easily enough whild in gear, and does not want to creep a lot(pull you) at idle in gear, it is probably ok. If you are getting too much drag it is time for new plates due to warpage.

Pretty much yes, or at least stop up the muff with oily gook!

Easy enough to pull the lower screws out of the legs, pump them dry and refill with 330ml of 5wt fork oil per leg. I always try to combine maintenance tasks, so I will pull the front wheel, lube bearings, ck/replace brakes, slide the fork tubes out and remove the caps to drain and refill after I pack the steering stem bearings.

Well, that is good news then!!!!! You see, as things go, I still have open issues in my mind regarding these piston noises and other engine noise on the bikes. Add the fact that these things get beyond the ability to diagnose long distance. Coming from an old background of aircooled MX'ers where all was the same but different, we got 3 races on a piston, couple of pistons then a rebore so things fit, and so forth. These plated watercooled things are different, yet ? Tolerances can be held tighter, the bores are tough but not bulletproof, the pistons still are the sacrificial unit, as well as the rings, as I do know well enough one must run the soft rings in a hard bore(chrome or nickel) and visavie. Then you get into the dirt issue, ruining both components potentially, yielding much wear and slop(and noise). Coming into the trials realm this decade, I admit I was a bit biffed by some mentions of freshoning up the bikes with just rings? Ok, I can understand that to a certain point of wear on the components, but just how effective is it? In other words, will a new ring set stabilize a piston that is somewhat worn enough to tone things down and keep them from rattling? Your case is an example. What actually fixed the noise? Then I get into normal wear, even on a good bore, how often should it be done? My 2.9 has a bit, I have run it hard at times during testing. Never kept one this long either. As I still consider this long term testing and have not had it apart. The 125 would normally get more revs and abuse than a 2.9 I would think, and require more maintenance. Others can chime in about simple ring replacement and their experience.

Slapshot, is it A "339" or "839" 2AR cannot read as it was run together a bit, sorry, I think that 339 is correct, but must verify. Could be AB39 i suppose? Dont want things going to ?

Is Skype not free? Free works! Not sure how it all works though, yet wife and daughter have figured out how to do their own video confrencing. They sell these phone cards in every convenience store where you get soo many minutes cheap and good fro international calls from a standard phone. Also, i think the cell providers have plans for a price that could work, pay the added for the time and call anyone, anywhere!

Fresh bores and new piston sets require the most break in time. If you did what I think I understand, and freshened the mains, and installed new rings, then other than the initial set of the rings to the bore(minimal) there should be nothing special here, and the rings are pretty much set in to the old bore after the first ride. Does it sound better?

Paypal!

Well it is a '76 model Cessna 150, basic but with enough stuff to go somewhere. Full IFR with moving map GPS, the only way to go ! Yea, there is also a nice little airport in Jasper, near TTC!

Dabster's Monty experience speaks volumes. The things are not without difficulty at times. All that is BS! From what I have seen, the other 4T's do just as well as the Mont in most cases. You either ride 4T or you don't. I have ridden enough 4T bikes in my lifetime nothing bothers me. All choice. Ask those pre 65 riders how they put their nickers on in the morning.

It is somewhat ironic, but these things have their value in personal satisfaction, as one rarely realizes any return monitarily for their toils! Clive, I will tell you that I have soo many hours in one of them planes, I don't really want to fly the friggin thing once i'm done! It is just an old basic POS! Sorta like the Bultaco, I don't neccessarily want to ride the friggin thing, just putt about , look at it, polish it! Whatever! As one only has soo much time and effort(and money) to devote to things, I spent more weekends riding for several years, then I had to lay off and put time in to get things done. In the last six or eight months( 2 years), I have managed to get the wings painted, along with all control surfaces, reinstalled and it all runs! Has completed high speed taxi tests and the wheels (almost, yea) left the ground. New interior is the next thing. Money and time! If I am lucky enough to find the time and money to fly the thing up to BC to go visit Fracy, I may well stop by to see you on the way! Do you have Coors?

It is obvious to me that she is young and inexperienced, as it is the inside arm that must be kept straight whilst the other bends around while the the ass is being put towards the outer limits for balance!

The bearings will tap out of the links easily, specially if you expand the ali a bit using a bit of heat from a hair drier or something. Proper sockets are key, and you could use some type of flat plate to insure the new ones are square and started properly upon a flat surface. Takes three hands and two sets of eyes on the X-Y axis to get it straight if you are unsure. Just under flush on either side when done. As long as there is still rubber in the shock ends, I would not mess with them!

This may explain things! Although I have a gut feeling things may go downhill from here!