copemech

Jon, you are missing the point here I think. It just seems to me that some of these things just sound like a "Box 'o Rocks" as you ride them, and others do not! Oh, i agree with all that other crap(that I put much more basically) yet I cannot explain to anyone why there seems to be quite a bit of varience between some bikes? As with most anything, there seems to be a norm, and then both extremes. At what point does one consider the upper extreme abnormal? And what if anything can be done? In this instance, I do not have the answer and am not quite sure who does? Fact is, as we are not there, even quantifying this issue is difficult at best, yet we must rely upon the first hand info as given. And possibly he himself should get a better "feel" for the norm by riding other similar bikes?

That does look rather nasty! Think you may well be on track here, yet you could run a verification test since you have no real history on it. Fill the tranny with ATF and just add water to the rad as this is no long term test. If it comes out with low coolant and ATF looking like a strawberry milkshake, well you have hit it! MRS should be able to fix you on any parts, and if the pump shaft is grooved, replace it along with the seals and bearing if needed. There is a recent thread on water pump replacement with a good pic and tips to go along with the process in the stickies on the RYP site. Only other tip I can tell is maybe not normally totally top the rad, as the excess will be put out the overflow as things warm up. However in your case, this may hurry the test result. But normally I just fill the top tank about half way, so enough to cover the coils and just leave some headspace for expansion. Hope that helps,

I have seen some use the fairly thin grade of the Ali Tread Plate, cut to size and formed a bit with rounded edges, then rivited to the muff! Looks good and tough!

I suggest you take this to the Sherco threads and take a look at some of the history within as it has all been stated prior and on the stickies on the RYP site that are posted. There are hints and tips in the threads, but you will need a flywheel puller for sure. Rest is very striaghtforward. I recommend you do your proper homework prior to disassembly, then you will be much better prepared prior to undertaking such a project blind and paying for the goofs! No easy answers here! Alt, call Ham!

Aye, good lad! You are now ready to proprely review all the other material on the RYP site IN DEPTH! and make sense of it all in your head! A firm understanding on just how things work is a big plus! You have passed the test! With a B, should give you a C for lyeing!

Well, once again, temp and baro changes throughout the day can change things. I mean, I even keep a thumbscrew type adjuster on the dellorto fuel screw to adjust accordingly. In stoich theory, the airscrew would be almost 15 times more sensitive to changes stated for a proper mix range, normally considered 1/2- 1 - 1/2 on the screw range for best range of adjustment sensivity. Thing I cannot reconcile is the continuous need to richen the mix by reducing incoming air through the screw. The restricted exhaust theory may come into play simply by inducing more partially burnt mix into the combustion chamber returning through the exhaust port and having a low oxygen content thrown into the mix, which requires an enrichment of the primary fuel/air source. This should normall yield lower performance on the bottom end and possibly more high end ? Need to see if Clav can report on his findings still. Yet while we wait, what about Neo, his fuel dump, and even the try of the 24 on the bike?

Oh yes, Peter is very correct, and I have at some point examined these things up close. Contrary to popular belief, I usually try to steal a quick spin on a variety of new bikes every year. Yet in one instance I recall as example, one of the KS riders had a new 200 which I took about the venue. It was just horrid! Yet I have ridden others which seemed what I would consider quite acceptable by my poor set of averages and listening to other bikes. I am totally unsure other than the "what seems" given that some noise is just normal, if it can be reduced or not. No less, the bikes are good runners, so I don't knock them, as all seem to have their own quirks. Within all the brands there does seem to be some lack of response on various potential issues by the factories. Almost as though they do not understand, or do not want to?

I can well see this one being a bit flat, cause with the needle down it would limit fuel in the throttle range. Yet I would not think the needle position would normally have much anything to do with the idle properties if things were right... meaning no abnormal float levels as the needle is in front of the throttle valve and there should be no true vacume there at idle as vacume is maintained only upon the back side of the slide. There is a transition port installed just behind the needle, which should take over at a crack of the throttle and before the needle gets off the straight part. The actual idle circuit port in the bore is so exceptionally small(possibly even smaller than the low speed jet itself) that anything could disturb it. This is the critical one, and must be backflushed with cleaner and blown out with air, several times to insure the circuit is clear all the way back to the airscrew as I recall, which should be removed when backflushing the circuit. I know I am forgetful, but Neo, tell me again what jetting is in this and what needle. What fuel tank vent(standard hose?) along with what came out of the carby this time.

Well, it would be due to excessive clearances and variences between the crankshaft drive gear and the clutch basket drive gear. I have no idea if this theory is totally correct, now exactly how one would fix it short of hopefully finding a better set? I am also unsure just how much research has been done on this issue? If I were going to inquire, I would seek out Factory Kev in the UK, as I cannot tell you more.

I think much depends on how often and how hard you ride. Many of these things last a long time if you keep clean air filters and such. May last years! The compression and rattle would be the points to monitor, as often a ring set will freshen them up.

You should print those so he can recall what a 2T was!

Well done then, now you also know to pay careful attention to the scales on ANY calibrated unit! AND if you must perform a conversion from metric or to some other form of measure, double check ! ALWAYS! I hope you used the blue locktite!

I think that putting that much pressure on a lip seal would actually help them seal! I think one would need to T in a sensitive low pressure guage to do this properly at low pressures such as a tire guage. Mine is a glycerine filled unit with 0-15 in 1/2 psi increments i think. And then on the other hand, the entire question is weather or not it is sucking air, so one would really need to perform this with a handheld vacume pump or summat. Once again at relatively low vacume. Neo, patronize me again by gently removing the carb and loostening the bowl screws(may need other hands to hold) then gently remove the bowl and pour it into a clear pyrex bowl to see what comes out and settles in the bowl. No outside debris allowed. Then put it back all nice and clean, and ride it without the vent tubes installed.

I do not claim to be a gasser expert, yet I have listened to many of them and some just seem noisier than others even off new. My opinion on this may be off, yet I still think it may be mostly normal and in my mind I would still attribute it to primary gear rattle. Take up the slack by load an it is ok so all is well.

B*****ks, those things do not normally come off by themselves especially that quickly! Tell us what you really did wrong? I know you fingered something, it is OK, we all learn that way! You see, now you know, and are almost a pro! maybe?

Ok, now that we are on the right thread at least, I will attempt to do a short operational description on your little Yellow wire! It is the one coming up from the stator that powers everything else BUT the ignition on the later Leonelli ignitions and also very similar to the earlier Ducati systems. This is connected to the source coil that runs the fan and lights and horn and such. With this wire disconnected, the ohm spec through the generating coil to ground(earth) is around 1 ohm according to spec. This coil circuit generates an AC voltage when running that varies with rpm. As things like light bulbs and horns really do not care fore the most part, they will function with AC voltage, they may get brighter or dimmer, but there are still operational limits to their design, so a voltage regulator is connected to this output in order to essentially shunt off all excess voltage back to earth at higher rpm's. And that is what it does at around 12V-14V. As we are on watercooled bikes, we need a fan to move some air and keep things in the motor when we are not moving fast enough to keep things cool by natural airflow past the radiator like a MX bike. So we need these little high output motors that happen to run on 12V DC power. In order to make our system power into something that the DC motor can use, we have to convert it. This is what the rectifier does which essentially chops the incoming AC waveform poperly in half, only letting the usable portion through and shunting the rest to earth so the fan motor can use the remainder.(notice a poor earth on a regulator can fail your fan). If you add a little thermo switch in your fan circuit, it should turn on and off properly! Your lights should be fairly stable and you can ride happy! All off one wire and two little widgets with a switch!

Providing your pump is circulating hot water, yes!

You need to straighten up a bit, Clive! You look short with your knees bent, snort/ snicker! ps- I would blame the clutch too on that one, cars are too slippry!

Well as noone has managed to move this thread to a proper location, I shall make an attempt. Firstly, you want to know a lot of information in a drip of response! This is not going to happen, as the operational theory of each circuit is not that easily explained. Secondly, I have no friggin idea even what year bike we are attempting to address, no less why? they do differ! Thirdly, some of this is considered "dark art" and noone will tell! Probably because your static testing will yield no result that matter! Static testing makes little difference in the function of certain devices installed.

Ok, just crack the bleeder on the slave cyl briefly to see if fluid spurts out and your drive returns, then shut it off just as quick. Did you get the rod to return? did you check the lever pin adjuster? Or did you just cram it all back in?

Sweet bike Craig. Guess you heard about not putting the ethanol induced fuel in the fiberglass tanks? Or is yours a cover over ally? Not to change the subject though, maybe Lane and Deb can just gang up on Phillip and beat into his head the fact that "crashing" is not an option! It will kill you!

please move to the Sherco threads

I have to tell you that unless you are fat like ZIPPY, the 250cc bikes are much more pleasureable to ride, of any brand, and still have plenty of power. All the bikes you mention can be violently powerful! Think twice ! Unless you are, or intend to be quite good, the bigger bikes can defeat your pleasure.

Another well done to Deb! I do not recall all the specifics, but I do recall hearing that she had suffered some severe injuries sometime back, and am happy to hear she is hanging in there, hopefully recovered. A real trooper she is! Cheers Deb! We still love you! ps- Go cook breakfast Lane!

Well Carl, at least it sounds like you are enjoying some fun riding. That Mont should make you appreciate the older Sherco! That bike can still kick butt! We have had lots of rain and moderate temps so far, a nice break, that will change shortly I am afraid! Heat and more heat!