copemech

Now, this does actually sound like a leaky crank seal issue with the bike pinging and revving itself up. That is how these things happen! Yet start with a clean carby and fuel, be sure the fan is cycling properly and there is no loss of coolant and the pump is turning.. If the piston and the rest is ok, then the seals have probably taken a set from non use and expired! I have no idea bout the cable thing.

Ok then, we use 450ml on a drain and fill for the things. 10ml makes little difference, but you will not alter the clutch feel with the quantity, only the grade or thickness(viscosity) will change that, or the additives in the fluid that may alter the frictional properties. If the plates were fine up untill the recent event, then they are probably still ok. That rod should push back into the slave cilynder under some light pressure,"IF" your clutch lever adjuster screw is set to allow a full return in the master cilynder piston, which then opens the return port so the fluid can flow back up to the resivoir, as these always need just a bit of slack so they can work properly. Should be no need to crack bleeder and or possibly induce air into the system. Or you could remove the two retaining screws on the slave cyl, and push the piston back in manually, but fact one still applies.

I think someone took it up the rear after all that! I never go to Michigan or Cali because of all these goings on!

Well, all I can say in brief is that there are lots of suspension dynamics involved, and more is not always better! Jacking up a spring too much reduces its sensitvity and reaction under acceleration when traction is needed most, may reduce the ability to fully compress it to gain rebound off the jounce rubber when you need it and soo fourth. Then too much can also become a pogo stick! Seems all bikes have a certain amount of static sag and a MX bike can be a good example as they are really long in the throw! They may have 2-3 inches of sag off the start, which just floats over things as it all works over the whoops and yet traction unbroken because they don't "top out" easily and work within their range. As my basic understang is that the factory springs on most all modern trials bikes are set for the "average" 150-175 lb rider, I do know a few riders that could do with a heavier spring, yet few bother with it. Even if done, the baseline would not really change.

All personal pref I think! I have tried some variety, but the factory spec states 10-40? 10-40what? Others have used anything from cheap ATF for a quicker clutch action, to 20-50 for smoother clutch action. The specialty gear oils are another option, PJ1, IPONE, Elf and such. Honda and Yam each have their own gear oils. I think in there somewhere you may have stated that you had noticed some drag on the clutch when disengaged? It may need some new plates as well soon still. FYI, I have been running the Merc spec full synthetic ATF of late. Seems OK, without too much cold stick problem.

"Are they repackable?" Well, if you can cut out all the welds, and are handy with the TIG torch, it can be done! Not very practicle though. I do think that the longevity of these things is somewhat determined by the oil used, as it seems the hard carbon buidlup is the most offensive and clogs the baffle tubes. The oil that is still oily will eventually move out on its own.

Wifey(the cat freak)liked it even! Now if I can just get this cat to go for the ball on the fan!

Well Neo, I do not know about all that, I am sort of a Forrest Gump style fundamentalist! Just try to work through issues in the most fundamental and cost effective manner I can think of. All that said, I and others in high standing on this side of the pond simply do not like the Kiehin's as they are overly sensitive and have issues! Up hill, down hill, temp and baro changes, whatever, they work best in one position, and that is WIDE OPEN on a PRO bike! They make a bit more power! And these guys like Smage and such pay the price and adjust accordingly for maximum performance! A trade off. Set'um rich off the bottom, and let 'er rip! Clean them every day if needed! They do seem to work better in a level position, such as jumping from log to log on the rear wheel! My ne off the '03 bike forward was issued with the 45/125 set and the JJH needle. Ran ok, barring the downhill issues. Adjust for the day. Yes, I had my fair share of the pinging issues with the dellorto untill recently, seems ok for the most part now, and yes the motors are still basically tweaked for preformance from the factory is seems. Squish, compression ratio, timing are all somewhat on the edge to begin with. Add this ****ty fuel we get with up to 10 percent alcohol and then? If we wanted them to run like a Scorpa, they would have built them like a friffin Yamaha motor. I found the entire issue somewhat beyond the scope of my patientence and checkbook sometime back! Not necessarily trying to be the killjoy on this issue, and is though a major reason I have been interisted in the "Neo" factor, as he is trying things that I could not find the time or money to do! We shall see what Clav reports with the exhaust change.

I think you may be referring to the slack motion in the floating front disc. There are inserts under the retaining bolts that allow some clearance and movement. This is normal. Of course the rear linkage is progressive, and I normally find that the rear spring set to no more than an inch of static sag(weight of bike only) is about right. It should float lightly within 0-1 range unless you are heavier, then you might kick it up a bit less. The rear linkage should be cleaned and overpacked with waterproof grease on a regular basis and any questionable parts replaced. At best, the normal clearances in the linkage will translate into a bit of freeplay at the end of swingarm when unloaded. Hope that helps,

Clav, have you tried cleaning the muff yet? Possibly some creedance in that theory of higher than normal back pressure? More partially burnt(lean) mix entering through the exhaust when opened by the piston at low rpm's. Also an increased mid range surge as things come back into pulse range dynamics, and even accentuated by a richer needle. I still favor the electric heat gun thingie, one that you can set to just blow air after the fire is started! As pre Neo's statement of weight loss? I have an old dented muffler that is set aside for welding practice, and i weighed it out at 2035 gr., or just over two kilos. It has some buildup in it, seems hard carbon. Just not sure how this might possibly relate, but may give some point of referance as/ if one is signifigantly heavier.

Sounds like a poor earth (ground) contact, as when you changed it all worked!

Carl, I would not bee too inclined to mess with the '06 shock as far as repairs go, as they just seem too troublesome. Lewisport sells the TRP shock, yet they are a bit pricy at about $800 now I think. The Ohlins is highly rated and the standard of comparison it seems. And a bit more costly. He gets them as well, but I think they are special order. Occasionally a Sherco shock will pop up in the classifieds section on the front page. Maybe if you register and place a wanted ad, someone will have a little used 07-09 stock shock for a reasonable price. ????

Is not MRS the UK importer? Good place to start, and get the correct stuff!

It's a "TAPON"!!!! Can't you read espanol! Otherwise exactly as stated by Portman! Not sure exactly when they started using them, as I don't recall seeing them on earlier years. Could be wrong?

So the nut and shaft threads are OK? Just lost some metal from the outer plate hitting the cover? -------" torqued airgun socket"------- Let me know as soon as you find one of those things you can set at 43! Or 45! The conversion from the 60NM spec i did suggests 44.25 I think it was. Oh, you can use an airgun easily enough, but they are not that easily controlled. BEWARE! the torque on this nut is sensitive, and you could well ruin the shaft! It is ealily enough done to zip them off and back on using an airgun, IF they are scribed together prior, but doing this with no refrence mark is questionable at best. A skilled individual can get close. I was probably younger than you when I had to learn to fix my own bikes, as could not afford otherwise, so i had to invest in the proper tools at times. This is a judgment call, use it! Where are the pics !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's 45 ft/lb and bloody tough toget it right without the proper tool to hold it! Ck HERE

Lots of good shots, gives a good feel to the sections! Better cameras even take a lot of bad pics sometimes! Nothing wrong with yours, good job! Let's see the vid ov Doug!!

As a matter of fact, I have this certain folding stant that has the strange name ritten in marker. Could be the one! I will take 300 for it! And if you want a real one it will cost you !

All good clips there Fellonmelug, top job! Watching these guys makes me feel better! (I am not the only one who gets off in the rocks!)

Bump! Anthing to tell?

I have seen some of these guys, just nuts! I cannot even imagine the money spent on these things, even as compared to a modern MX bike. They need too cut their nuts and make them all ride honda 70's, just like Nascar! Best rider wins!

I am thinking a loose nut behind the wheel! Lay bike on side. Remove outer cover 4 screws. Remove the six 8mm bolts that retain springs. Lift off top clutch plate. Inspect for a loose clutch hub nut or a broken/ cracked clutch plate "basket" assy. Take piccys so we can shame you later for abusing the bike!

It sounds somewhat encouraging that you did that, the methods vary, yet I think you are finding results!

With rare exception, pretty much true to this day! An Icon in his own time and beyond! A true nutter, with watermelons for gonads! On a Harley! The mind reels !!!!!!!! I can recall jump contests on MXbikes ,back when I was really young and dumb, that extended out to 60-70 ft.(20-25m) as this was the same era, we had not too much suspension. Not even close!

It almost seems odd in a way just how far battery technology and motors have changed over time. As a child, myself and other local kids build flying model aircraft. It was great fun and we built some high performance stuff, all on a control line as we could never afford the remote control units, we just had to build and fly our small units, some of which were not that small, out of balsa and silk. I can recall some having a large wingspan, over a meter, and powerful motors. Point being, electric was just crap! Best as I recall might briefly power a glider just long enough to get it up before it ran out of power. Most these were free-flight, as they would not lift the weight of the electronics for remote control. Although I have been somewhat aware for some time, yet not wanting to venture back into modeling, a friend at work got one of these new electric remote planes and I was totally shocked! He had fixed a video cam to it, could survey the entire surroundings for an eternity, including the topless neighbors by the pool, and have it posted for viewing the next day! Total cost about 300 quid! How long will it be before Atomant starts charging the employees to hook up at work! Economy of scale is still an issue here, as in the motorbikes, otherwise I would be hopping into my electric plane for a quick 10 minuite jaunt to work for the 17 miles! They are doing some wierd stuff with the electronic controls as well on these things(such as admitted on the clip) which gets into the realm of pulse power to gain efficiency. An electric trials bike? Maybe? Yet? It is just another wierd application at this point!