copemech

Yea, but I still a bit miffed about what you are looking at, as I look at the '07, the top tank is just bare ali. Normally, my inclination would be similar, either something i can patch or not, just get a new one! I have a glass bead blaster to clean things, but if the ali is too thin or corroded, even the epoxy is risky. Although still not convinced this is the major problem, as normally many may not run them hard enough. As up to a certain point, there is little or no pressure build and the fan just sycles to keep things within a cooler range then cycleles back out. In other words, the cooling capacity has not been exceeded of the basic system not relying upon pressure as long as there is sufficient level and flow without the need for pressure that is naturally developed. Some really hard running!

It amazes me just how many of these names I know, and although I was into mx in that day and time, some are just legend, yet I know or have met several, still riding! Tom Batchelor and Eddy Kessler are locals and enjoy giving me a spanking on a trials bike! Rick Land is a friend as well, still a really good rider, his son is top notch! Dale Malecek is still on top of his class, know him well enough too, even MartinBelair would know me, as we have spent some time in Texas and the WTC. Others I have met, but point being, it is such a small world of Trials, you just meet folk by getting out there and riding, no matter the class. Seems to some extent all in the same boat! Always bits and pearls of knoweledge from these folk! They are just too good to others! Carl Peters, well he may not remember me, but I asked him a question once, and the conversation went on for an hour, Jerry Young, well another story, he likes killing me!

I think the stock bike is fine unless you just want to spend more!

That actually looks pretty clean for a Biff original, white with red yokes and such! Tell us again what the WGASA stands for? Never knew myself really! Back in the old MX days, we did have team LAGNAF (Lets All Get Nice And Friendly), some suggested other meanings!

Did you ever check the quantity of atf that came out? As it was suspect due to the seals. I don't think the thing with the rad would set things off unless you lost a lot of coolant nad does not explain smoke from exhaust. I do not quite know how one would run a pressure ck on it , as I have no adapter for the cap. Guess one could remove it and just use the hose ends to pressure it up. There may be some type of pressure rating on that cap, measured in bar or something, not quite sure how that works out relative to PSI or such. You would likely have to do the conversion.

Aye, you see! A right tite sscootsman can run that crap as premix as well! Actually, the uused stuff from the local garage works better for the premix, as t'is, it always partially burnt already, all you have to do is finish it off! Does samoke a bit, but not a problem less you are the one behind in the que! Ye can puut the crapin ye furks tou! They dun't care!, Oil ye'r friggin chain with the remains, so ye'r recyclin crap! Yeu caneven yews it to spank the monkey if you like, has better lluubricating properties!

Although I do not have the 3.2 4T, the Kiehin that I do have for the 2.9 runs the same basic jetting and such. Same principles apply and I still think our alcohol induced fuel is not as good! I have a couple more ideas, but I do not have one to play with! Volunteers?

A Ducati diagram.

He,he! Yea, I remember this hillclimb section in TN that went wrong! He survived, but his underwear did not! He probably recalls that one, great save! Only a true champ could pull that off!

Yea, I seen one of them for Zippy! Big friggin pipe wrench with a pick and prybar end you can use for anything from icefishing to fire and rescue! Only tool he would ever need!

The more I think about this, the 48 may still work well as stated given the cooler winter temps and things could change as the weather warms. Both the carb and the 4T are somewhat sensitive to these things! And as you may already be on the outer limits of the airscrew working range, well you get the drift! As the K carb has no pre-screen(banjo) filter such as the Dellorto, an inline device may be recomendable? As the pre-screen in the tank(fuel valve) may not be up to the task. But on the same token, would be excess if your fuel supply is kept clean and good! A thing of some signifigance to mee of late has been the condensation developed in the plastic storage tanks of premix fuel. I have gotton to the point that I can no longer just assume there is no water or other "stuff" so as my jug gets low, I do not pour off the bottom into the bike without first inverting the can into a cleaned and dried 2 L or so cleaned and dried clear pop or juice bottle to let sit and settle! I think there is another potential problem with our alcohol laced fuel and fallout of the alcohol induced emulsified mix! You might be surprized to see just wot settles out of your can! After settling, you can pour the rest back, except off the bottom! Hopefully your stuff is clean, keep it so!

You really are,,,,,, Scottish? Everyone knows the 50wt ATF works the best!

Looks like fun, nice bike too!

I know this a bit ironic, but Gareth, watch it all again, then tell me again just how much distance you really need to perform that splatter ? Try it from downhill and nothing! Friggin amazing! n'Takes some gizzard!

Oh, I doo undersatand, and as such we do have special tape made even! Good stuff! It is more difficult to set though, not like throwing flags about. This is a problem unless your natural boundries take order to it!

You snowbirds can still come down for the Sooner Cup and I will provide buckets of that cheap Oklahoma beer! I have still enough tequila to make you want to strip and swim in the creek! If Bear and co. make it, it could get really interisting!

Hey Bob, Good on you then, but I doo still think the 48 pilot may bee a bit much? All the reports I have seen suggest that these carbs like to run in the .5- to 1.5 range on the screw to optimize their adjustment range and sensitivity, which does change a lot and require adjustments with temps and such. FYI only, as good is good!

I fully understand that the pictures may not do justice, and it is difficult, I am no pro at it! Ideally, your launch point would be about the same distance as the height of it! Place yourself a good kicker rock as referance launch pad, this IS practice you know! You can do that! Seems you were trying to accelerate prior to the launches, getting going a bit too fast, limit to walking speed only! Only time you made it, you got deeper in the knees! This is important as you need to compress the suspension more! Use a little double dip of the springs if needed, first to set the timing, then the second to get really low and compress fully while revving yet holding back on the speed and clutch. Untill the moment you and the bike come up, with a full pop on the clutch, just after the front rebounds from the kicker! In other words ,get your compression and timing! That is all I can tell you, oh, second gear on that one! Third with more practice! You might just fly right over it!

Biff, Curt is actually a member of this forum as well! I just had to send him a little PM of congrats! Well done! His screen name is hard to remember though. It is spelled Curt Comer! If I recall correctly he is a former US National Trials Champion as well, and I don't mean 45 class!

The "gates" being what they are, a short section of tape will nip that action quickly!

Damn mate, you got some talent! ( I shall totally refrain any butt crack jokes out o'respect)! Good on 'ya!

I am just surprized Zippy has not commented upon the Beerhammer! Probably due to the fact he is still in shock at my expertise! If anyone happened to notice those L handle allens with a ball end, good luck finding them! My kit went through 12mm! Priceless! White packs include exam gloves, plastic syrenges for specimine samples! And topping brake fluids! Spares kit includes the lubes! They are all in there somewhere!

He,he, that is reallygood! (we need to talk about your splatter tecnique)!

Mineral spirits is commonly sold as paint thinner for oil based enamels. Should be easily available. Does not evaporate off quickly and can be stored and reused after settling the dirt out. Not as oily as kerosene or diesel. Less flammable than gasoline or some other light solvents like laquer thinner. You just need to play with that rear damping screw a bit, as you do need some damping action to add stability. Some of this seems to depend upon the age and use on the shocker as well. I have found most all the factory bolts to be rather inexpensive to replace. So you could order one in advance just to have on hand the next time round and chunk the old one. Then there are those steering head bearings!

Yes, I think this is more realistic, yet also probably "new limit" spec. Typacally the "service limit" may be up too more than twice that amount, although I do not believe it is listed. As yours was at .003 and probably quite noisey. The majority of the wear should be on the piston itself and not the bore. So basically, if the cylender has no major gouges, you might want to do a light hone job on it and fit a B or C piston and get the clearances in line, and hopefully back to the range of .001 or possibly less. Honing in istelf can be critical, and unless properly done, i would almost rather see you just try to fit the B or C yourself!