copemech

A good bench vice can be useful, but actually I am not sure that I use one for the trialsbike stuff! I have a couple of good folding stands that work well, expensive! Yet to be honest, for the home shop, I am not sure that the MX style that you press a foot lever to raise the bike is not easiest and best. Opinions may vary. The traveling trials kitbox, well it still weighs in heavy, but somewhere in there 90% of everything needed, in life! Although I have downgraded from the claw hammer to the beer hammer! Yes, it has an opener in the stainless steel end!

Well Gareth, it is good you are taking interist, as the reliability of the bike and your satisfaction with it are primary. Keep things in good working order and it will last! New bikes are not cheap! There is a lot of info on the RYP site as per procedures. Seems I recall on the later models, the shocker needs to come out from the bottom though. Apan with sone mineral spirits and some sort of small brush will allow you to give the linkage components a good thorough clean and inspection. If the bearings have had too much water, they will be trash and the bushings pitted as well. Trash them! After drying(blow dry) and inspecting/ replacing bearings as neccessary, I like the Maxima waterproof grease, but I am sure there is other stuff out there. Some may state to mix it with anti-sieze compound, but if properly done with excess squeezing out upon reassembly, this is not mandatory. You can polish minor defects on the bushings with scotchbrite or crocus cloth, but if pitted , not! I have had to replace two bearings and two bushes over two years with proper treatment. Not bad! Swingarm bearing are not usually a problem area unless you are just exposed to lots of water, then every year! Coating the axel shafts themselves is a big deal, as you do not want them siezing in the bearings and such. Repacking of the steering head bearings is also advisable, another topic. But it seems all those small screws need a taste of grease or anti sieze. Do all you can, exhaust bung, fork clamps, engine bolts, All these little things make like more difficult if you let them corrode with use and washings! I can spend hours on wheels and spokes alone. Later, MC

These clearance specs seem very tight! Yet at .003 is very loose! As I think it should be much closer to about .001 range! Do a lookup on the metric conversions. At any length, seems things are out of spec and a new piston may be in order as you can always go a bit over using the ABC spec for sizing which is just a bit!

Funny, same thing happened to me with the friggin Serow on Sunday! POS!

I have several kits as well. I do not like to be overly equipped at home, less the wife find out and expect too much from me ! Air compressor is always useful though. I have many expensive professional tools from snap-on and the like, but for general use, that is why I ask about the Sears brand, as they make ans sell several good assortments such as a kit ov about 20 top quality screwdrivers that can be had for as many quid! Socket and ratchet sets as well. Guaranteed for life! Who's life I am not sure? For pliars, slipjoint, needlenose and sidecutters, Channelock brand is the standard for most, as is Vicegrip type and brand of clamping pliers! Crescent is the brand for adjustable spanners, although I have found others priced less and decent quality. For the most part, my trialskit is also the shedkit, built for portability and 90 percent of anything I would need to do in the field or at home. Add to that, the spares kit, which travels in a tote box, which has things like levers and such, oils and plug in inflator and dog turds for a pinch! Rope wire and hose! You can never have everything it seems ,Yomee Beader! The old box, which I got as a teenager, still works well and has many trinkets in it. I could perform circumcisions or turn a Bull into a common cow with whats in the box! Even the trusty Camelback includes an adjustable spanner, folding allens and a 10mm spanner for on the trials! Another kit! Which is used more by others than myself, also the ty-raps! It all varies, as you can nevr have enough! But at the same time, well, you may not need it all(Murpheys Law)! I will try to post a piccie later!

This sounds as though the level is getting too high, either through sticky floats or some crap in the needle and seat. Wayne had reported minor plastic pieces probably from the tank effecting the jets even. I think I recall a setting on the 45 pilot as well, would need to look back through the posts for to be sure, yet I would not think there would bee that much spillage unless the levels were too high for a reason! Although I do realize they slosh a bit. Look back through the posts on this. One of the other members suggested blocking the overflow for this reason, but that may not help if something is wrong. I am not sure about the orientation of the bowl vent tube in the side of the bowl on the 4T, but on the 2T, they are too close to the muff and will shut off if there is a hose on it. Can clog with dirt, even with no tube. The drilling out of the left vent may be advisable if not done. I do not have one to look at, so unsure.

Ok, well firstly, there should actually be two sets of grooves on top of the tubes. These are for guaging the height in the yoke and it seems most run them somewhere in the renge of one or both showing, so what you describe would probably be somewhere in between. Some use them out fully and flush(raising the front of the bike) for muddy events, as it is said this transferrs more weight to the rear. I always like to lube the linkage off new, as you need to overpack them with the waterproof grease in an effort to keep crud out. Usually the rear spring settles a bit from new and may need to be adjusted once or twice as much as three full turns on the adjusting nut. I usually know when they are sagging a bit because the bike does not want to sit well on the sidestand with the front pointed left. There is a damping adjuster screw accessable using a long straight blade screwdriver from about the angle of the chain tensioner inward. Someone help me recall here, think it was fully clockwise(quickest?/max?) then back in about two or three clicks to taste, I will have to check and verify for sure. Yep, seems correct! The spring properly preloaded should yield a static sag(weight of bike only) of 20-30 mm as you lift the rear and let settle. And lastly, well all the linkage and related clearances doo add up to a small click or feel of lost motion even when things are perfect. This should not be excessive though. A loose shock bolt or pivot bolt on the delta link can cause this to be excessive as well. You really need to check it all thououghly.

And you just HAD to get a 280!

Those settings seem to work fine. If you want a bit more damping, another click or two, but to taste!

Do they sell Sears/ Craftsman tools there?

Try scrolling down THIS page. Look familar?

Thats what I'm talk'n bout! Good one there! Print it so he can be embarrased, later! Like when you show them off at Christmas, and party's and everything else!!

Good on you then! Nice to see you on here. I have a bike, bought it a couple years ago, thikn I rode it once or twice. I need to get it out of the shed, cause I really cannot recall what it is! One of them Chineese things, a TANK or summat! Oh, it works, I don't!

I thought you got a new Scorpa ? Well, story I got was Bobby Duvall got one and killed the Sr EX in Austin a couple weeks ago! Bike seems nice for the price! Yes, I could ride one, no prob! Seems they may be limited availability with a roumoured 40 bikes available worldwide? Call Ryan! He will know!

Aye, that's the way I do it, as I cannot do too many things at once! The pice did sorta show ehere the bars were soo far back from the line of the fork it was limiting!

He He, What I meant WAS! To get these things to work properly, you need to understand what is going on here in this circuit. It is both regulated and rectified (those little boxes turn queer electrons into ones the fan can use). The regulator in this case just basically bleeds off excess voltage back to ground(earth) so at high revs things do not overcharge. Concievably, this could be bypassed, but only at low revs so the voltage remains low. The rectifier channels the AC voltage being produced into only one direction(DC) so the fan can drive from it as it is a DC motor. The motor itself can be tested using a 12V battery or other DC power supply to insure it runs.

Unfortunatly, that is the way these things go. Next thing is to call buddy with a bike like yours to swap parts. This is where the beer tab starts adding up!

Bikes from THIS decade go cheap enough!

Damn Zippy, I just had to pay for my re-up!!! At least the rates are better! I found it a bit miffed at first, but I understand it a bit now, put up a full disclosure, with mods and comments! Seem the only one thusfar! I like it though, some should expound more! Ham's is a classic!

This is a good basic diagram if you can read it! But basically you will notice that the path to the fan is regulated(voltage) then rectified(AC to DC) as the motor requires about 12V DC to operate. The only thing you can "hardwire " here is across the thermo switch. As if your primary coil is not producing voltage, then the regulator cannot provide it and the rectifier cannot change it to DC! you see! These basic principals apply to all, yet configurations vary.

And then you see we do still have a handful of the Older Class around to give us lessons in basic trials, as some of the ones I know that have been riding for decades now will just KILL you in the tight off cambers and such. And where a modern rider would want to hop, they never do. They can usually ride with much better feel for the course, as their experience has led them, and "the feel" for traction is a big deal! It does not come easily, but by experience! Everything is critical in these maneuvers, just takes practice! Which I sorely lack!

Once again just makes the point I was stating, and to the best of my knowledge I have never really seen a rider change a tire off new just for the sake of the sponsorship, as the bikes come with what they come with. Ronnie, are you making the Training Days?

What about the spark plug cap? May have been disturbed in the process of doing the rings?

K, still has the Raga fettish on, maybe he has assumed the nickname?

Well, that just confirms a point then, did not think I had lost it quite yet! If you can still hang with him, you are doing something I would not try! Seems Geoff still likes to ride a bit! Were you doing any of the 3.2 beer out there? Ronnie? On a Sherco perhaps?