copemech

Ryan Youngs DVD is a good start! Gives you a lot to work on! Get your mate to watch it with you, then give him a stick to rap your knuckels with every time you screw up! Before you know it, you will have mastered those basic tasks and your mate will have given you a good thrashing for being dumb! All is well!

Geoff Arron would practice on the ****tiest worn out Dunlop that I had ever seen! Non of us would even have it on the bike! And he would find the traction to do just stupid stuff! Makes you feel like a real turd when you see it first hand! Also makes you a lot less worried about that tire with no edges, these barely had any knobs left! And more dogturds stick out than a porqupine!

I could not resist a look at this little KTM 50 that one of my guys has sitting at the shop today. It has the same setup on the radiator cap so I popped it off, nothing there on the top elbow, as it seems the main relief spring and valve are in the larger part of the cap. Ishy's point is valid, as you just need to cover the cooling coils and top plate in the radiator and leave a bit of headspace for expansion, as anything else may be expelled anyway.

No! Standard carb works fine if properly tuned. If you need more power than a 2.5 can provide, well, most that are at that level just get the Kiehin! As there can be soo many small internal differences that it is not worth the bother!

Yep, the '07 version is longer!

I understand what you are saying, but I have seen different! These guys actually like these tires, and after several years of experimentation, I do too! The IRC has little price advantage over the Dunlop, but I would not take it out of the northern mud.

I think this is all overblown BS! If a track promoter is worried about someone sueing over the lead content of the bike, what about the six other riders you hauled off the MX track on a stretcher last week. They can sue too! For nothing less than you did not tell them the track was rough! Or someone might nail them from behind! Or they told you it was all easy! There are soo many injuries in the MX, that I cannot imagine! Kids nowdays have been promoted by all the X-treme crap. Few have the skills, less have the brains, and I myself can no longer condone it, as the bikes are rediculious, even an 80cc bike, just nuts on the power and control, or lack of it! Peeps need to get a grip on reality! Screw the Lawyers!

I think Anodizing looks much more professional. Not that costly, and you should be able to find a local plating shop. All you need to do is break them down and reassemble! If you are doing the hubs, the bearimgs should be removed and the inset surfaces protected from the plating would be best. An initial measure of the offset of the rear rim vs hub is advisable. This can easily be done by placing a straight edge accross the rim, then measuring down from the referance surface of the gear or disc mounting surface. Piece of cake! You should be able to get your stuff back together in days rather than weeks! Now, can you true a rim?

I have run the Dunlop on a couple bikes now and really cannot justtify the price on the Mich. The Dunlop , to me, seems to like a bit lower pressures and such, maybe not the best on the dry rocks, not sure? But the pro's run them!

Well, give us a report on what you think of it, Chris! Done any trials yet?

For some reason I agree with Tony, as my skinny rippling forearms have not dropped a pint yet!

Dan offers many good insights here, but as a Sherco rider for many years now, I can tell you things can be a bit baffeling as it does seem they like to push the front a bit more than some. On the '05 and prior Sherco Paioli fork there are the blue caps that are there to vent pressure and such. The o-rings are bad about leaking both air and small amounts of oil. I routinely replace the originals with a bit thicker section o-ring so they do not leak air. Thiss actually allows you to do a bit of adjustment for tight off camber sections by loading the fork and venting them, actually creating a vacume in them upon extension, and thusly a lower ride height which tightens the steering geometry. I will be the first to admit that for me this has been something of a baffling issue, as in some downhill off cambers, and yet prior to the certain transition point where you can use the rear wheel, there seems to be a point where the front would push and not bite at about the 1/2 point through the downhill turn. As we were in practice at the time of this specific time I used as example, my instructor(Ryan Young) suggested to apply even more weight toward the front so as to get more bite with the tire and turn untill the uphill and transition to the rear wheel power could be made. This actually worked under the circumstance, yet I still find it baffling. Seems one can use this initial loading of the front to then unload and drive from the rear during this transition. Difficult to explain and I have not perfected it at all! Yet may yield some insight

Not sure I want to see the antennae array for the broadband wi-fi setup!

Sounds like a real good project bike! IF you like projects! And bikes!

Looks like a lot of fun! Gee I actually remember when you could ges a MX bike to slide! We had a local practice area with a flat track of decent size that if dry and powdery or grasstrack, you could throw the MX'er into a screaming broadslide off the edge of the knobs, and there was a sandtrack down south of here we could ride as well, right next to the MX! My old CZ would slide like a speedway bike bout a 4-3 dounshift and a pitch left then wide open in the corners! Get the hot shoe with the MX boots on! Of coures they had probbly less suspension than a modern trials bike. Add I was really p****d to find later that none of this modern crap will slide, really! Seems just set for short corners and bite! The suspension and geometry of newer bikes with longer travel just does not seem to let it happen like the old bikes! This is something few will recall, yet I can even recall (flattracking) the outside line to win many holeshots in the MX events, as everyone on the insidr had to shut off! Oh well, things change!

Wayne put one on his earlier model and mentioned the price was about $500 usd! Still the hot setup!

So have you made any runs at it lately? Have not seen you much since off the Sherco, did you get my message to ask if you were on the FB thing?

As an addendum, I did find a report on a study done by the US Coast Guard that suggested that oxigenated fuel may indeed cause a stripping of some heavy moelcules from the polyester resins used in many older marine fuel tank systems. Apparently, these deposits cause engine problems! Particularly with valves and such in 4T motors. Yet logic dictates, there must also be some deterioration of the fiberglass itself! The avgas is sounding better!

I am just not sure about any of this!!!!! Biff made some sound pointers, but without anything to test it on? Well, I would be really careful. Even my '07 tank fit the '07 frame tightly in the areas you describe and they had to be pushed down in the rear which results in a crease in the lower right mid section. Most I have seen have been this way from day one. As mine has grown a bit over time, it is quite tight now. The lower section is within 1/8 in. of the muffler and the heat does not seem to phase it. But I really should put a bit of heat reflective material there. I have always heard the tank material was nylon, but I know of no way to confirm this. What information I was able to read on the subject suggested that nylon tanks had possibly better permiability charictaristics than some other plastics, which may explain why they are able to keep paint on them and keep stickers from peeling. That is all I can tell you. MC

As I recall, once you remove the seal, it should fall out. I think I follow that the bush on the end if the tube came off, so the tube came out of the slider without it, leaving it loose and the seal in place.

Have you not yet realized the fact that common sense is not a political option, as the extremists on either side now outnumber you!

Gene, I personally know of nothing that suggests that fiberglass would be more reactive to alcohol as compared to gasoline. There have been suggestions that steel tanks may be more prone to corrosion. It seems to me that the plastics are more reactive to ANY fuel! I can testify that my modern Sherco tank has "grown" over time, yet unsure as to why. You can still get 100 octane"pure" gas at your local airport! It has real "lead"in it! Witch does nothing for a 2T! But I have some hot starting problems with it, as it is blended for cooler temps! MC

I understand one of our locals got one and kicked some butt in the opening State rounds here, a SR Expert rider! Told you!

Remember them Italian Westerns?

As I recall, we ran three "active " sections at a time for the Pros, so they could ride the three sections three times each, spectatators could view each section close together if needed, then we would progress to the next three sections, and all could move between them. The sections being somewhat long and complex required 3-4 observers each, which were provided by the club, so none of the supporting riders had to be called in to observe, though there may have been club riders in the morning who helped in the afternoon. Seems to me the major problem in dong this type thing in a National would be getting maybe twice the number of support class riders through the sections in a given amount of time. Those sections would need to flow well. Doing the math on section time and number of riders becomes a problem of time! Some insight, hopefully! Been there, done that, bought too many t-shirts! Thanks Clive!