copemech

Go Caby Go!

l cnttype

ICANNOTT STOP LAUGHTI, ER, lAUGHING! Cooood one BR3!

These can be a real bitch! You must "split" the remaining race by cutting 2/3 the way through it with a grinding disc ,such as a Dremel tool, to score it. Do it at an angle as not to dig into the bottom yoke.Then take a cold chisl to "split" the race. You actually have to fracture it. Then it will drive off easily. Putting heat does no good as the ali shaft expands at a greater rate than the bearing! To go back with the new one, you may want to actually freeze the shaft in the frig, and heat the bearing. You can go as high as 300c on the bearing, and it should drop on, be sure to bottom it by hand or it will bounce up and then stick! You have approx 10 seconds to perform this operation! Rediculous, I know~ If it is a tight one, the only other install option is to polish down the shaft and even then, you need a good installer tube to drive the new bearing on! Hope that helps!

Good stuff, thanks!

So if I read the governmental regulatory BS correctly, they are not certified and you are still liable!

One of my buddies here just recently brought up something in another forum topic regarding this issue. The requirement of these things by certain governments sort of boggles my mind! In my mind, these little screens are worthless little expensive pieses of junk, thankfully they are not required here! I am just not sure I am 100 percent comfortable with this logic, as even though my memory is short, I cannot recall any sparks being SPEWN FURTH by any bikes! I have seen FLAMES from the exhaust of some 4T bikes, not in trials, but never anything I can recall from a sooty 2T but smoke, and the little screens certainly will not prevent flames! Same in a backfire situation, the screen is useless! Am I missing something or are the NUTS in control for sure?

So, in theory, if Al can fully compress the piston into the caliper, the next thing to go would be the disk! Seems I recall a pic of Barry trying that on a newer model, and the disk did not break, so it must work! Wheel looked kinda bad though! Al, you are telling your age again! Ha!

When I started this TREAD, I was not really referring to cost ov bikes, but just as Hensley said, things that carry over from year to year. Does Beta know how to fix a carb? Certainly, as none of their riders will be found without the mods. Does GasGas know how to weld on pegs? One would think by now! Can Sherco fit a mudguard? Not yet! Scorpa seem to have a very nice platform in the 2T although I am sure it has some quirks, but the bloody motor has been around 20 something years, so go figure! 4T, wellll? Do Monts really eat spark plugs? Build your self a map!

Soo true! But even on a new one there is variation that must be compensated for in order to work smoothly, thus the floating setup. The excess clearances on the past models was never really an issue, and if you think about it, it still allows things to move even when packed with dirt and mud! So there you go! They will actually rattle when you rev it !

I wonder what the rate of depreciation is on those sunglasses, I would not know, guess I am not cool enough to know!

Look nice, I don't thint you will have the problem of someone else hopping on your bike by mistake! I need to make some that say "ISHY" and send them to him for free--- but he is too cheap to pay the post!

For some reason it appears they have fixed that on the "07. I think the wave rotor fits the spacers better but could be the other way round.

Paul, if you working on them you ARE screwed! The only peop;e making money on a Honda is the Parts Department when they fall over. Grab your wallet! For all those who think the price of a new bike is not much, what is it worth ina year or two? The rate of depreciation is shocking!

And I remember paying L1000 for a 12mhz computer that was not worth a crap, with exchange rates here, everything has increased. I here the 4T beta will go over $8000! That is L4000 roughly. More Bitch!!!!!! And will it run?????? Who knows, may have to sort it like the others.

I know it has been too quiet here, so I will start it! Why is it some or most of the manufacturers of trials machines just cannot seem to get it right? Everyone has a love/hate relationship with the bike it seems, some more than others. Do the Spanyards, Itialians, French or Japs even understand ENGLISH? Beta's p***, Gassers pegs fall off, Sherco mudguards do not fit properly and twist, God help you on a 4t whatever! Mont= more money, that will help! This is nothing new, and at the cost of bikes, well-------comments welcomed HERE! Tell your stories! Some of this crap should have been recalled! Lets hear it!

Billy, I do not disagree wit much you ave stated, yet I can tell you that running closer to stoich, on the left side, smoothes the response. The VX plug provides better ignition with no starting problems! That is another story. The throttle chop pink, is as stated, yet to the absolute minimum! And there you find the sweet spot! Never heard any once warm! A very fine line though, and varies with the weather. So there you go!

Looks as though mine went on automatic as well, no prob. Will fix it!

If you guys keep it up he is going to kick my ass for starting this TREAD! If Ringo pays up we will all be better off!

Billy, You rode it started off cold(quite cold), It improves when warmed up! And NO you did'nt say ****1! I have some reservations about the PHBL, yet without major alterations I have found that you can achieve a pretty smooth operation with just the pilot jet and airscrew if you run just a tad bit on the lean side. With the 35 pilot and 2 3/4 turns out on the fuel screw and needle in 3rd groove, there is a pretty good transition to the needle. With a 36 or larger, the transition gets blubbry! A slight pink when you chop the throttle does not bother me as you are cutting fuel off a that point. But only slight. Once again a tradeoff! I think Tom is still installing the 33's out of the box, and probably running 3 1/2 turns out. This gets to the very limits of the screws effective range which I also have a bit of problem with. The #35 will fatten up nicely if needed. Ryan is using a #38 on the pilot, full rich, they want max power, NOW! To hell with the rest of it! And lean on the top at a 115! for MAX power in the revs! The pros basically have two throttle positions on or off! I would like to play with the VHST a bit, just to see, but that is another project! In closing, the Dellorto does a job, that is all, and untill something better and cheaper comes along, well you know! my 2 c

Needs beer money!

Billy, I have been running a mix of 93 pump gas and 100 octane avgas to get the neccary octane to prevent pinging. In the hot summer months I have to reduce the amount of avgas to prevent hard starting. It just does not handle the heat well, almost like a vaporlock!

Billy, I just cannot imagine how someone could run a pilot jet that lean. My '07 did come accross with a #30 installed, normal range for me here 33-36, it was soo weak it would not even lift the front wheel off tickover. Back to the shed after a 100ft test ride! Installed a 35 and it came to life.

You will have to remove the airbox to ajgust top spring preload ring. You must loosen the set screw. The bottom screw increased return damping as you turn it in(right).

Sent you a paypal as I recall, to you r personal. PM me with the address if you will.