copemech

I think the guy who had that bike before me put Viagra in the fuel tank because the thing had a permanant woody! He only rode the thing twice from new and wrenched his knee, could not ride for months! Word has it that same bloke has taken up 4T trials and has continued destroying body parts!

Orange = France Telecom = Cheese Eating Surrender Monkeys. 'nuff said. And he thinks I am an opinionated a***!

I should probably add the fact that it IS a 2.9 and you can only mellow it soo much, and still run properly! My '03 was a POWERHOUSE! Hang on tight! See how it goes for you, there are other tricks, normally not needed! MC

Twit!

I have now been thoroughly glorified and have wires coming out, oh well, you know the rest! Better than a lot I hear! Tks Donald, YDB

The info on the site is great, but to simplify matters and without using a timing guage, just rotate the backing plate 6mm to the left(counter) for good smoothing, half that to mellow just a bit! Your bike probably already has a "tic" mark on the right side of the top web casting edge. Gearing changes are not normally neccessary. Boyesen reeds are normally smoother off the bottom. Carb changes are not normally required if jetted properly. 33-36 on the pilot jet and 118-122 on the main for most. Your mileage may vary! ALWAYS check your air filter and airbox after washing the bike and prior to starting! It is critical! OR just remove the tank and mudguard before a wash, cover or remove the filter and plug the hole with a rag or towel to prevent water entry to airbox! This may be the last time I tell this!

If he has a stock '07 it is the same carb. He may prefer his ole one anyway as the setup he runs is smooth. I would never be worried about calling him as he has a wealth of knowledge and can help you a lot in many ways. Good guy to know! He will take care of you! You may need to buy the beer!

I tend to agree, but I think the shock is the difference more than the swingarm. I am still looking for others feedback on the shock settings they are using! Anyone?

USBETA sells them with the correct setup!

Ok Donald, I may be old and dense, but send it to me so I know what the hell you art talking about!

BBBBIIIITTTTCCCCHHHHH!

Looks like fun area. Where are the pics of Clive, crashes, Clive, girls, and Clive crashing with girls watching?

Huuummmmmm, must be Jerry's bike! God only knows what he has done to it! Just kidding. For one thing, it cannot be very warm in Penn. cause it has been really cold in Texas! It IS still winter you know! The bikes will cool down quickly and may require choke on startup, but usually first kick after thay have run, maybe 5 kicks stone cold in cold weather. Below about 40f you may need to tip the bike over to spill a bit of fuel on first start. Start with the basics! The 36 pilot should be fine if the carb is clean. Ck it again and blow it out with air. Choke jet too and inspect little o-ring around it! About 3 turn out on the fuel screw for starters and adjust from there. Try a new plug, BP5ES is two bucks, set at .020-.023 gap. The Irridium plug is better(add a tenner) BPR5EIX set .023-.025 and has some design advantages for cold starting and low speed running. If the slide has been modded, I just wonder if there may be something going on which is making it difficult to pick up fuel from the pilot jet? Ck your fuel! Premium winter blend pump gas will do, but you really need a bit higher octane to prevent pinging! I use a blend ov avgas 50/50 in the winter. But that is me. Whatever you are using has to atomize well in cooler weather. Phone Jerry! My 2c

Zippy, Had that happen to me with the Hebo pegs1 They will reach in to grab your calf muscle and yank it out to show you what you are made of!

Craig, you need to come to the "training days" thing!

Poor euros have never seen a FORD GT!

In years past, I always found a stock 2.9 to be quite a handful of power and I came to like the 2.5 in '05. The '06 2.9 I had was still too much, although with a little mellowing, worked ok. The '07 2.9 is much smoother to begin with in my subjective opinion, yet I set the timing back 6mm to begin with, more out of habit than anything, huuummm, not bad! Maybe too slow, but not bad at all! Installed the Boyesens, which are smoother yet still very responsive and I have been very pleased with the smooth yet strong power. Mind you I weigh about 80k so I am not as large as some. I am also what might be considered your average clubman rider and do not need to perform 6ft splatters on the bike. Control is the word for me, the better, the better! Power is a non-issue! A good 125 rider can show you that! In ref to the base gaskets. Close inspection reveals that the factory appears to be using the select fit gaskets in the build process now and have reduced the compression or increased the "squish" area along with some head mods on the '07 and my bike seems to have 2 gaskets already. Not quite sure the thickness of the second gasket as manufacturing tolerances are taken into consideration here and they may vary. The maximum number of standard gaskets is 3 and I would probably never use more than 2! As the bike seems to basically already be equipped with 1.5, the difference would be negligable and that experiment deemed unneccessary. I am happy with mine in its current state and only minor changes. I may play with the Kiehin, later though. My 2c.

The '06 was spec'ed at 69.5 kilos and the '07 propaganda states "about 2k lighter". Not sure about oil, air or helium installed! But I think we may soon find out!

What jetting?

The '07 bike has the new swingarm, billett clamps and fat bars, standard carb and most all the other Caby stuff! Oh and I almost forgot, a larger fuel tank which creases a bit when you bolt it down, thanks! The Caby bike vs the standard '06, has better tuned motor, wave rotors, Kiehin carb, different shock! The standard '06 still works well! Better than most of us can ride! The Sherco is the perfect balance of performance and weight vs reliability. Take care of it and it will take care of you! My thoughts, MC

The standard timing mark on the stator plate is normally factory set to the right edge of the top casting web. You can rotate the plate the plate to the left till the tic mark alighns with the top screw, 6-7mm, for pretty much slowing effect which makes things very smooth, halfway just to knock the edge off. Less kickback and better resistance to stalling at low revs. Still lots of power! I am running the dellorto at 35/120 jetting and about 2 3/4 turns out on the fuel screw range. No jetting changes with the Boyesens but I did have to reset the screw a bit. The standard settings for the Kiehin/ Sherco are 45/125, JJH needle in middle position as I recall. Some other mods are neccessary as well. Cheers,

Sorry, the spec is 10-40! Much thicker than ATF! You could blast the steel plates, as you stated, just be careful! Too rough and it will tear up the friction plates! I have seen some folks remove 2 or even 3 springs for a softer clutch in the smaller bikes for the kids. Not sure the 2.9 will handle that, depends upon how much power you apply! I'm sure it would slip if you nailed it! Did you know that the "shortie" levers actually have a greater distance from pivot to the sweet spot on the lever than the longer ones? Resulting in slower clutch action. All personal pref, as you stated. The Boyesen reeds and a slight timing reset smooth the bike just as well as the Kiehin. I traded off with a Caby rep rider last weekend and the opinions were the same, at least on the bottom end. The Kiehin will make power on the top at WOT, but then you need a quicker clutch, like the pro riders! Hope that helps.

Which brings us full circle, back to Billy! Now whar did that dancin' banana go?

The Sherco spec. is 10-30 gear oil, not ATF. Try that first!

A semi is a big truck!