copemech

So how was throttle response right off idle? It blips like a 2-stroke, no delay if that's what you mean... Response time off idle for the CV carb estimated at 50-70ms vs 10-20ms for a 2T! Computer nerds beware! I really liked that it will chug down to NOTHING and still recover with Power! Got me on my butt in a hurry! A 2T will not do that!

Nothing wrong with the Scorpa 250, well built, bulletproof motor, and you can make them purr like a kitten! Or make them very aggressive! Minimal changes can just alter the character of a bike, up to a point! Ian is correct in how the cycle originates, but even he wants the Caby bike! Which is ok, as it is smooth with the standard setup. I still believe most would be better off with the 2.5, or 2.0 but then the ego thing kicks in! Same thing happens with the Beta's and the Gassers! Bottom line, if you buy a HIGH performance bike, EXPECT a kick from it! Good and bad! Fun but Trickey! And yes, the good rider on the 1.25 will still kick your butt!

power steering fluid Now that's a new one!

Must be the Italian team!

It is somewhat normal to have some smoke after a hard run of high enging loads or high rpm as it burns off the excess oil that accumulates in the exhaust after putting around! High octane "race gas" only multiplies the problem as it does not ignite as readily and more fuel residues tend to accumulate. The current recommendations and usage by the folks in the US are: 80:1 mix of high quality full synthetic lube such as Maxima K2 93 octane pump gas(highest available here) runs fine in the later models The bikes run fine, little smoke and little to none (hard) carbon residue buildup in combustion chamber or exhaust(which plugs the baffles). Some of the simi-synthetic lubes may work, it all depends upon the blends, but I can tell you that I have used the Yamalube 2-R (highly acclaimed by Yamaha) in the same ratios and with no problems. I can find no reason to run ratios as high as 50:1 with modern oils, in a trials bike that spends most of the time putting around, it only leads to waste and smoke! It goes to show you that a novice rider could easily go to 90,100:1 ratio with a good oil and have no problems and less mess! And an easy removal ov two bolts will let you take a look to see how much carbon residue is building up in the header pipe, mine is clean! Plugging up your engine and exhaust is just as bad as ruining it from lack of proper lube! M2C

What would be nice would be a modern bike, with its great suspension and brakes but with an engine like a old TY250 in its power delivery, but no-one makes anything like that, so we all buy whats available and change it to suit our needs. ScottT, they call it a SCORPA! With heavy flywheel and slow timing and throttle!

Clive, I have been practicing! Harker told me that Cullins kid was pretty tough, but I think I can take him!

Glenn, 3mm works fine just to "knock the edge off", a difference you can tell, but not too much. If you slow the timing too much, there is also too much unburned HC in the exhaust which tends to overheat and lead to problems!

Zippy, that 2000 model is a popcorn fart compared to the '03, nice smooth bike though. The '06 and '07 are indeed a much smoother bike to start with and you could probably say that MOST ride them stock, yet it is the same bike as the pros ride, so there is a lot of power there and more than a lower class rider can handle in some cases, so small changes can make things more accomodating. I try to keep from making any changes that are not easily reversed! I can tell you someone who does not like slow throttles or stock 290's, and that is my old friend Author Itis! And there are other perks to a reduced ignition timing such as easier starting and lower tickover without stalling. Not everything is about maximum power, it is about control, and yes, the more you can ride, the better off you are! My '05 bike was a 2.5, harder to find in the US, but more folks should buy them, SWEET!

Seems I do know a few tall fellows (big hands), one recently told me he preferred the half waffle grips due to the larger diameter. I think they are Renthal MX/Enduro. One thing I did notice early on with the Fatbars on the new Sherco(with there being no crossbar reference) using the verticle plane of the bar set them too far forward(as they taper) and I had to move them back a bit for comfort. Just a thought! The little "tic" marks seem useless as there is not a ref point. I know that on the standard bars, the Renthals were always a bit wider than the stockers.

Chader, that is no rider, just the weight of the bike! KTMSproket, 10wt will slow things down, but you may find it too harsh on drop offs, just as too light would let them bottom out too easily. Depends upon your body weight. Sounds like they needed a good flush anyway!

As Karen's bike went down the hill, the only thing she was looking at was------well nevermind, you had to be there!

Funny, that it the only part that does not hurt on me, most times! Weight off arms is important! Not many choices in fatbar design, and the Renthals aer lower than stock! I should add that I have heard many state the fatbars seem more rigid, less flex and transfer more impact to the rider! I am unsure if this is the case, but I am yet to see any bent or broken ones, not that it could not be done. Mine HAVE been tested!

driving 200 mph race cars might even keep me awake for more than 5 minutes. Normally just the thought of NASCAR racing makes me yawn. D'jew jus say sumpin bad about NASCAR, boy? I'll be in Tish, while them guys are in Dallas! I'd rather go ride! Don't get near as dirty!

Just remember if you soften things too much, you loose ground clearance! Most the riders I have seen that like them really soft, use it to rebound off the shock snubber and are good at hopping. For us normal folke that need to turn better, this kicks the front wheel out making it push on turns, so setting the rear at 20-30mm static sag was always better for me. Be sure to roll the bars forwards! Stick the allen wrench in and pull the crossbar back untill it just touches the allen, then lock it down. Gives you proper room on the bike to lift the front, makes you use your feet for steering! And if you are going to ride a 2.9, Brains are no replacement for Gonads!

The new Scorps suspension is quite plush as you stated. However there are a couple of tricks for the Sherco. The factory spec for the Sherco fork is 4wt oil. As none seem to make 4wt oil, we normally use Maxima 5wt here. I understand that PJ1 makes a lighter 2.5 wt that you may be able to blend into a lighter viscosity but I have never tried it. I just use 300-310ml on a drain and fill (because you never get all the old oil out) as compared to the 330ml spec(per leg). It makes a difference! I also try to be sure to have good o-rings on the top caps so they do not leak, compress the forks and bleed the air prior to riding, maybe ck them again after warm. On the rear, they changed the delta link in '04 to one that has a higher leverage ratio, much softer but you will need to wind up the spring a bit with the stock shock. I understand the new TRP shock is quite good, as the '07 shock seems to be, and they are adjustable, so you could essentially bring the bike up to an "06 Caby" spec with those items on the rear! Nigel Dabster had a custom shocker for sale, not sure if he still has it but might be worth asking! If you know someone in Spain, I think Paxau sells some stuff, but I have never gotton a response unfortunately! Hope that helps, MC

Heath, did you see the ones i put up from the Fuji?

Always wanted one of those, slightly deeper, so you could try attaching a flyweight off a Beta or gasser!

Don't bite your tounge off Ronnie!

Kieth coming off the drop!

Look up, throttle, clutch/ or was it Just Gas It!

Go Kieth!

They do seem to enjoy some time together!

Up we go! Pat was on the 1.25 too!

Pat right behind him!