lemur

If anybody wants to trash their expensive soft compound radial tubeless competition trials tires after one use, you can throw them my way. Even the worn out tires work good for winter riding after you pump about 600$ worth of carbide grip studs into them 😎

Note that if there is no R in the tire size it's not a radial 🤓 Remember when the Michelin Light came out and they were less money then the X11 version, they are cheaper to produce and have now become the most expensive option available because of supply and demand. The X11 radial is still available and can be had for significantly less money 👍

If it didn't need the ball bearing then they could have made the rod in one piece, if there was no bearing then the ends of the 2 actuator rods would at the very least be rounded and hardened where they contact each other similar to a valve pushrod end. The ball bearing in theory reduces the friction significantly and only needs to spin at half the rate of the 2 rods, it's actually brilliant to have it in there and would serve no purpose to leave it out. How about measuring the straight rod length and have somebody confirm the straight rod part is original 🤓

You need the bearing in there because during operation the T shaped shaft spins relative to the straight shaft, the bearing turns that pressure into point loads in the centre of the 2 shafts, without the bearing between them the shafts will experience considerable more friction. Your clutch is out of engagement by the same diameter as the clutch rod 🤓 add a bearing the same diameter as the clutch rods measure and it should work.

The 4700mF 25V (part# 037.40.022.00.00) capacitor/condenser I made reference to is shown on the homologated version wiring diagram.

Want the scary news, one way for those parts to collide is the result of excess play in the crankshaft bearings. Grab the crank firmly and see if you can detect any play in the crankshaft bearings or in the taper shaft and and inspect the keyway on the armature to eliminate that as being a problem.

Just a few observations and suggestions; 1) your spark plug does not require or use rectified voltage to operate, AC works just fine to produce a spark. 2) that pickup coil needs to be cleaned and the proximity between the pickup and the spinning magnet needs to be as small as possible without ever physically touching. That is likely how you 'fixed' the bike when you removed and reinstalled it. None of those magnet to coil surface interfaces should include rust or metallic debris. 3) the head bolts should provide a solid sparkplug ground. 4) your diagram shows an ignition system with 2 coils, one coil dedicated to spark and the other to 12volt accessories such as LED lights and fan motor. Your photo appear to show a multi phase stator coil 🤔 you might not have the correct wiring diagram or the schematic displays the stator coils in a curious fashion. ... if the bike runs and you want to test the alternator outputs, best is to use an oscilloscope. add: my riding partner crushed a small capacitor that is wired up near the headlight and steering stops crushed it. You might want to check that part assuming his EVO is the same as your EVO add: the black box module almost certainly adjusts spark advance timing and that is likely where the biggest difference is between the various modules. ... timing of the spark is almost the only thing that can be adjusted.

Trunk monkey theft retrieval system 👍

Guessing konrad refers to part 11 and associated bits 👍

For all intent purpose that would be a tiny mechanical fuel pump that activates when the throttle returns to idle position. No such thing is shown on the diagram you attached. & If the bike runs well you really should not be messing with the jetting, but 🤔 if changing the jetting is simply moving the e-clip on the main jet needle I think I would try that.

Too easy, sandpaper the shiny parts off, those are the high spots, eventually the entire pad material will be in contact with steel and you will have full braking again.

Switched the starter button to the left side because for me it makes it much easier to restart without loss of control over the throttle and clutch.

Shorty levers moved way in on the bars, slack adjusted to provide comfortable bend and range for the clutch finger, gives you the most leverage and friction range possible and your lever will never crush your grip fingers 👍 3rd gear pulls from zero to biggest thing I can ride so I ride almost exclusively in 3rd but that really depends on the terrain you ride.

Schematic indicates non regulated to the lights and horn and the regulator is on there for the fan only, the capacitor is on there to make the fan motor work better. All that runs off the lighting or accessory coil which is independent of the ignition coil.

CV carburetor running lean, just like CV carbs were designed to do. You might try raising the needle if the problem happens at greater throttle opening. What does the spark plug look like? & does it smoke at the exhaust &/or is the engine full of carbon ?

Horns draw a considerable amount of power, even more when they get old and rusty or full of water. ~30 watts is typical, the 4RT has a significant large alternator on board to accommodate the fuel pump and fan, the alternator windings are oil cooled which works brilliantly if you should be stressing the limits. Conserving power consumption from other accessories such as the high beam and horn leaves that power for your little heat strips. I would be way more concerned about cooking the stator by running heaters on my TRS. I don't winter ride the lakes much I ride the same back woods trails we ride the rest of the year, way more fun . Competition soft compound tires can't withstand much below single digit minus centigrade temperatures and a heated garage with the riding area right outside my door makes it possible, caution that at minus 22C riding the knobs will peal right off your rear tire. Stored in extreme cold trials tires crack the sidewalls if you leave the bike sitting on them at low pressure. When you are running 1740 GripStuds in subzero temps on ice and snow it is advisable to run higher then normal low tire pressures so that the sidewalls don't crack so badly, 👍 studded trials tires are awesome fun and extend the riding season by months here. Since running studded tires I even look forward to winter riding 😎

One problem you might encounter with the 4RT in winter is sub-zero engine starting as I did, if your engine oil gets too cold it will make cold starting difficult to impossible. I even tested 0W winter grade engine oil but had no success with that. Be ready to build a small fire under your bike to sub-zero cold start it.

Better control over the operating temperature sounds like a very good idea, I have the heated grips on a little snowmobile and find the heat too intense to operate continuously and need to toggle the heaters on and off to reduce the intensity to a tolerable rate. When I winter ride my trials bike it is the clutch lever finger that freezes first and has me pausing regularly to warm my fingers on the engine, the grip heaters do little to address that. Hotshots chemical heat packs inserted into the back of your regular riding gloves work as an alternative to the grip heaters, but similarly do little to warm the lever fingers. I have heard of local riders using the electric heaters on the control levers instead of the grips, but have not personally attempted that yet.

Roughly the same power as your horn. 🤓 Don't use the horn at the same time as your heated grips and there should be no issue.

Why don't you just re-anodize the original aluminum rims 🤔 there are lots of companies that specialize in aluminum anodizing.

I have a 2021 and a 2023 the replacement spring was difficult to install and broke within a very short time, then I went for the extension type spring as a more reliable alternative and I can source them at a hardware store, so I figure why not just set it up for that type of spring. If there is no spring the bike does not roll backwards and the tensioner arm binds up.

If we want to get all scientific there a 4 types of stainless steel and it is the chromium content that largely alters the magnetic attraction of the steel and the possibility of nickel added which has a grain that does not make a good magnet, all steel contains iron. The problem with the replacement spring in question is, they bent it in the wrong place.

Yep, I bought one of those too, it's not bent correctly, ended up sourcing a package of regular assorted coil springs from a hardware store and improvising something that works as good or better to the original.

No spark happens at the pickup coil, it's just a coil that briefly produces a small electric charge that in all reasonable logic goes to a little black box ignition control module just like a regular motorcycle, that in turn sends an amplified charge to the secondary coil producing the spark at the spark plug. I'll bet everything to do with the fuel injection is just like any other electric pump fuel injection system and everything to do with the modern 2-stroke motor making a spark at the spark plug is just like every other modern 2-stroke motorcycle that makes a spark at the spark plug. ... You do have 2 small black boxes, one is going to be dedicated to the Fi and one is going to be the ignition, odds are nobody short of the original manufacturer knows what is inside them which might be Hitachi or some such company.

I use an oscilloscope to test the AC outputs, nothing beats that, your pickup coil should ohm meter test easy and be adjusted (if possible) for the closest proximity to the magnets to optimize performance, pickup is simply a field coil that initiates the spark and provides timing for the fuel injection.