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for about

even if you can get a signal on the middle of the moors, how are you going to work out how far you have gone on a circular route ??? I think I'll leave the Iphone somewhere safe and take my changes with the

not sure who jeff bungay is... but i'll photoshop an advert up... this time next year wayne we will be millionaires..

Hi Wayne It will only work at all with the ferrite, and only then if mounted far enough away. I "borrowed"a clip on type ferrite from the video, I'll pick up a replacement from Maplins in leeds this week some time I wonder if there is a market for "fiddle" speedo ? Sensor pick up mounted in a dummy drive box, the wires fed through an RF sheilded dummy cable, to a D shaped housing to accept an off the shelf speedo head, Should be able to get Miller to knock em out for

thanks wayne The fix seems to be to use the ferric ring (

thanks wayne I'll give that a go..... if not i will just have to rely on the fact that valves start to bounce at around 35 mph.. I was more concerned about the mileage.. It's tricky to work out MPG and therefore if and when to refill on road trials.. I usually only put in 3 or 4 pints for a venue trial and have the tap on reserve all the time.

hi mavric, is that a picture of your cub on your profile page... looks quite trick to me................ I have steel petrol and oil tanks, original hubs, yokes, stantions and sliders, frame and swinging arm... i agree a cable operated speedo would be good, but i am only trying to make my bike a bit more road legal for scotland and the Northern bike rounds,....

in advance of Scotland i have just fitted a bicycle digital speedo, having heard that the ignition plays havoc with the wireless types, i fitted a wired one. all works well if freewheeling with a dead engine, but once the engine is running the speedo displays random numbers.. i guess the PVL coil is causing the problem... any one have a solution????

I am not familiar with greeves shocks... but general engineering good pratice would suggest, ( assuming every thing is the right size) :- Make sure there is a good lead (chamfer) on the hole and maybe even consider grinding a small chamfer onn the leading edge of the bush. Lubricate well with soapy water ( the soap will wash away over time - oil can attack rubber especially if it is the wrong grade (epdm)) and squeeze together in your vice. The rubber may spring back a little when you undo the vice so you may need to use a couple of appropriately sized sockets to position the bush correctly.

not a beeza expert.. but the bearing comes into play when the clutch is pulled in with the engine running... so never come under load, a single row bearing will always have "play". not sure about the thrust washer tho.

another dilema now, my supply of leaded petrol has dried up. I tried some unleaded on sunday but... the front wheel washes out on tight turns.. i am guessing unleaded is lighter, so messing up my weight distribution.. the engine pinks under load.. i happen to have a roll of lead flashing that i bought when i did the roof on the shed... i was thinking if a cut some pieces about 1 inche square and dropped them into the tank, that would solve the weight distrubution problem, but would the petrol dissolve the lead ??????

dont know anything about yamaha's... but just a thought as you have a KPH speedo.. is the an unofficial import ? some of the grey import 400's had limiters built in the speedo

you guys aren't taking this seriously are you? even if i had a compressor that would reach 500 psi, and the tyre carcass and rim could stand that pressure, all i would gain would be 2 " of ground clearance and mess up my stearing geometry and loss all traction. Blimey,call yourself experts, Ps anyone got a tina scooter (or daf varimatic) for sale?

Along with all the other mods, I now reckon I might need to raise the gearing a little. I currently have a 60 tooth rear sprocket. I was thinking 56 might be better? As the sprocket is aluminium I was thinking if I got the dremmel in and ground one tooth off every 90 degrees that will do the trick ? The down side is that if i need to go even higher i will have to grind off 4 more teeth (to keep everything balanced like)which might be too much , so would it be be better to start by grinding off one tooth every 120 degrees and then if i need too I could remove another 3 ?

The problem is that the technique is like soldering. If you are only doing a small horizontal job it is OK, But if you are doing something like a silencer you need a lot of heat (aluminium is a great conductor) a disposible cannister type blow lamp is too small. If you are going all the way around, when you rotate the silencer the stuff you have just done will drip off the bottom while you do the top. I would only suggest giving it a go if you can get the joint horizontal, and get all around it in one go.

Had the same problem on my cub, had to have the air screw out 2 turns further than the best idle setting to get rid of the off idle stutter. I drilled out the jet using the mini drill set below.. http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/DRILL_SETS.html I took the jet out to 0.4 and then 0.45, now ticks over with the screw 2.5 half turns out and no stutter.. fixed for less than a fiver and 1/2 an hours work.

don't worry running a cub on the road with trials gearing will soon have all your teeth falling out.. seriously tho, I would go for 52 on the rear, .. that would raise the gearing by about 20%, still lower than a road cub (especially if you have a small engine sprocket), but giving you a first gear close to where 2nd is now (assuming you have a std box)

looks like an ideal basis for a project.. you going to put a triumph engine in there ?????

The northern lads are having some sucess with 350 or 400's. The trick for grip seems to be the frame.The best seems to be an Enfield frame, (checkout the pics of Dave Emmott on the yorkshire classic website), or Dave Varley heavily modifies the Triumph frame, dcclassicmotorcyces.co.uk

cheers Pat, I'll give that a go, I put some automatic transmission fliud in, but it doesn't seem to work It will only change gear if I wobble that lever that sticks out of the side of the engine up and down...

Hey Pat, Hope you are not giving away any trade secrets here... would Hailwood's comeback have been so glorious without your tuning tips ?? I bet it works wonders on desmo valves and bevel gears.. Don't worry your secrets safe with me.. Just off to put a drop of windowlean in my oil tank to help with the running in process.

its a grand lad called Odgie, rides his sunbeam tigress scooter engined BSA in the Red Rose and Yorkshire Classic rounds when he is not drag racing Yank cars.. A true modern day "character"

Thanks to those that are taking this seriously, (this a 3k serco motor), I think you are right that I didnt think it through properly. when I took the plug out the end was coated with glass, hence the poor running? Peeping through the plug hole I can see the top of the piston is also coated. So, it seems an added bonus or two. Higher compression and a thermal insulator on the piston. I am now thinking I need even more ignition advance. The only downside I can think of is the fragility of glass, don't want to undo my good work bouncing off a rock step. I beleive that glass is toughned by rapid cooling, so I was thinking of firing the bike up, killing the motor, whipping the plug out and then sticking the garden hose in the plug hole. Any one got any experience of this...

entered a national event in 4 weeks time but last time out my bike was pinking a bit.Reading up on the internet it seems like one of the causes could be build up of carbon. I also read about a tuner in the states that gas flows heads using a sandblaster. So i thought i could kill two birds with one stone (epecially as it is so tricky to get the push rods back in). This afternoon I took the air filter out and the silencer off, fired the bike up, held it at about 3000 rpm and throw hand fulls of sand into the airbox. most of the sand seems to have come out so I put it all back together again. Problem is now that it runs really rough. I reckon it so well gas flowed I need to adjust the carb and timing to suit. I was thinking about going up 20 on the main jet and advancing the ignition by about 5 degrees Does this seem about right ? don't want to risk damaging my freshly tuned motor.

be a bit careful if you go for the easy out option bearing in mind that you have already sheared a steel bolt, the thread must have siezed pretty tight. If you break the easy out you will have to have that spark eroded out. | would soak with penetrating oil over night (or longer), apply some heat with your blow lamp then drill the hole for the easy out. If it is a through hole the drilling operation may drive the rest of the screw out. If not try the easy out. If that feels too tight ,, try increasing the drill size to the tapping drill size (you need to be pretty central!!!), if you try tapping with the first tap the old bolt usually collapses and can be withdrawn on the tap.. Good luck..