alan

I got mine from trials bits www.trialsbits.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=94_215_260&products_id=927 , not the best quality but seem strong enough so far (2 years and 50 ish trials), good value for money, or there is always central wheel company. www.central-wheel.co.uk

unless you are going to move the engine over to the left by about 30 mm you really do not need to widen the left leg.

last time i saw it, it was heading towards

there are a few things to consider if you space the sproket on the hub, Firstly, the sprocket will rub on the lip on the brake plate.. you can reduce the size of the lip.. but that will reduce it's stifness Secondly, the spocket is a good fit on the spigot on the hub, if you space the sprocket off the hub all the load is taken through the bolts. When I bought my bike the sprocket was mounted on spacer washers, as a result the cast lugs on the hub had cracked. With careful measuring, in my experience.. you should be able to leave the engine in its origional position (avoiding problems with the exhaust and oil pipe manifolds), no sprocket spacer, build the wheel off to the right to provide chain to tyre clearance widen the swinging arm on the right only.

There is usually only 1 drain hole, tapped 3/16 BSF if i remember correctly. The alternator wire hole (usually used for the PVL) comes through the back of the casing, behind the barrel and on on top of the gearbox. You need some oil in there to lube the chain and the clutch bearing if nothing else. I have heard of people removing the oil seal behind the engine sproket and then drilling holes from the chain case back into the crank case about 1" up from the bottom of the chain case. The idea is that engine oil contantly tops up the chain case, excess oil then drains back to the crankcase and is scavenged by the pump.

is it me ???, am i missing some thing here? you can't kick start a cub in gear. The kick start engages on the main shaft and turns the engine over via the clutch. if the bike is in gear the gearbox sproket will rotate and the bike will move forward. Even If you pull the clutch the sprocket will still rotate, the gears are meshed in the box taking the drive from the kick start via the main shaft to the final drive sleeve gear and sproket. Pulling the clutch just seperates the gearbox from the engine. in short... if you stall in a section, you have to find neutral before you re-start. As for the clutch.. they are notoriously fragile especially if handling increased power and low gears. It is common to run with only 100ml of oil (ATF) in the primary chain case to aviod over wetting the plates.

many thanks fellows, Seems sensible advice, not been a BSA expert i was not sure if this was a hidden gem.. I have been bitten once by buying a supposedly sorted bike only to discover it was a lash up. I guess I am looking for either a basket case or some thing with a proven history. Many thanks

Hi, Calling all BSA experts, thinking about building another pre 65 trials bike, would the C15C make a good starting point? Seems to have been designed as a scrambler,(looks like a stronger frame than the road bikes) so i guess had higher compression and a bigger cam ?

try the yorkshire classic web site, there are pictures of members and machines in the gallery. You can zoom into the pics, may be of some help

i think its a case of you dont get what you dont pay for. I had the misfortune to buy a China built quad for my lad. The chain wore out after a couple of outings and was actually made up of 4 short peices with 4 split links. The "paint" fell off the frame after a few months, whilst rectifying that I spotted that most of the joints were at best tack welded. Whilst re-welding the frame it came to light that the tubes was little better than conduit. a few months later he had managed to wear a hole in the clutch cover with his muddy boots......... The electics were a night mare.. No spares back up, no re-sale value... it would have been cheaper to buy a Suzuki.

If you intend to compete check out the machine regs for the clubs you intend to ride with and have a chatwith the machine examiner. Most will accept fiddle forks (more modern forks hidden inside period forks sliders), some will accept billet yokes (the easy way to hold more modern 35mm stantions), otherwise you are into modifying the yokes too.. so.. If you are happy to run around the lower order of the clubman's routes..standard ish BSA forks will do if you are looking to be more competitive, then you need to be spending

I am struggling to find the time needed to maintain my cub, i am thinking of getting either a TLR200 or better still a 250 instead. Any tips recommendations on what to look for would be greatly appreciated.

The shop still there, mostly modern stuff now, but i think they still dabble a little bit in old brit stuff inclluding wheel building? C Wylde & Son Ltd Aire Place Mills, 143, Kirkstall Rd, Leeds, West Yorkshire LS3 1JL Tel: 0113 246 8888

According to the local plod, the nose weight is only a manufacturer's recommendation. The only thing the the traffic cops would be interested in is the axle weight. So my guess is unless you are unlucky enough to be escorted to the weigh bridge with 3 fat birds in the back of the van as well as the bike on the back, you will be OK.

considering moving up from twin shocks, the local dealer has a little used 2007 300 raga for

i bought a rear Vee rubber between Xmas and New year as i couldn't get anything else. The side wall seems very stiff, even with 2 psi i could not get a big foot print. Off out to the shed now to fit an IRC, any one want to bid on a nearly new vee rubber??

according to the tiger cub bible,with a standard cam, tappet clearance should be 10 thou for both inlet and exhaust. The only change is with the R cam when clearances are 2 and 4 thou respectively.

Time to get your cheque book out i am afraid. The triumph forks are too short and have insuffient travel and damping. it seems to be generaly accepted that more modern forks can be used so long as outwardly they look some thing like pre-65. you could have the bultaco sliders machined down to fit inside some bored out norton sliders, then all you have to do is machine the existing triumph yokes to accept the bultaco stantions, or make some new billet yokes. (bultaco yokes are frowned upon). A job for the experts, (see a previous post for the pit falls).

I had the very same problem develop with a new dellorto, 1/2 way through a trial, i could not get the engine to rev past 1/2 throttle. I messed around with carb for ages, then replaced the PVL at great expense to no avail. As a last resort I fitted the carb of my old TL125... Instant cure! I cannot find any obvious problem with the dellorto...... any suggestions welcome...... it would be nice to think I could use it again some day.

i always tighten things up until the bolt breaks or the thread strips (which ever happens first) then undo it 1/2 a turn. Never fails!

it is generally recommended that chains and sprockets are replaced together. The reason is that the sprockets wear and the chain stretches, just changing one or the other will accelerate the wear of the new item. That said, drenching the chain in mud every weekend is less than ideal too. I buy cheap non o ring chain from the local engineers suppliers and change it every ten trials or so. Check for wear on the chain by trying to lift a link off the back of the rear sprocket, if it moves more than a few millimeter the chain is on its way out. check sprockets by looking for hooked/worn teeth. You want to change them before the chain start to jump teeth.

The stuff that is doing the sticking is a brand new compound not yet released for commercial sale, but if i cover up the edges that you can see with some old hermatite, I reckon that should keep every one happy!!

The stuff that is doing the sticking is a brand new compound not yet released for commercial sale, but if i cover up the edges that you can see with some old hermatite, I reckon that should keep every one happy!!

I have managed to stick tiger cub outer engine cases onto my Honda TLR 250 with silicone, does it now qualify as pre 65 ? I will of course fit fork gaiters for that true period appearance.

2 dollar's ???? do you think i am made of money??? I have had good sucess using the side stand on one of my other bikes. simply place the wheel on a a sheet of ply to protect the rim, wheel the second bike into position with the side stand down. Put the end of the stand on the tire close to the rim then lean the bike over until the bead breaks. I have found this to be very easy to control, but for real difficult one's you could always use a harley or similar.