alan

Clearly you don't understand the term offset in relation to wheel building. What Duncan was suggesting was that you move the rim relative to the hub.The centreline of the rear rim will be slightly off the centreline of the bike but will track parallel to the front wheel. What you seem to inferring is that you misalign the rear wheel spindle so that it is no longer at right angles to the bike centre line. That is not what was suggested..

Why would the rear tyre be skidding ? I know reliant robin's had many problems but although the rear wheels were a couple of foot out of line with the front, rear wheel skidding was not an issue....

we are making compromises here, the fact is the cub sprocket is not far enough off the engine centre line to allow everything to be in the "correct" place an run a 4 inch rear tyre. Duncan's method is a simple solution, do you believe that triumph's frame alignment tolerances were better than 3 mm? moden superbikes are not much better, i really don't think a 3 mm offset when riding around at 3 mph with 5 psi in the rear tyre is a big deal.

many thanks steve

who was selling the splined brake cams and levers ?

Might be a bit better if the forks were in the right way round.. just a thought.

i used a wheel spindle.

Hi Charlie, i am not trying to defend the price, but i think your price index is out when looking at bike prices.. a "new" enfeild manufactured in India is up to £5,800 on the road, so i would guess an areil would be around the £6K mark ? A low volume hand assembled competition machine using the best available parts is not goinging to be cheap.. The real question is why would any one want to pay that sort of money.. looking at the Yorkshire classic championship results, very few riders seem to be interested in the competitive element of the sport. Not many riders turn out for enough events to win the championship, and those that do, often ride different bikes in different classes. It seems to me that pre 65 is more of a hobby, an engineering challenge through the week to get something to ride on Sunday, come Sunday its a chance to have the craic with a few like minded individuals while getting a bit muddy.. One of the Yorkshire members has just put a plain bush engined cub together for less than £450.. it is not the prettiest bike, but he is not last in the results and he is enjoying riding the thing, if some one wants to throw a load of money at something to join in the fun good luck to them, at least then when i need a new roller big end or whatever there just maybe someone around to sell me one.

anything can be made to fit.. It depends where you intend to ride and at what level Some clubs local to you are quite happy for you to have non british forks, yokes and wheels, other clubs will put you in the specials (non competive) class if your forks "appear" to be of non British period manufacture. to get a pair of bulto or ossa forks modified to appear legal, with assosiated yokes and wheel spindle mods will be around £300 on top of the price of the forks if you can find a decent pair. and yes it is usual to cut the seat mount off.

Hi Marty the supply side of the pump is fed from the oil tank, as the plunger moves down the oil is forced out thro a non return valve (a spring loaded ball built into the bottom of the pump. As the plunger returns the ball is forced against a seat machined in the pump body to stop the pump sucking back up the oil that is has just pumped out. If the ball doesn't seat properly the oil from the tank can drain into the sump past the ball when the bike is stood (especially if the plunger is at the top of its stroke) The fix on a old pump is to tap the ball with a punch onto the seat to get it to seal again.. i would be suprised if this was the cause of your problem as it is a new pump and i assume it was happening before you changed the pump. You would get the same problem if the pump body was not sealing on the gasket to the engine. is the pump mounting face flat especially around the studs?

one of the "bonus" benefits of moving the footrests back and down is that the kick start now clears my wider footrests.

a few drops of brasso down the plug hole, take the bike for a push in gear with the plug out... i didn't build TT winning engines without knowledge like that... no seriously i didnt build tt winning engines.. best of luck but i don't think that a hepolite oil control ring can handle the amount of oil a morgo pump throws around. With the barrel and piston off spin the crank around using the rod and see how much oil is picked up on the fly wheels, image how much oil is thrown up the bore at 2 - 3000 rpm.. As Pat will testify the C15 was "a new and improved cub", the C15 has a "scraper" to remove oil from the rim of the flywheels to reduce this problem.

I think we are talking about the outer case, the inner case where the pump is is full of oil any way. You need a bolt in the end of the cam or the engine will breath into what was the points housing. there is a hole in the cam journal that lines up with a hole in bush to relief the pressure in the crank case as the piston descends. The hole in the bush breathes into the outer case, and is timed as the holes only align once every cam rev. if you hsve a dizzy plug breather, this is a much bigger hole and therefore easier route for the engine to breath through, the cam bush breather becomes redundant. it is normal to fit a blind bush and plug the drain, this stops any water getting into the engine. if you go to extremes you can then remove the outer cover completely. (check the pictures on the armac website.)

How long does the engine need to run before it stops smoking? Mine has run for about 5 minutes which I thought would be enough to clear any assembly oil but it still smokes! The barrel had a good bore (hone marks still evident) and I fitted a new piston and rings during the rebuild. Don't panic yet, triumph used to run them in on a rolling road for about 30 minutes. However in my experience the triumph/Hepolite oil control rings struggle to cope with the amount of oil that a slider block oil pump throws around (let alone the morgo one). There are quite a few using japenese oil control rings to over come this problem Is there meant to be a small quantity of oil seeping into the RH (Side point side) case? There is a timed breather through the cam bush into this casing, the oil is meant to return to the sump via the drain hole. If you have the dizzy plug breather it is usual to block of the cam bush breather (rotate the bush to misalign the holes or fit a new blind bush) and plug the drain hole. (ps not a practice i entirely agree with, but it works for many others) Do the rocker cover feed pipes normally have copper or fibre washers. For some reason I am finding it hard to get them to seal. I modified the pipe to fit my top tube oil tank and have just fitted 'dowty' washers to the outside to see if that helps. Are the faces of the banjos in good nick? Copper washers are the norm, the manufacturing process work hardens the washers, heat them to cherry red and drop in a bucket of cold water to soften them.

Blimey i wish i knew the definitive answer to that.. There is a school of thought that says you should run in on cheap oil to help the rings bed in quicker.. but all modern cars use good quality oil which can be in for up to 20,000 miles.. they dont seem to come to any harm. My experience is that with synthetic oil, even with a worn out pump the engine did not come to any harm.. But with a new pump and a roller big end there would be ample pressure and flow using a mineral oil, A trials engine is not worked that hard unless you are doing road work on a long distance trial. Oil change frequency is probabley more critical especially with no filtration, so in my humble opinion buy cheap and change it often or if you can afford buy expensive and change it often.

The pipe on the outside of the manifold is the supply to the engine. The inner pipe is the return to tank. The top tube oil tanks usually do not have any kind of strainer or filter in them. Any debris is free to continually circulate through both sides of the pump,the mains and big end unhindered. Filtering the return means that any debris only passes through the scavenge side of the oil pump once (there should be a strainer on the end of the scavenge pipe up pipe in the sump to stop any really big bits) The filter does not offer much resistance to the flow (unless it is blocked and then the pressure by-pass opens in the filter).Any increase in pressure will be between the pump and the filter. The take off for the rockers is after the filter so will be uneffected. Most of the debris will be created straight after a rebuild as the rings bed in to the new bore.. if you are going to fit a filter.. fit it sooner rather than later.

There is a fair bit of "flex" in the fork/yoke assembley. slacken the bottom yoke pinch bolts and mud guard brackets if you have any, bounce the forks up and down a few times to align every thing, if it doesnt look straight put the wheel again a wall and twist the bars until it looks ok , tighten the bottom yoke then the mud guard, if its still not right some thing may be bent

there are two issues here 1) are you breaking the law? the nose weight is a manufacturers recommendation, the plod would only be interest in axle weight - so in most cases carrying a trials bike is not as bad as having two fat birds in the back of your car. 2) Is it safe? If your bike and rack were to fall off, you would almost certaintly be accussed of "unsafe load" regardless of the manufacturers recommendations If you lost control due to weight on the back which does effect braking, steering and handling i am fairly sure you would be viewed as negligent for exceeding manufacturers recommendations. I have a fairly big car, I exceed the nose weight slightly, but feel confident I am legal, but i drive fairly steadily especially in the wet.

lets not forget Russel Rooksby's ride.. despite a "debateable" 5 on the pipeline, he was riding a borrowed bike... built in a shed by an engineer and definately not a cheque book special.. Picture 3rd in from Right on the 6th row down..........http://www.yorksclassictrials.co.uk/#/members/4547091900

The curvature of the univesal guards is different to the original honda, you can pull them into shape with the mudguard bracket, but I applied a little heat from a hot air gun to get mine to sit right.

although there are no great prizes at stake, in any form of competition people will try to gain a competitive advantage. In the case of pre 65 trails it seems that many years ago general machine rules were laid down in good faith, but over the years the ingenuity of the riders to "develop" the machines has surpassed whatever could have been imagined back in the day. The edges of the envelope have been pushed and pushed, blind eyes have been turned and obvious infringements have now become acceptable. Riders and officials have a collective responsibility to determine where this ends up. Officials can try to write the extremely comprehensive rules and then try to police them, but riders have to stop looking for the loop holes and exploiting them (turning down exposed parts of the stanchions, having two inche of stanchion above the yoke). Obviously the horse has well and truely bolted, people are not going to "un-develop" their machines, but there needs to be some guidelines to try to allow every one to compete on a level playing feild. As i see it there now needs to be at least 3 classes, Genuine (ish) pre 65 - limited suspension travel, no billet parts "super" pre 65 - fiddle forks,"replica" billet parts etc British twin shock- more modern forks and wheels allowed I feel for the organisers in Scotland who get caught up in this every year. As far as i can see they have not changed any rules since they issued the entry pack. Clearly there needs to be a set of rules accepted and enforced by all clubs and abided to by all riders.

try here http://www.trialspartsusa.com/images/For-bike/HI8065.jpg

The spindles can be in any angular position, The axial location is set by the shoulder on the feed end of the spindles, so as long as the feed hole is in the bango and the o ring on the other end is in the head casting the job is a good un, there should be a plain washer either side of the thackery washer, and 1 between the end of the rocker and the head. these act as simple thrust bearings, Jack the lad makes bushes to replace the thackery washer set up to reduce a bit of the friction. the tappet clearance are 2 thou inlet 4 thou exhaust Tighten the head nuts up until they strip, then back off 1/2 a turn.... You will struggle to get a spanner on the nuts.. let alone a torque wrench.. jack makes blind nuts (the open nuts fill with water and seize onto the stud) from 13mm AF stainless. you can buy a cheap 13mm ring spanner anywhere, grind the spanner so you can get a decent swing on the nuts without breaking any fins.

you could be on to some thing there...... kinetic energy recovery system........ could be that you have a cable operated bicycle dymano that you drop onto the tyre when going down hill, that would charge the battery and considerably increase the braking performance of a C10. Result..... hope you took out the patent before posting in the public domain..

if it is the bike i think it is......... the end of the crank has been cut off..... other cranks are available though