jmutiger

I went with the highest coverage one from h and d racing. I haven't gotten the bike or skid plate yet to comment on fit and finish. But at least I'll have everything soon enough. Thanks guys, Jon

Hi guys, I was wondering if someone can confirm which power gets to the headlight plug on the 300rr? I'll be using the bike at night a fair amount and need it to power some kind of light that will allow me to see. Once I know for certain the power I can figure out my options. Thanks!

Hi everyone, I'm a bit of a thrasher, and I'd like to get a HD skid plate before even scratching up the stocker. Which HD option out there is the most user friendly for keeping the skid plate in place when doing oil changes, yet still offers good coverage? Thanks! Jon

I thought you'd run leaner jetting if you ride higher.. Your suggesting richer jetting at altitude which doesn't seem normal to me.

Hi guys, I was wondering what others with the same bike have done jetting wise to clean up the power delivery? I ride between 500ft - 5000, probably mostly around 2500ft. But I'll tune as needed just want to know if there is a hot setup I should know about before starting the annoying procedure of airbox removal.

That is pretty nasty! Did they change the offset on the factory editions??

Well, I'm out riding right now and enjoying the awesome trails of British Columbia. So far the bike is much more lively, and it is taking some getting used to the extra response. I don't ride competitively, just play ride in the backcountry.

Well, I finally got all of my personal touches on my Factory edition ST300. Here's a list of what I've done.. I'll report back after riding tomorrow. I had a 15 ST300 before this, so I have a baseline to compare to. So far, in the one test ride I can say it's much more confidence inspiring, and more natural feeling so far. Changes from new include: - bleed brakes with Maxima DOT4 racing fluid - Zeta levers - Acerbis handguards (I'm one of those guys) - stiffened up the compression on the front forks and increase the bottom out resistance setting - 2 turns more preload on the rear to speed up the steering - 2 clicks in on the rear Ohlins to help with the big hits - D.I.D. VT2 x-ring chain - Riveted on - 43T rear sprocket - S3 10mm back steel pegs - Full plastic-carbon look protective crap (This stuff is really NOT adding to the look of the bike at all), I'd do the frame guards, and full length fork guards only next time - slightly thicker and colour co-ordinated ODI grips, which actually feel really nice, they aren't thick, just thicker. - CSP high volume water pump - Completely cleaned up each clutch plate, and this really makes the clutch feel great.. I'm happy I did that! No pics just yet.. Must wait for sunshine and a great backdrop! Thanks to International Motorsports, in Langley, BC for helping me out with getting my hands on this beauty! Jon

I've got a fix for leaking IRC's! You've got to use bead glue, which is available from automotive tire places and it works. I love the grip of the IRC over either Michelin tire to be honest.

Problem adverted! The reason is I sell Wiseco, and can get a smoking deal on them, I can't do the same for a stock piston. Turns out the stock piston was absolutely mint, even after all of the time it's had. These engines really are bullet proof. The noise I heard turned out to be the silencer core was rattling around, and I was concerned that it was a bad top end. Nope, just needed to re-pack. Bloody awkward to repack a silencer that isn't the same shape top and bottom, but the job is done. ps. If you remove your shock on your SY, the rear brake line is very fragile and will be broken by the swingarm if your not careful. Don't ask. Jon

So nobody here has yet to attempt to replace a Scorpa piston with a Wiseco? You gotta be kidding me. Ok, what YZ year piston is likely the same as what's in my SY? Thanks, Jon

It's a fairly easy fix. The shaft goes straight through the case, and can be removed by taking off the right side over (the large right side cover). You most likely will have to take the clutch out, then pull the shaft out. I'd get some new seals for it on the shifter side, and you should be good to go. The worst part will be taking the skid plate off and re-installing it. I think it'll have to come off to get the right side cover off. Jon

I've got a 2002 SY250 Long Ride. Does anyone know what part number Wiseco fits this beast? Also, does anyone know if any other brand's rad cap fits this rad? My overflow hose broke, and I'm hoping to find one that's a little slimmer than this one. Jon

A big negative for me would be the replacement part cost. That one aspect alone will keep me from buying another Scorpa. After riding a few other bikes, I really liked the Beta the best. My riding is much like the FMOH, but it's in the trees out of the heat. Before you go and buy a bike, call up where you might need to get parts from and price out the following between 2 brands: Sprockets (Try finding a 10T Yamaha sprocket outside of Scorpa!!) Cooling Fan thermoswitch Chain Guide block I went with the scorpa because I got a long ride out of the US for cheap. I love riding it, and for non-trials events it's amazing. But I was a better rider on the Beta. The Scorpa does have much more electrical output. I'm driving 2 35W halogens and I can easily ride at night. The other brands do not make enough power to get your way out of the woods after dark. Jon

Chances are you re-installed a Magnetic Drain Plug, and forgot to put a washer, or it was just too long. It's probably rammed into the shift drum. I did this on my 2002 YZ250, which I'll assume has a very simelar engine layout. Just get it out, and see if it shifts. If it does, make sure next time that your stock drain plug is longer than any magnetic one you choose, if you choose to go with Magnetic. Good luck, and hopefully you didn't bend anything! Jon

I would check the air filter, it's under the lowest point of the "seat" and really is a effective trap for dirt mud and grime in the water you might have went through. You could have also got it all wet, and it's just not able to pass much air. Other than that, I can't think of anything likely. Jon

Okay, lets imagine I'm walking into your shop now. Do you happen to have any SY250 Racing flywheels laying around? I'll talk to Don next time I go in there, for sure.. But I'm just asking the general world if anyone has a flywheel for sale, which might expand my search considerably from one guy essentially. Jon

Do you have the timing spec for this "better" spec? Thanks, Jon

This is less of a serious topic, but more of a pipe dream. Has anyone put a more current YZ250 motor with power-valve into a SY250? The new YZ Motors would be great in a trials bike, and the new Carbs are amazing.. As are the power valves. I can only imagine how much fun I'd have on a SY250 long ride with some serious snap to it. Oh, with that said, does anyone have a SY250 Racing Flywheel they'd like to sell, or swap for my Long Ride flywheel? Thanks, Jon

Try pumping them like 10 times, they should still be okay. If not, your going to have to flush and bleed the system. But I doubt you'll have to do that. Jon

I just thought I'd add some new info. I really love riding this bike, it's allows me to ride the way I know I can. Anyways, if Scorpa reads this, pleaes keep the Long Ride available, it's a great trail bike! Jon

Another little thing you can do is glue something to your frame, and tie a zip-ty to the breather line. Then if it pops off your cap, at least you still have it. Jon

Arnoux, jetting is related to throttle position, not RPM. It is possible to ride at high RPM with a small throttle opening. That's the scenario I'm describing. I'll check out the timing one day when I have a chance. Hopefully I'm not taking little pieces of my piston and cylinder away while I delay. Jon

I've got a full on Long Ride, from what I can tell the jetting is stock, but I haven't checked the nozzles. I'm at sea-level to 3000ft primarily. I don't want to run too lean. Right now the bike runs fairly crisply, but the off throttle roll-on condition has me thinking I'm too lean on the pilot/slow speed circuit (Or just the timing is way too close to TDC). Got any good jetting recommendations? Jon

Is it just me, or does it seem silly to have to run race gas in a trials bike?? I mean it doesn't have that high of a compression. It's gotta be the timing, right? So.. Has anyone come up with a spec that the bike still starts fine at? Thanks, Jon