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jmutiger

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Everything posted by jmutiger

  1. If you are like me, you find the weak links on bikes pretty quick. To me our 4rt footpeg pin set up leaves some room for improvement. If your in the USA or Canada and want to setup your bike like this contact me and I'll help you out. These are aircraft grade AN bolts and there is no threads where there shouldn't be, like under the hanger or footpeg. See pics for what I'm talking about. This is a 300rr with CSP hangers but the bolts are available in any size pretty much.
  2. Hey guys, I work at at Honda dealership and here in Canada there is a very limited amount of aftermarket brake pads available for my 2017 300rr. Any feedback from possible options? The front is a small amount of bikes that share the caliper, so there simply is zero aftermarket options avail here in Canada through the major suppliers. What options have you tried and prefer if I am to source out new pads online anyway. I've got a set of oem on order but the front cost is just triple what it should be for what it is. Gold Fren and galfer both seem to be the only options I've found, any others? Thanks, Jon
  3. Well I got it done and it was a pain in my butt! The throttle body was indeed dirty inside, and I think some of that was from the hose that comes from the head, and some normal combustion back flow mess. It wasn't bad but I didn't expect it to be dirty at all. Check your vent tube to make sure it's not letting unfiltered air in. Thanks for the tips, and if you do undertake this seemingly easy task give yourself at least 2hrs unless you've done it before. I did mine before riding which probably wasn't the smart thing to do. Jon
  4. I've finally kinked up my throttle cable enough to need to replace it. Any tips before I start? I have an oem cable to go into it. Thanks Jon
  5. On the same note, do people open up the top of the air filter insert at all?
  6. I have plenty of grip on my 300rr. I've found the further rearward you can get the pegs the better it is, pretty obvious to me. But it also took me a while to get used to it. I'd say it took me a solid 6 months to get used to the timing differences and delivery of power over my old 2ts. I'll be honest my inexpensive scalvini system helped me get the bike more reactive and seemed like it was tamer which helped with grip. Give it time it's totally capable but different.
  7. Having ridden multiple other 300rr's now I'd say it again the scalvini exhaust is a good way to make my bike more ridable. It seemingly decreases the response time, smooths out the power delivery and also seems to make the bike run cooler (this to me is a very big point. The stock exhaust holds so much heat it's not easy to grab and lift the back end when needed. The scalvini muffler does dissipate the heat way faster and won't burn you unless you touch the head area. It's worth noting you need a full system to make it fit the 300rr, as it is a smaller diameter head pipe designed for the 260. It's lasting well and I'd still recommend it. Jon
  8. The VT2 chain was specifically designed around the Honda motorcycles that couldn't fit a wider O-ring chain. So the VT2 is the exact same width as a non sealed chain. I use the same one on all of my bikes including my 300rr. It has less than the average rolling resistance for a sealed chain and is the kind of chain that you adjust once in the lifetime of the chain and just never think about it again. I've felt multiple non sealed chains that have more rolling resistance than the VT2. Jon
  9. There is no one way check valve on the main shim stack so what your adjuster is doing is opening a Bleed hole which happens to Bleed in both directions. Once the Bleed is clogged up the shims take over, there are way more shims on the rebound side than the compression side so that's why it seems to affect one more than the other. It's a normal arrangement in an adjustable shock. Race cars have tried check valves to isolate the forces with very little success. It becomes noisy and friction ridden. Being aware of it is your best defense.
  10. Hopefully someone has a pair of csp or future ones who can compare hole centre differences. Om guessing there's only so much space to work with so they really can't be terribly different from stock. But the vmar was a noticeable enough difference to say it improved handling and smashing of feet.
  11. I rode a bike with the v Mar linkage plates and I really liked what it did for the handling. I did some internet research and see some csp, future and also h+d's own version of the vmar ones. Has anyone compared all 4? Are they dimensionally the same? Same materials? Then for footpeg holders, are the csp and future trial ones dimensionally the same or does one position the pegs further back? I've got a 2017 300rr. Thanks, Jon
  12. Since I can't say for certain what jetting this bike has in it, can someone spell out what stock is meant to be as a baseline for me to start with? I agree, it shouldn't run the way it does, so it's probably been adjusted or something is clogged. Jon
  13. Hi there, I'm working on a beta for a friend and it is needs lots of work but from my limited time riding it, it is really didn't feel jetted properly. Has anyone dialed in and noted their settings? It'll likely be used from sea level to 2500ft most of the time. I'm sure I could make it better than it is but wanted some guidance. And yes, I did try the search function with no clear result. Thanks!
  14. On the same topic, I'm a guy who has rebuilt alot of shocks in my life, but I haven't opened up my showa yet. Before I do, are there any tips? I suspect the larger diameter bottom has a dual sealed floating piston? Or is it a different arrangement? I'm thinking I could do a quick service on it if it's a floating piston rather than a bladder of some kind. Jon
  15. jmutiger

    4rt wont start

    Why are you pressing the kill switch at all when trying to start it?
  16. I've got one on my 300rr. They don't imply that it fits but it does. However you have to use the supplied headpipe as it's a different diameter in the rear than the stock 300rr pipe. I was skeptical at going to the smaller pipe but I'll admit it has made my bike much easier to ride now. I find it's smoother and more predictable timing wise. I'd do it again. However I'm sure it has robbed the bike of some snap, but it's rounded out the power which offsets the loss IMHO.
  17. I move the pegs back on every bike, as it achieves exactly what your trying to get, a lighter feeling front end. I like the S3 steel pegs with the 10mm offset rearward. I have found that on my 300rr with the rearward pegs my kickstart lever does snag annoyingly on the right peg.
  18. It's a fight to get the clip off to remove the retainer. Getting it back together isn't nearly as hard. I did it but wasn't sure I'd be able to without some kind of spring compression device.
  19. Look up the Zeta brand of levers. They show some that fit other trials bike as and only require a small modification to the bushing (shortening it by maybe 2mm). They have a very nice feel and are durable.
  20. Looks like a top out spring with a glorified washer. Basically it would be quieter than something harder when pulled into the top out position but obviously it isn't durable enough to hold up. You could try some PVC cut to fit. It's thickness isn't horribly critical, it just keeps the spring end from cutting up whatever it's hitting essentially.
  21. While I'm sure Jack is a great guy, we're not comparing apples to apples. Your Jitsie carbon guards look like carbon but are plastic. The ones I posted a pic of are actually carbon fibre.
  22. I'd say you have too much fluid and nowhere for it to expand to as it heats up. And potentially a master cylinder that is being restricted so fluidly can't back flow to the resivoir properly. Fluid gets hot as it is used and expands when hot.. So it has to be able to go somewhere. It's a sealed system.
  23. jmutiger

    Stalls

    That fuel filter membrane material is also sold by twin-air as a pre filter material for air filters, and the same material is sold pre molded as a fuel filter sock that sits inside the tank filler lip for ktm bikes. I wouldn't cut the material as it'll fray, but if you could attach the sock to the pump it'd be effective. The problem would be sealing the end.
  24. I'm running Maxima MX530 in both my engine and transmission, and it feels very good to me. I've previously run this oil on my snowbike which had a turbo on it and fully trust this oil beyond all other oils to do what it's supposed to do all the time. I even had a turbo oil return line come off and kept riding not knowing, 4hrs later the engine survived with 300ml of 1.7l left. I'm sold that their additives are by far the most protective and I really like the clutch feel in all the bikes I've used it in. Used oil analysis shows more additives in used samples than new samples from other manufacturers by a long shot too. A website called "bob is the oil guy" has more info on what goes into oils than most people would ever care to know. But if you make an informed decision on what oil type / brand / weight it's a smarter choice than just using what ever more people choose which is highly influenced by price in my experience.
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