gt32

I'm likin that, looks moody.

Evenin all. Does anyone know where I can pick up a cheap C spanner (for my rear shock)? I've checked the websites for both Halfords and Machine Mart but they dont seem to stock them. I could have sworn I have seen them somewhere? I can get one off ebay but wanted to get the spring swopped on Sunday and dont fancy waiting. Thanks in advance!

I'd just go for something cheap. I returned from quite a long break (although not as long as yours) for a laugh rather than a competition perspective and even my '93 Gas Gas is a more competitive bike then I'll never need and a world away from the Yam twin shock I used to ride. I'd say second hand Gassers are no worse than any other bike and as long as it's been maintained properly, will be a great bike for you. If you can find something from around 2000/2002 for a good price you counld do a lot worse and the difference from a machine from 30 years ago will be massive!

As far as I know you dont need a bike licence to insure a bike. I got quotes for mine from Bennetts etc and I dont have a licence either. Just for info, the quotes I was getting were for around

Evening all. Went to get the bike out at the weekend only to find a big dark patch under the rear end. First thought was that perhaps I'd overdone the chain lube a couple of nights before but, oh dear. Hopping on the bike was like mounting a pogo stick - thats the damper knackered then. Bit odd really as it seems to have broken with no input from me, which is a refreshing change. Shocks are not my forte, but I'm pretty sure that they aint cheap. So question is, anyone know if the seals in the damper can be changed and how involved or costly a job this is? Failing that, any ideas on how much a new shocker for a '93 Contact might be? Any help would be appreciated muchly!! Cheers Incidently, seeing as though I couldnt go out on the bike, I was forced into DIY instead

Hiya Grim, I asked a similar question a few months back about my 93' 327 Contact, and if I remember correctly (cant find the old post) I was advised to use 750ml. If that's the case (others confirm?) then I cant imagine your bottom ends to dissimilar to mine, so you'll be a little over at a litre.

Hi Keta, I'm about the same age and weight as you, and I have recently returned to trials too. I bought a early 90's Gas Gas 327 and whilst it isnt that competitive, it's far better than my level of skill will be for a good while and amazes me what it can do. I actually find the extra ommph a bit of a help as it can get you out of a few scrapes where my skill lets me down. I would say to just get something half decent for now without spending too much cash, any farely recent bike will be a good start and remember that the extra stuff, lid, gloves, trailer etc add up to a big pull out. It hurts alot more than it used to when I fall off now - but if anything I enjoy it much more than I ever did. I agree, it is an excellent de-stresser!

The law is only there for those who are willing to be ruled by it. Whilst I dont condone riding on this type of land, the Policeman gave you a warning because you would stand there, accept a telling off and give him no lip! A couple of chavs on a mini moto would have given him the finger and a load of a abuse and many coppers wont go near a traveller site unless they're mob handed.

Found a 'clear' once, seems quite an illusive beastie!

I'm working toward my test at the moment and am gutted to have slipped past the deadline for the additional test elements. I am told that at least the test fee of

Evening all. Sorry to resurrect an old thread again, but after slinging the bike to the back of the garage for nearly a year and trying to forget about the seized brakes, I have finally faced up to it. Seeing as though so many of you offered advice in the first place, I thought you might like to know how it turned out... So, as most people mentioned, started at the easy end first. Removed pads sprayed the rest very liberally with brake cleaner, left over night. Hoped against hope that the brake fairies would have come overnight to fix it all. No joy. Tried brute force to push the pistons in, then swearing...... no joy. Threw a wobbler for a bit, then decided to check out the master cylinder end. Unfortunatly someone had been at the reservour cover before me munched the screw heads up and got The Hulk to tighten them.....que more swearing. Tried the bleed nipple, that made noises that foretold of an expensive snap......more swearing. At this point, I thought it best to seek professional advice, convinced that it was looking to be expensive with either a new caliper (apparently you cant get overhaul kits for Brembo's) or a new master cylinder or both Called into White Bros, wandered over to Alan the trials guru looking very crestfallen, with my battered brakeline in a washing up bowl and asked for his opinion. He kindly stripped the lot down for me to seek a diagonsis and rather than just telling me to replace bits (its quite an old bike) got to the krux of the problem straight away. The master cylinder valve was a huge chunk of rust, which had forced the brakes on and the rest, bleed nipple, caliper pistons etc had all just seized up slightly with underuse. He even managed to extract the mashed up reservour screws. Once he had extracted the valve, inspected the bore (slightly marked but not too bad) fitted a new valve, loosened off the bleed nipple (gas torch) backfilled the system and cleaned the whole lot up for me, he pumped the brakes a few times - click, pistons free!! Overall cost? about

Hi David. Simple solution, but might work. You might want to try getting some bar raisers and changing the angle of your bars too. Depends on how far youre hunched over like! I'm not a mechanical guru, but many others on here will tell you how to go about it if you want to investigate it. Seems a bit of a shame to start hacking the frame about if a cheaper solution will work Mark

Sorry about your bad news. I dont have to mention to keep your eyes peeled on ebay, admag el all for your bike / parts of it. I would say though to keep badgering the local police about it and dont let it drop. If the bike gets recovered by them without ID numbers, they will be hard pressed to find the original keeper. Ask if you can go down and view their seized bikes every so often. This is especially gutting as yours (like most people's off road bikes) isnt insured. It always naffs me off to hear that if a seized bike isnt claimed after a time, it goes back to the toerag with a note saying sorry. (Actual Police may be able to confirm this) I really hopes it turns up and the thieving sh*ts get their just deserts too. I'll keep my eyes open. Mark

Just a note of advice. I notice many on here are mentioning mains powered alarms, please bare a couple of points in mind, especially as many garage / shed alarms (including the simple plug in variety) are aimed directly at bikers as a premium security product. Please bare in mind that mains power is not as dependable as you might think. I aim this especially at owners of quite new houses. Think how the meter man reads your meter and what else is accessable in there! Make sure any mains alarm has a decent battery backup, that is in good condition. This applies equally to domestic alarms. Remember that over time the backup battery starts to become ineffectlve, so get it renewed. I mention this because a good friend of mine got nailed this way and it wasnt until he told me how that I went 'doh!!! It should be noted that many thefts these days take place during the day, when there's no car in front of the garage, kids are at school, suburban streets are very quiet and there's few possible witnesses to crime let alone a bloke putting a bike in a van! There is little subsitute for physical security measures and lots of it. PIR lighting, good garage locks, good anchor points within the garage are all good bets. Also think about what you have in your garage that might assist a thief. Lock away tools that will lend assistance to them, chances are he wont carry his own hacksaw. I can think of nothing more gauling than a crim using your tools to nick your bike. I dont think that I'm giving away too much to a potential thief by mentioning this on here, I think that most of them will know this trick by now. But I am surprised by how many people I mention this to have missed it. I know I had. Luckly I am the inventor on bike thief eating zombies, with rabies and AK47s which now live in my garage. Result.

Hi Pete. Thanks for that. Yes I am used to Jap bikes. This is my first Spanish one. Given that there isnt a dipstick or sight glass, how do you check your oil level? Do you have to just change it quite often to ensure that there's always enough in? Cheers Mark

Right, I know I am not the most experienced mechanic in the world, but are Gas Gas just trying to be difficult? I'm about to change the gear oil on my bike only to find that there is no conventional dip stick, nor a sight glass, nor it appears one of those screw holes that overflows when you've put to much in. What I have is what looks like a large bolt just above the rear brake lever. Now, I've heard of people having to put their bike on its side to put in gear oil, is this right? If so how do you know when its full? In addition, does anyone know how much this bike (93' GT32) takes and what weight to use? Thanks Mark

Evening all. I have the chance to get my hands on a pile of old parts, both engine and chassis from what appears to be a '94 JTX320. Question is, how much of this equipment would be any use on my '93 GT32. I assume that the chassis and bodywork parts are completely different but what about the engine? Surely they would'nt change too much over the one model year? Obviously, these parts could be nothing more than scrap, but with these bikes getting on a bit, might come in handy. Thanks Mark

Just been watching a Jim Snell video on Youtube about clutches (yes I must be bored). Link here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjoj7n74G0s He mentioned a bit about the kickstart return spring having a 'foot' on it that has to fit into a groove in the clutch cover. It occured to me that if you have replaced your clutch cover you my not have seated this foot back into the groove. I think that would account for your kicker not going quite back to vertical with everything else looking okay. I am certainly not a mechanic, but hope this is of some help. Mark

Thanks for the input Guys. Think i'll take the torqued up route then, I would like to avoid the stripped theads and snapped heads if possible. The bike's pretty old too, so it's possible that the fixings may not be in the best of condition anyway. Big thanks to Jon for that chart. I was looking at the prospect at looking all over the net for the different settings but you've saved me a job there. Your sheet covers the settings for all of the jobs that I'm starting with, brakes, coolant and gear oil (servicing jobs first) so even better. Mark

For those of you still considering building your own, or for modifying or repairing your existing one, you might like to try here: http://www.trailertek.com/acatalog/Plastic_Mudguards.html Plastic mudguards for 8" wheels for

I would suggest that you make the box trailer just tall enough to accomodate the bike. If I was designing this I would be thinking very carefully about the wind loading / drag effect on the trailer. Reducing the profile will at least make for a reduction in wind loading and the chances of your new box trailer lifting / exploding and taking your bike with it. Another option would be to taper the front to aid aerodynamics. I would be looking for a scrapped luton van or similar to butcher some bits off. I think marine ply would be good for sides and tail, then I would try to utilise the van bits for the front and roof. The advantage being that the van bits should be aerodynamicaly formed and nice and light. You'd want to keep that weight off the roof if possible to lower the C of G. Sorry the long post, I love things like this.

Hi all. As someone just really starting to get their hands dirty on the mechanical side, I was wondering how many of you bother using a torque wrench to put stuff back together? Do you see it as important or is 'tight' enough. Failing that do you work to standard torque settings when working on any bike? If so, setting do you work to? Why? I dont have access to any type of manual, so if I need torque settings I'm stuck. Is that a problem? Cheers Mark

JSE - thanks for that link, that's just become my favorite bedtime reading . At least I'll have some idea about what I am going to see before I open bits up. (or what that left over nut should be attached to!) t-shock: thanks for the heads up, that's the sort of info' that comes in really handy. You cant beat experience, something im lacking a bit of on the mechanical side. PeterB - You seem to know every Gas Gas inside out, I'm amazed. I'll just be working my way through addressing problems as they arise. I've been neglecting her a bit since other priorities have come along and I've promised myself to give her some TLC. She seems to have lost alot of coolant which is my hint that I may have to strip it back, but I may be overreacting - time will tell. Thanks for your insights Pete, you ought to set up a technical helpline! Thanks agian gentlemen, if anymore spring to mind, pass them along, your advice is gratefully received. Mark

Hello all. I am just about to start full overhaul of my aging gasser and being of limited mechanical knowledge anyway, thought it might be wise to see if there's any information floating around. Does anyone know of any owner / workshop manuals, either on the net or in print that I might be able to get hold of? Its the 327 GT32 that I am particularly interested in but any information about Gas Gas' from the early 90's would be of great help. In addition, if anyone has any hints or ideas on things I should be looking out for as I go over it, they would be greatly appreciated too. Many thanks. Mark

I owned a TY175 a few years back. I am not totally sure of the model year, 1981 I think, but it did have a one piece tank and seat unit. I remember having real trouble fixing the unit down at the seat end which meant that a big bump got you a whack in the pods for your troubles. You're not missing much!!