gjbiker

No harm in trying? Howz about some thread sealer or PTFE tape as well? GJ

Protect the splines with something (brass is good as its soft but durable) and be GENTLE but persuasive. You really don't want to damage those splines so if it's being stubborn try a little bit of heat and see if that helps? GJ

It'll come with practice mate, we all have to start somewhere. The 'bit' where the water pump keys into is the end of the crankshaft so be very careful not to damage it especially if you use a puller. If you're going to 'pry' gears (or anything else) use wood or some sort of protection under the pry-bar to prevent damaging anything else. Slight pressure on the pry-bar and a GENTLE tap of the gear should be all that's needed to loosen it? Before jumping straight in and attacking with vigour, try looking at what you're working on for a while. Understanding how things work helps greatly in any mechanical project. I made a rather expensive mistake in my youth because I was too eager to remove a crankshaft for a simple bearing change! What should have cost a few pounds ended up costing hundreds! All part of the learning curve! A bit of a contradiction but if you take your time you'll get the job done quicker (and probably cheaper)? GJ

Primary gear should come off the same as the idler? If it's a bit tight you'd be best using a gear puller to save doing any more damage to your gasket faces! What's the Norwegian word for 'finesse' ? GJ

Are you losing coolant as well? More than likely the water pump seal? Plenty threads on this subject if it is. GJ

Save any grief and don't do it tonight, sods law it'll refuse to bleed ! When you do decide to do it, try it normally as you did with the front brake and if you're unlucky enough that it doesn't work then do the reverse bleeding method. As long as you're not disturbing the slave cylinder then you shouldn't have any problems bleeding it the normal way? Enjoy yourself tomorrow and I hope the bleeding goes without a hitch GJ

If you look at the parts page you've linked, item 20 is the primary transmission gear. Is this the one with the damaged teeth/tooths/tooth? This is the gear that slides over the splines on the end of the crank and held in place with a circlip (the splined crank end is also the drive for the water pump and if this part is damaged it's a split and remove crank job). If the primary gear is damaged it's easily replaced. Basically, if any part is damaged or worn looking, replace it. Have you religiously watched all these wmv files? 'Handy Vids' Don't know about parts availability in your country (where do you live and where did you get the new spring?) but all the items you see in the parts manual should be available from somewhere, somehow (unless you need a piston, I've heard they're currently hard to get?). Oh, and go easy with the instant gasket, better still, don't use it. A THIN smear of blue hylomar is normally sufficient. GJ

Good photos (apart from the blurry one). My prognosis is ; Without meaning to offend in any way, I think you may need to get someone with a bit more experience to take a look and help you out here? The fine application of instant gasket is an art in itself As for the broken tooths (teeth?) I reckon a replacement part is the way forward regardless of how much work is involved It's all a learning curve as we all know, but you'll get there in the end I'm sure. GJ

This was BEFORE the spring broke? If so-not sounding good If you've checked and double checked all the aforementioned components then it's looking like a complete strip down to find the source? Wait for some more replies though, there's a wealth of experience on here and some trained ear may diagnose from your wmv clip? GJ

Hi Snerk, Does the sound go away when you disengage the clutch? Is the kickstart return spring located in the correct hole? Is the water pump drive in good condition? Is the water pump working? Are all the thrust washers and bearings on the clutch shaft there and installed in the right order? Does everything look and feel to be in good condition when the clutch casing is off? Was the noise present when the spring broke or only after you'd reassembled with the new spring? With the clutch pulled in does the noise speed up when you rev the engine? If you won the lottery would you go halfs with me? GJ

I would assume you've seen the 'clutch.wmv' and rebuilt your own clutch pack the same way? If not, here's the link - 'Clutchy Linky' Does the 'top hat' piston move without resistance with the clutch casing off? If it does then I reckon the belleville spring would be the main reason for it being so heavy? What was it you replaced? is there any drag when running? Some oils will swell the friction plates but only after some period of time, stick to ATF to be on the safe side. GJ

Quality pics, cheers GJ

No worries Grant, I should be at Lumsden in July if all goes well so why don't you come along and get a feel for it? Don't get too excited about my 'land' ! It's only about an acre but it's set up with enough 'obstacles' to get a good days practice and there is more land locally with good natural terrain that we get permission to use. GJ

Hi Grant and welcome to trials. Why wait until next year? Probably a bit late for todays trial at Boutrie near Inverurie but I'm sure you could manage to go to one of the next ones in July or August? Visit the Bon Accord Club website for more info; 'Clicky here' If you (or anyone else) have transport and fancy a day away I have a small bit of practice land available up near Keith? Anyhooz, hope to see you around, stick in and have fun GJ

Have a look here..... Clicky Linky for bike racks. GJ

Welcome to the wonderful world of trials bowershall, you'll find out all you need to know by searching the threads but here's some basics to get you going....... 280 gasser is great but is a bit of a handfull for learning on - suggest taming it down with a flywheel weight and a slow action throttle? Oil ratio is 50:1 in the GG owners manual, I run mine at 60:1 (old school) but the majority run at 80:1 Tyre pressures vary depending on surface, weather etc but 4psi in the rear and 7 psi in the front will get you started. Suspension settings depend on many factors - your weight, the condition of the suspension units (old or new) etc. Suggest setting them in the middle and tweaking up or down until you find what feels right for you? MOST IMPORTANTLY - Have fun GJ

Tuesday looks good, must remember to pack the factor 50 GJ

Welcome to TC and the wonderful world of trials Simon. Follow this link 'Click here' and find the electrics bit about half way down on the right of the page. This should help you recognise what type of system you have (Motoplat, Ducati, Kokusan) so you can connect your kill switch? Hope this helps you? GJ

From sheep to hamsters...........that's it ! No more browsing the Machine Mart pages for tools, I'm going straight to Pets At Home from now on GJ

Thanks for breaking the ice Ralphy Good point about the internals, they could be susceptible to chemical attack from brake fluid? I'm going to ask my neighbour if he has one when I get home and check out the workings. Best not 'borrow' it though or I'll want to test it! His sheep might not be too keen on the taste when I give it back! GJ

104 views so far and nobody has an opinion? C'mon, don't be shy I can handle the abuse Could also be used for filling up the gearbox ? GJ

Have a looky HERE I can only manage Monday to Wednesday and I'm booked in HERE, maybe worth giving them a call for the latter part of the week? Not a million miles from the PF but far enough to shake off the previous nights indulgance! GJ

Thanks Donald, I knew I could rely on you for a reply I was kinda hoping for a bit of positive feedback, buy in bulk and set up a stall at the Fort next week ? "GJ's Miracle Brake Bleeder".... save

Firstly- no more upgrades by the web-host please, trying to remember what I wrote last night has ruined my sunday! Secondly, if you don't know all the jokes about Aberdonians and sheep you might know a few very soon...... Anyhooz, on with the show.... Whilst reading a topic about reverse bleeding a rear brake I went in search of a new syringe to replace my trusty old bicycle pump that I've used very effectively in the past for this very purpose. Good old flea-bay came up with 'Clicky this' (Bicycle pumps are much cheaper?) I already have one of these 'bleeding awful' things but don't rate it for doing motorcycles with. Whilst searching for the afforementioned syringe I discovered this 'Clicky again' and wondered how effective it might be? Rather expensive but it looks like it might work pretty well? Apparently these are used to inject sheep full of mint sauce or something and basically gives a continious flow of fluid when pumped. One end on the bleed nipple and the hose into the container? Would it work? So before I buy one to experiment with I was wondering what the rest of TC's spanner twirling residents thought? Constructive criticism and sheep jokes welcome! GJ

Flippers, snorkel, Speedos and one of those fancy watches that the SBS use ! GJ