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Just point the new owners in the direction of the gas gas section of this forum. They can ask any specific questions they have there and I'm sure they'll get decent help.

Shouldn't need to strip the gearbox. Either you'll be lucky and can get it out without removing the shift shaft or worst case remove clutch and shift shaft.

It took ages to find mine, I actually ended up getting one posted from Australia! Keep searching that web... Or ask if you want me to look up anything specific.

I use 11 and 42 I think. I changed it from 38 rear as I wanted it slower for rocks. Now I use 2nd most of the time and 3rd for the bigger stuff.

Thanks for the advice Jon, I'll give it a try.

Well I'm not going to bother removing anything, its a good point that they wouldn't have sold a bike that pings as standard so something must be amiss. I can't remember the numbers but mine has had a slightly richer main jet and stock idle with a piston replacement at some point. I'm concerned about the possible difference in pistons so I'll get Mr. Birkett to supply an appropriate replacement when I'm ready. First I'll check and de-coke the front pipe, I've checked for leaks on the carb side and I assume the crank seals are good as I don't lose any oil. I cleaned and repacked the silencer recently so that should be ok. I'll check the exhaust gasket when I take the pipe off, could a knackered gasket here cause this kind of pinging/pinking? Has anyone got any tips on de-coking an exhaust? You may consider me a cowboy but the only way I know how is to pour petrol in and set it alight!

I'd get it powder coated. Or chromed

Is anyone else in the UK watching the NATC coverage on Pulse (UK sky Channel 208, 3-4pm and am)? I'm really impressed to have some regular trials on UK TV at last! Even the Hillclimb and Supermoto keep me amused! I assume you guys across the pond get regular NATC coverage? Just wish it was the same for the British championship! Or maybe it is and I haven't found it yet....... (answers on a postcard please!) Anyways people in the UK - watch Pulse! I figure we have to support regular trials coverage wherever we can get it! Andy - Just realised I may have contrevened the rules on posting with Pulse being a UK specific channel. Apologies and please move if necessary!!

I use JK Hirst for most of my bits and Birketts occasionally. Never had anything less than great service.

Hi, have this same problem with mine and am still looking to solve it fully. I've improved it by moving to a 'Super' unleaded, Tesco 99 ron works well, and adding a bit of Castrol Lead Replacement/Octane boost stuff. The point about modern synthetic oils being 'too good' for an old bike is an interesting one. A friend of mine recently persuaded me to swap to the Silkolene Semi Synthetic from the fully synthetic I was using and it definately seems to have reduced smoke and plug fouling. Still mixing at 50:1 for now but still fouling plugs every few laps (It was once a lap before!). Something I'll find the answer to soon I'm sure! I might try removing the top gasket but does anyone have any recommendations on what to seal it with instead? Thanks. John.

Hi, This link gives dimensions for a Beta Rev 3 but the bikez website has lots of useful info on all kinds of bikes. Should be able to find your bike dimensions on there somewhere. http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/beta_rev_3_270_2006.php Hope this helps, John.

I've been wearing a Paramo jacket which in my opinion beats gortex hands down. I actually sell these things and i could go on and on about the technical differences between their material and goretex, essentially it comes across to the wearer as being a load more breathable and more durable. It works using directional wicking rather than a barrier method. The advantage of this is that it actively moves liquid from the inside of the jacket to the outside as opposed to goretex that will only move moisture vapour. Also gortex requires a pressure differential to push vapour out - ie. it must be zipped up to work and it doesn't work in humid conditions. The Paramo stuff just wicks from inside to out regardless of weather conditions. Waterproofing is undeniably good and the things are lifetime guaranteed. The waterproofing works in such a way that you could literally stick 500 pins in the jacket, remove them, take it outside and it would still be 100% waterproof. The advantage of this is when you fall in that gorse bush you just sew it back together and its all waterproof again! Paramo even offer a very reasonably priced repair service for changing entire panels. This is the reason lots of mountain rescue teams use them. This is the smock i wear in black - Paramo - Velez Smock This isn't supposed to be an advert but if anyone from this forum is interested PM me and I'll see if I can sort out some discount.

I'd be interested in seeing pics of your back end! The bike of course....

What this man said! I work in a boot factory and that is the advice I give to people. I also find that sometimes too much love is as bad as too little! I often get walkers who wax their boots religously and the leather cracks far sooner than boots that aren't cared for as well. I also often use a wax (G-Wax) rather than an oil. The wax tends to sit on top of the leather protecting wheras the oil works its way in. The oil does soften more but who wants to be wearing soft italian loafers when you need protection? I use oil mainly in the breaking in period and then switch to wax. Leather is damn sturdy, the big rule is to never force dry it with a heater or anything.

As a novice to trials myself I couldn't believe the difference a spanking new IRC made to my bike. I didn't notice much of a difference in nice dry conditions but once its raining and the sections are churned up its really helped me out. Edit: To answer the original question - Yes I turned my first Mitas piece of **** and even that made a difference! New IRC kicks its ass though.

On a 20 yr old bike it could easily have been covered when retouched. They would all have been stamped out of the factory. It should be here running vertically; (click to make bigger) The same number should appear on the engine casing on that side too. Hope that helps.

Twinshock or mono? On a mono its stamped on the right hand side of the frame where the forks attach. You'd probably be better asking this in the Yamaha section of this forum though.

haha! I almost smashed the telly when he said "...reving the bike up..." I was thinking yes i can tell that, but what about the fact that more correctly he was cleaning/warming the tyre?

Cheers for pointing this out! Watching at the moment. The commentary however......... I'm wondering if the guy has ever actually ridden a trial!! And if he says "fiasco" one more time.....

This is for a 350 but its mostly the same - TY350 Manual

It seems observers are always a little thin on the ground and i'd like to be able to help out when i can but being fairly new to organised events I'm not quite 100% on the rules. I found this video which seems pretty spot on but its Australian. Would someone be able to take a look (its about 15 mins) and let me know if there are any differences between this and UK rules? Observer Training Video I've also being trying to find a copy of some official UK rules if anyone could point me in the right direction... Thanks!

Mine is very much the same I'm afraid. I think its due to the big heavy flywheel although i'm not 100% I did wonder if it could be running lean so i adjusted the float height. All i got was a black spark plug so I put it back to stock!

I was on the Richmond one this weekend gone and was one of 3 who were around the 30 yr old mark. I didn't feel out of place, just jealous of how good some of the kids on the course are going to be when they get older! Well worth the

I had carpal tunnel syndrome and general rsi symptoms, the advice i was given was to work on stretching the nerves to give them more slack. Imagine a piece of string being held tightly round a series of bends and the friction you would get at the turns and then imagine that same string but with a degree of slack in it. The main excercise which helped me was; 1. Arm outstreched to the side, palm facing forwards 2. Gently while keeping the arm stretched move the palm backwards trying to attain a 90 degree angle against the arm. You will feel the nerves tighten at some point, in my case at about 45 degrees. Repeat with the other arm and repeat on a daily basis. It should loosen the nerves up a treat after a while. My older doctor said to do a similar excercise against a wall to allow you to put more pressure on your hand to stretch it back but my younger physio said not too. Jury is still out on that one.... A search on google will give you a load of other stretches to help with Carpal Tunnel / RSI but this is the one that worked for me.

I ride a TY250 mono! It was the bike of my dreams when i was a nipper and it's nice to keep it a classic up and about drum brakes and all! Would be nice to see more a/c mono classes but given the a/c mono turnout at the last trial i went to i would win as there'd only be me in it! Edit: In reply to OP, as said above we can't ride in twinshock cos we only have one shock