pindie

If you get a trailer you can only do 50mph. Stick with the rack.

I take it that means yes for each leg then.

I used to carry my Honda XR 600 on a rack on the tow hitch of my Astra van. it was no probs. Twice maybe three times the weight of a trials bike?

Mine had both fitted. definitely an original fitment as thread lock and paint marks un broken. Either way it ain't going back on.

Superb! You could also pop a tube in there to make sure it does'nt open up and leak again.

I reckon it is worth all rev 3 owners to whip off the cover and see if one is fitted or not. Any bike that has had a stator repair may have had it removed? Any bike with one on it may be worth taking it off (2 min job with allen key) and comparing the feel. It's worth taking the cover off to see how wet it is inside. It may save your stator rotting out. They rot/rust from the inside out so the outside can look nice and shiny but inside is bad.

Did you find a difference? I thought the bike was ace with it fitted but it now feels the same but with more control. I have heard that if it did not have one from new it may be a euro market model sold here, not that this makes any difference though.

UK models did apparently. Either that or I have removed my whole flywheel?

Just had my stator repaired and during the process I decided to remove the standard fitment flywheel weight when putting it back together. I put the bike together and today went for a spin in the wet. I expected it to be tricky to get traction on slippy climbs and wet grass but it seems to be fine.It is much easier and more responsive to throttle inputs etc and best of all no more shoving you forwards when you back off the throttle. Balancing seems easier as well and I put that down to less inertia pushing the bike around from the flywheel. There appears to be no negatives so far. When wheelying in 3rd or 4th it is also way easier to control it. It has doubled the length of a wheelie for me! 10 minute mod has chnaged my little 200 into an even nicer gem of a machine.

Try getting a second hand one from people breaking up similar bikes that may have had other reasons for no further part in the world as a complete trials bike? It would be a nasty bodge but may get another ride out of it but use liquid metal/araldite to support the cracks? You see if Lumiweld (Google it) or ally welding would work.

Rim in the bin I'm afraid. How old is the bike? It must have seen a fair bit of action for it to be fatigue. Easier to source a spare wheel from breakers to keep cost down. Remeber though you may still have value in the hub and associated components? Ebay session I reckon.

Got to keep the price up to keep the shareholders happy

Got to keep the price up to keep the shareholders happy

Good point. I always back of all adjusters etc to minimum before bleeding so I know I have full movement/MC travel for the bleed. If you bleed every six months it is a five minute job to do front and rear brakes.

Do the carb set up mods as it works. It's worth turning the fuel off in the van or garage though for safety sake if nothing else. Nobody likes a fire ball in the house or van!

Superb!

West Country Windings now do a new replacement part for this type of failure if your bike is out of warranty.

If you are really stuck mole grips work but you need to select each gear by hand.

as long as the splines are the same anything will fit as an emergency. It is probaly just as easy to order the right one online. If you order tonight you will get it saturday morning in the post.

Sounds like you may need to remove the arm unless anyone else has a method. Use a sharp drill bit to then place a small hole in the remains of the bolt and use an extractor. This will all be easier done in a vice. Good luck.

There is a man who can sort the Rev3 (and others including Ohlins) shock! No schrader valves or bodge jobs but a proper strip, new seals, gas & oil just cost me £80.00 all in!!!!!!!! This included a bottom spherical bearing and seals etc. Oh, he also posted it back in this cost as well. Shock works like new now and I don't think it's ever felt as sweet as it does now the whole time I have had the bike. His name - Andy Dawson. His number - 07973 628270 If you need a repair or a freshen up of your shock then give him a call. He is the only person I tried who could do it properly without bodging my shock.

I use the posh and expensive Putoline nano trans as it lasts six months of general riding until the gear selector gets notchy. It still comes out clear after that time as well. It's not expensive when you consider how long it lasts. Also, since using it I have not had any clutch drag/judder/creep etc since on Nano trans. I always use specific filter oil as a 1ltr tin lasts years. I get a thick clear polly bag and put a cap full in an empty bag. Squidge the bag about to coat all interior surfaces. Drop clean and dry filter into the bag and squidge about again to work the thin smear of oil into and over the filter surface. Works a treat and you don't get messy!!!!! I also use a smear of plain grease on the filter mating surface so when it goes into the airbox it seals really well and stops any water getting through.

Good man. One thing to try is to get used to your "new" set up and then tweak it firmer/softer etc and see if it improves further. Always write down what you tweak and by how much. It can help a lot if it goes wrong. Over time I have found that setting things harder than the books settings is better for me. I keep my tire presures around 4 psi and it seems to be ok at providing traction etc. Your tyre works as the very first bit of suspension travel so play with tyre pressure also for the given suspension setting.

The biggest advice is patience patience patience when bleeding stuborn brakes. To get air out of a small pipe you have to think like air in a small pipe!

Practise on worn tyres and learn to roll the throttle on and not just open it to the desired amount. You can then learn to feel for the tyre breaking loose.