pindie

Let the wheelies and looping begin! You will get the hang of it in time. Just take your time to suss the basics.

It'll run fine on 95 UL but just not as nice and crisp. Bearing in mind modern fuels "go off" the benefit of the top end fuels is only valid for about a week. After this it's performance margin trails off. Try to buy your fuels from a busy petrol station that does not have fuel sitting around for weeks. It is all a bit silly really but I think it does make a very small difference in feel to my 200. It is not silky smooth when using naff fuels and oils. If you run race grade UL it is a totally different story but cost is way too much.

Sounds like a way of covering up you have leaky seals to strat with.

Don't be freaked by maintaining it yourself. A few decent tools and allow your self time it is like a big lego kit really. All the advice you could ever want is to be found on here. My regime for my 200 Rev 3 is thus. Pre ride 1. Check tyre pressures. 2. Check nuts and bolts. 3. Oil chain (chain lube or just gear oil dribbled on lightly works fine). 4. Mix up fresh fuel for your ride. I mix 3ltrs of Shell Vpower or Tesco 99 with 16ml oil per litre of petrol. Use any fully synthetic quality oil. Putoline strawberry stuff is as good as any and easily used. Post ride 1. Wash & dry - I ride up the road and hop about for two mins and use the brakes to dry off. 2. If dirty clean air filter. I have three so one is always clean and oiled ready to go on. 3. Make sure fuels turned off! 4. If its been a very wet ride I now remove the plastic engine cover and leave it off till the next ride to dry any moisture out of the stator. Every 2-3 months (depending on use. I ride weekly for 3-6 hours) 1. Change gear box oil if using ATF. Iuse Nano trans which is expensive but it lasts a long time in your gearbox wihtout "going off". 2. Check wheel bearings, brake pads etc 3. Remove throttle tube and clean bar and tube and put back together dry. Every year (or sooner if lots of wet riding) 1. Strip and grease swingarm bushes and suspension joints. 2. Check all nooks and crannies for signs of damage like cracking welds etc. 3. Treat carb to a proper clean with an airline. 4. Bleed brakes and clutch. This is probably more than most bikes get but I don't tend to get breakdowns either. The rest is set up tweaks that you can mess about forever doing. Its the fun of trials! One hours riding = 30 mins of tinkering over a beer. Take it steady for the first few months and see if you can ride with some more experienced riders around to teach you the basics like lever set up and suspension. Look at the on line trials technique vids on You Tube (Ryan Young) and this will also help. Practice low speed tight (on full lock) turns. Riding over a telgraph pole sized log or rock and generally get the feel for how it all works. If still too much get a 200! Enjoy!

Kickers are pricey as there cast from one piece of alloy for strength. I know this sounds messy but it works well and that is to dab a bit of liquid gasket on the saft splines and the bolt thread. They never vibe loose then. If the bolt did manage to pop out then it is still help on belt the liquid gasket on the splines - apply sparingly though. Are you sure you can't take the old seals down to a seal and bearing shop to match them up? One thing you will get if you get the kit is spares for other bits so if you go this route re build everything. Once ones gone the others are never far behind - piece of mind then.

Use waterproof grease such as Silkolen R2 when you re build. Sounds weird I know but normal grease just goes milky and does not work unless you re grease really regular.

The caps need to seal well as the low prsssure sometimes does not shut the valve properly.

+1. 200's are not slow, weak or gutless. They are just simple to ride all day. So much so I often wonder what people find hard on some things. Then I try their 250/270/280/300 and see why! Needless to say I get my 200 back and zoom up/over the obstacle and start giggling! (when I don't cock it up myself that is).

Did it have water or coolant in it? I would have thought it would only go bang/pop if it had air in. Did it have enough coolant in?

Yep. Remove the pivot bolt and the actuation rod. Check all moving parts for wear. If its the original and someones not been liberal with grease it will be worn.

I suppose it could pressurise the coolant? Have you searched on hear for it? Or trials bike in general....

I don't suppose you know if it had too much oil in the gear box before do you? I'd go through the obvious first. If it is a seal somewhere they are easy to do. The bash plate is a serious work out and more tricky than the other bits. Check the breathers are not blocked or pinched also. The new seal when the case was fitted could have been fitted badly and the new seal wrecked putting it in. They are delicate and need steady and uniform pressure.

On the 300's you can always run a gear higher which calms things a bit as well. Personally I'd still go 200 and you never need to worry about anything other than your line.

Have you checked the compression? If you rest your hand on the kick start and slowly press down you should find it hard to turn the engine over. If it is fairly easu your rings (possibly barrel as well) are worn. New rings are easy to do if this is the problem. You can get some nasty and gimmicky additives to help check for this (or run a 25-1 mix) to see if it improves but it will be smokey. This would confirm worn rings.

More reason to get a torque wrench. don't cock up threads etc by being a cave man.

My 07 rod sits in a recess but I think he means the pedal end (the back of the bit you press on) is contacting the chain.

Contact a local club and go to an event.

Or water pump pliers? Mole grips? Be careful trying the bend alloy. It can snap without warning. One thing to check is the bolt/bush?mounting hole where the pedal attaches. This can wear and add to your problem.

The movement or floating bit is to allow for heat expansion when hot. Without the movement they would warp. Check they are floating though and not loose!

Excellent work. I've kept seals going for years using this method. I'm glad it works for you. You can still chnage the oil as well by removing the leg, tipping the oil oil out and re filling. Just be careful to measure the oil going back in.

Freshen your TXT up with new linkage, shock bearings etc and slowly work your way round the bike changing all oils and fluids for decent stuff. It'll make a big difference and let you know the bike intimately. Search on here for Andy Dawson as a shock re builder if need be or PM me and I'll give you his number. It's less than £100 and makes the bike a lot nicer to ride. Once fresh it will be time to set all the suspension up properly. Theres loads of set up info on the GG USA web site (and pdf manuals etc). You will get a few years out the bike no problem.

Never fill the void! it will attract *****.

Always rub the threads with a dab of coppa slip also. Torque is king - get a measure for it!

You'll love a 200. I never seem to need any more oomph. I have a mate with a 270 and whilst he gets out of shap on the trail I am gone and he is left to follow me by my A747 scent trail! Don't waste energy - get a 200!