pindie

Very good point. There has to be play at the lever plunger.

Is this thread for real?

That should say "mop up any expanded fluid spillage".

When hot and binding try loosening your master cylinder lid. Remove the rubber diaphragm and mop up and spillage. Now put it all back together. You just have to much fluid for it to expand. If this does not work then try the higher boiling point fluid but check it is suitable for your braking system.

A tip for step 13. Fit a blanking plug into brake line hole. Fill calliper body with fresh fluid and then put both pistons in only just to be held and create a seal. Hold calliper vertical so nipple at the top. Hold a flat steel rule across the partially inserted pistons. Now open the bleed nipple and very slowly use the steel rule to gently press both pistons home squarely. Close the nipple and keep the calliper in this position until fitting the pre filled (with fresh fluid) pipe. All this helps minimise air you have to later bleed out later. Be sure to clean all these filled parts exterior well with brake cleaner before you handle your new pads. Change gloves/wash hands before fitting pads.

I wouldn't panic. Michelin are not likely to stop making one of the best tyres ever made for trials. If they cease making a certain one they will surely have a throughly tested replacement. They aren't daft. These gold tyres sound really interesting. If a set can cost only

Post up some photos or sketches to show your plan. You'll have to come down and ride the seawall soon as well ?

Muc Offs Bike Spray is awesome stuff but needs regular applications (even more than WD40). I have a mate who use the ACF50 juice on his show cars and bike and I know what I will buy next. ACF 50. It's the real deal!

Hi Otis, Are these sileage clamp sides? How long how wide? If there 3-4 ft wide but 8-10ft long you could..... Try an L shape with two at different heights giving you three heights including ground level? Try two together lengthways like a pyramid shape (you could lay one side of your L on top of one end), this would be a nice knife edge to get over? One could be made up as a steeper than 45 degree lengthways ramp up the back of an earth mound, on the opposite downward side stand one vertical but led horizontally as a low splatter wall to hop up onto the mound from ground level? The last you could lay horizontally but at 30-40 degrees as a killer side slope?

I ride on rocky/concrete stuff a lot. Any tyre gets cut up side walls. Just be gentle on the hard stuff.

I have a Rev 3 200. A bit older I know but it is also a wazzer bike. Easy to ride and flatters my naffness. Especially at the end of a long day riding. Good for the last lap of trials!

You lucky spud. Is it an arm ripper or smooth torquey weapon?

Line away has a point there.

Measure oil and air gaps with spring out and legs closed. Extend fully before caps going on.

+1 Get a 1/2 link and it will be right.

Does anyone think they may need more oil in the mix if their main bearings are failing so soon?

Use the proper silencer packing stuff as it is nicer to work with. It's cheap as chips anyway and made for the job.

Tinkering is just as important as riding. If you don't fettle your beast it will give you problems. Next you can strip and grease/renew swingarm bearings etc to keep that bit in good nick too.

Everyone else has it on the wrong side, not Beta?

I'd write to Tor and explain what the final outcome is and that treating customers badly will only end up with him out of business. Dodgy gits only last so long before their market dries up or they annoy someone they really don't want too. I bet this chap at Tor is always spouting off to his mates about how hard it is in his line of work. Things are often a lot easier if you are nice to customers and have a reputation of helpfulness and honesty.

How'd you get on?

The top and bottom shock mounts have spherical fish eye bearings which are made to move around so it is normal for it to look off centre at the top. Wear in these bearings is very common as people don't bother to strip, clean and re grease. Your linkage bearings though are dead/dying. Now is the time to strip it all and fit new top and bottom fish eye bearing to shock (possibly worth a re gas and seals) and then replace all bushes, needle roller bearings and seals in the linkages. Search the bearing part numbers on here and get them from a local bearing specialist. OEM ones are very expensive indeed so avoid unless you have deep pockets. I don't have a linkage on my rev 3 but it cost about £150 all in to get my shock overhauled properly by Andy Dawson (search for him on here) and fit all new bushes and bearings in my shock and swingarm. Bike is superb now. It's worth an annual strip, clean and re grease once done so you don't end up back in the same place. Use Silkolene R2 water proof grease as well.

Fair play that man! Excellent post. Well done you.

And me.

There not called Beta for nothing! They are better full stop. he he. Seriously though I have not tried the Beta 300 but I did have a Raga 300 before my rev3 200 and I much prefer the 200 cos' I'm rubbish and could not handle the 300.